LG LED (similar to XP-G, fits on cree star)

[Cereal_killer]

@djozz

@pommie

So now the question is how hard can the LG H35C1 be pushed J) Cheers David

Thusfar I have always been disappointed by the high current on copper performance of any other led than Cree, or rather, by the absurd out of spec performance of the Cree leds (why do they make them like that?).

Cause this is America. Need I say more.

[Hikelite]

@Cereal_killer

@djozz

@pommie

So now the question is how hard can the LG H35C1 be pushed J) Cheers David

Thusfar I have always been disappointed by the high current on copper performance of any other led than Cree, or rather, by the absurd out of spec performance of the Cree leds (*why do they make them like that*?).

Cause this is America. Need I say more.

Yeah, but CREE LEDs are made in China.

[Cereal_killer]

Yea but they’re R&D’d here and CREE is HQ’d here.

[Jayzed]

I bought a quantity of the Ultrafire S5s to gift to family and friends, and thought i would try some of these LG leds.

All are using the original 5 mode drivers and similar batteries and original reflector and centering ring. Have not measured currents yet.
Left is the original VERY cold temp xp-e that came in the S5. Middle is these LG leds. Right is a dedomed xp-g2 1A.
Photo makes the LG leds look poor but in reality it is actually not too bad. I will use these in all the S5s for gifting.
For the price they are ok for gifting.
I hate the cold xp-e. May have to dedome one to see if that helps.

[Otanacious]

@Jayzed

I bought a quantity of the “Ultrafire S5s”:Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com to gift to family and friends, and thought i would try some of these LG leds. !http://i61.tinypic.com/2hyx5qc.jpg! All are using the original 5 mode drivers and similar batteries and original reflector and centering ring. Have not measured currents yet. Left is the original VERY cold temp xp-e that came in the S5. Middle is these LG leds. Right is a dedomed xp-g2 1A. Photo makes the LG leds look poor but in reality it is actually not too bad. I will use these in all the S5s for gifting. For the price they are ok for gifting. I hate the cold xp-e. May have to dedome one to see if that helps.

Wanna try dedoming the LG for us? :cool:

[Otanacious]

I got my 5 pack of the 6500K the other week, didn't decide to use them until now. Reflowed one onto a cheapy 20mm copper MCPCB and threw it onto a Convoy C8 that had an XM-L2 T6-3B and 9*7135 105c. That setup pulled 3A or so, but the LG only pulled 2.25! Both on fresh cells!

Here's a wall shot, L is XP-G2 R5-1A, R is the LG LEMWA-FX. I'm going to leave the emitter in for another day and eventually go to my night spot to do some distance shots.

In person the tint leans towards the more neutral side than cool. Hopefully the distance shots can illustrate that.

[luminarium_iaculator]

Interesting thread. It is good to know that there can be good cree alternatives. Osram leds could be also good one.

[power911]

I was gonna open a new thread to ask around what LEDs they use in their Ikea Jansjo lights

I guess I got my answer thanks to this thread.

The warmth of these yellow is much more pleasing to look at compared to my XML2 U2 4C

They have less greens or purples and its more close to an incan yellow

[Ervin_Anastasi]

@djozz

@pommie

So now the question is how hard can the LG H35C1 be pushed J) Cheers David

Thusfar I have always been disappointed by the high current on copper performance of any other led than Cree, or rather, by the absurd out of spec performance of the Cree leds (why do they make them like that?).

its specifically this part that make me love this leds.
from an engineering point of view this behavior when we overdrive this led just show how “healthy” this type of led are. they looks that have been engineered and build-ed without compromise. generally when you project something and load it 100% and estimate an life for this product like 2 years, the leas you load it the longer the life expectation would be. it can be easy understand why this type of led in a lot of occasion are given with life warranty.
i really hope cree do not change this gold standard they have… but others lv up their game.

[Otanacious]

I tested the FX variant of the H35C1 and its taking in less amps, presumably because of a higher vF? Tested on fresh UR18650FMs, int. resistance reading from my Lii-260 was ~50-60mR.

Also some beamshots at my night spot. Last pic shows the 6500K H35C1 more towards the NW than the XP-G2 R5-1A

http://imgur.com/a/qNo0x/embed#0

And a blurry die profile pic.

and a messy reflow picture :tongue:

I have to say the tint is wonderful on this emitter!

[Halo]

Great side by side numbers and pics!

[3Tronics]

FYI- these LG emitters can not be de domed, the phospher ‘layer’ WILL almost peel off with the dome
Unless you want a blue colour emitter - which actually looks pretty good!

[Halo]

Gas dedome?

[3Tronics]

Same result

[Halo]

Thanks

[vex_zg]

5 minutes worth of testing:

2A seems like the max reasonable current to drive these, around 2A the tint starts to shift to blue, and around 2.2-2.5A lumen output increase goes towards 0. This was done while the star was attached to massive CPU heatsink.

I like the tint, it’s similar to 5D3. Warmer than 4C, cooler than 7C.

[Otanacious]

@vex_zg

5 minutes worth of testing: 2A seems like the max reasonable current to drive these, around 2A the tint starts to shift to blue, and around 2.2-2.5A lumen output increase goes towards 0. This was done while the star was attached to massive CPU heatsink. I like the tint, it’s similar to 5D3. Warmer than 4C, cooler than 7C.

Is that on the stock Alu board? I reflowed my cool white version to a dielectric copper mcpcb and I was able to draw as much as 2.3A (UR18650FM) without having the blue smoke of doom. That being said I couldn't go above 2.3A most likely due to a high vF. I still haven't measured the vF though so I could be wrong.

[vex_zg]

@Otanacious

@vex_zg

5 minutes worth of testing: 2A seems like the max reasonable current to drive these, around 2A the tint starts to shift to blue, and around 2.2-2.5A lumen output increase goes towards 0. This was done while the star was attached to massive CPU heatsink. I like the tint, it’s similar to 5D3. Warmer than 4C, cooler than 7C.

Is that on the stock Alu board? I reflowed my cool white version to a dielectric copper mcpcb and I was able to draw as much as 2.3A (UR18650FM) without having the blue smoke of doom. That being said I couldn’t go above 2.3A most likely due to a high vF. I still haven’t measured the vF though so I could be wrong.

yes, I did the testing on the stock alu mcpcb. I also could go even to 3A, but as I was increasing current, above cca 2.2-2.5A, further increases started shifting tint to blue, and not increasing brightness. It was like that even when the mcpcb was cool, so I don’t think a copper mcpcb would help.

I was using a lab power supply with separate voltage and current controls.

[The_Lamer]

Succesfully dedomed warm white one from Fasttech.
LG 400LM 3000-3200K Warm White LED Emitter (5-Pack)

Dedome was done in two steps:

1. mechanical dedome by scalpel and 3 utility knife blades as height mask
2. Keeping LED in Toluene overnight and then removing silicone fragments manually by needle. Periodically splashing Led with Toluene if dries.

As you can see on below pictures, tint shift is significant, but slightly less shift to green, as in corresponding Cree ones (original LED was slightly greenish and didn’t become angry greenish after dedome.)
Overall brightness slightly dropped, seen on photo, but almost not detectable by eye.
Also you can clearly see a cross on die. Wiring? Or die contains two pairs of different rectangle dies?…

[Otanacious]

nice :smile: