LED replacement for 300W halogen floodlight

I don’t have much experience with bulbs rated for use in wet locations (i.e. where they can get rained on). I do have around 60 PAR20 bulbs outdoors recessed in the eves of my house. Also a dozen or so PAR30’s. I have seen PAR30 and PAR38 bulbs from real makers (Sylvania, Philips, etc) that are now outdoor rated. I have a couple of dual bulb PAR38 motion sensor fixtures that are directly exposed to rain that I would like to put LEDs in. Also a halogen line bulb fixture.

Maybe even those CREE bulbs at Home Depot are outdoor rated… but my tests show they run rather hot indoors. I’d hate to see what they do in the 100+ degree outdoor weather we have here. Yep, it can still be 100 degrees at midnight around here…

haha

I bought one of the 50 watt led floodlights off of ebay for around $45. Put on a telescoping roll-a-round stand to use as a work light when working on cars or motorcycles. It’s bright but no match for the halogens on the house, think the halogens are 400 watt.

A good rule of thumb for EFFECTIVE light output of an incandescent/halogen bulb is 10 lumens per watt. A LED bulb is between 60 and 100 lumens per watt (including driver and optics). A decent/real 50 watt LED should easily beat a 400 watt halogen.

I was thinking of looking for a fixture that i can plug four or five 60W equivalent leds into to simulate a 300W halogen, i got the bulbs from Home Depot on clearance, they are 800 lumens each

Went to see what my extra replacement halogen bulbs were and they were 300 watt. Did a head to head with the 50 watt led and to me the halogen seems brighter. 10 x 300 = 3000 for the halogen, 60 x 50 = 3000 for the led. The led bulb is 5 rows of 10. Of course the reflectors are different so that could be the difference.

Your 50 watt Chinese fixture is probably running 30 watts into a crappy emitter…

My 10 watt fixtures were actually 6 watts and the 20 watt one was around 14 watts. I put a decent Bridgelux LED and 25 watt driver in the 20 watt fixture and it waxes a 300 watt halogen.

I think as the wattage goes up incandescent and halogen lamps get more efficient. At 75-100w range good incan bulb is about 13lm/w. 400w osram halogen bulb rated at 9000lm.

Through some close temperature monitored trial and error, Ive had to resort to a larger copper core heat pipe/forced air CPU heat sink to reliably cool my 100 watt bridgelux emitter (the real thing, not the chinese garbage being discussed) during those hot evenings. On the cooler eves, it can easily cool 2 such emitters. It does demonstrate some of the thought that must go into a properly engineered luminary that wont overheat under the inevitable demanding conditions it will be subjected to. Optimally, the current would be throttled with an option for a thermal sensor, but my driver has no such option. No matter, it only means I have to size my sinks for worst case scenarios while enjoying the longer life a cool running emitter offers over an extended life time.

The key here is EFFECTIVE lumens… what you can out of the bulb/fixture. You lose quite a bit of light in the fixture. The bulb may be 13 lumens/watt. but you are lucky if 10 lumens make it to the edge of the fixture.

Okay, so the 300w fixtures are about 25-30 feet above the ground, and we need them to shine about 50-75 feet out. The 100w fixtures are out about 15 feet up and need to shine 25-35eet.

How much did the led, heatsink and driver cost, FlashPilot? Also, how much work was it to get everything to fit together?

OK, where can we buy the fixtures with the Bridgelux leds.

My emitters are a specialty item at $75ea but have to be ordered in qtys of no less than 12. You probably dont need the high CRI and tint for an outdoor application. If you’re considering building your own, I can get you started on a basic parts list and source through digikey, but you’ll have to design or modify your own fixture, properly ground and heat sink it and make it completely waterproof. As with all of these AC powered projects, if someone gets electrocuted, its your fault.

Down and dirty:
Unless you can find used equipment, I would estimate approximately $90-150 to modify each of your existing housings with quality parts; if you wish to convert them to 100 watt Bridgelux Vero29. You wont save a significant amount with 75-50 watt emitters with projects like these and you can run the 100 watt emitters at lower than full rated power, which will extend their life and still have a lot of lumens. These will be capable of around 10,000 lumens each if ran to spec and far more if overdriven, but can be adjusted through a pot on the driver by removing a plug and inserting a screwdriver. You’ll need to set them up by connecting a DMM inline with a DC output to the emitter so you can dial in the amount of current and brightness you require. If youre meticulous, you’ll need to recheck the current after a few hundred hours of operation because the emitters will break-in and draw more power.

Bridgelux Vero29 Emitters (chose your tint) $30.70ea + shipping

MEANWELL CLG-150-36A 150W Single Output Switching Power CC driver: around $54 plus shipping

You will have to decide if you would like to use active cooling (ie: water resistant fan - about $20 plus a 12 volt water resistant power supply - around $15 plus basic copper core heatsink - $15) or a large 10 - 15 lb deep finned aluminum heat sink. +$30 or more used if you can find them. Remember, proper cooling is paramount to the life of the emitter. If there’s fins or a fan and its outdoors, you’ll need to service it ever so often to keep the bugs from clogging your cooling solution.

Then there is the reflector and choices offered in beam pattern and shape. Check out ledils excellent selection for the Vero29 arrays.
Once you select one you like, google the part number and compare prices. You’ll probably want to combine your orders through digikey since they do such a great job with small orders. For instance, this looks like a good one for indoor use or could be concealed behind a modified housing by removing the integral ledil lens from the front of the reflector… or ordering it without the reflector under a different part#.

As you can see, a properly engineered quality luminaries (not chinese garbage) earns every cent of their high asking price.

Id almost suggest buying the 100W Chinese fixture and swapping emitters and PSU, but I doubt it would come close to sufficiently cooling the emitter. I have 10w-50w aluminum chinese floodlight housings, and they all get quite hot once modified to run to spec and would require a good amount of additional heat sinking to be reliable and provide sufficient cooling for sustained operation. Again, its junk to avoid unless you know how to mod.

Cree also manufacturers high powered emitter arrays, but I dont like the higher DC voltages in which they operate, they can more easily lead to potential electrocution.

That was a lot of typing FalshPilot. If I used my floodlights a lot I would definitely check into building up a Bridgelux fixture, using about 10 minutes a week it’s hard to justify the cost.

I talk, it types… but I wanted to provide a snapshot of what was involved. But I hear you… its a lot to invest if you dont need huge illumination on a continuous basis. Even though Im sitting on 13 complete setups, Im only using one at the moment. It doesnt get dark till 10:15pm where I live, so I rarely use my outdoor lights.

To replace the 300W halogen or metal halide lamps, we need about 50 watt LED. It is because the luminous efficacy of LED is 140 lm/W, while it is 20-30 lm/W for halogen. 50 to 60 watt LED is a good choice to replace your 300 watts lights

in fact, apart from 100 to 300 watt, what are the common power for the LED replacement?