Light Recommendations for Underground Use, 6hrs Runtime

Very interesting thread here. While I love the A6, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve handed it to a non-flashaholics and had them start tapping away at the button ending up in strobe or some other mode that is “hidden” within a few seconds. Then they look at me like “what’s wrong with your flashlight?”. For me the UI is perfect but newcomers can easily get confused, holding the button too long, reversing, etc. In a situation like this where it sounds like these need to be given to a group of “muggles” I think any form of mode memory would be a mistake. Particularly in cave work I would want my light to start in moon or the lowest possible setting every time, with no chance for error. Messing up your dark adjusted vision if working in a cave is unacceptable. My first thought was something like the A6 or something in the Convoy S series but in this particular circumstance mode memory would be a deal breaker at least in stock form. Depending on how many are needed I think Richard at Mountain Electronics could build perfect lights for these circumstances because of his wide range of driver options and consistently high quality (reliable) custom builds. That said, if you need a lot of them you may be waiting a while. Busy guy right there.

Edit:
If I were working underground I would never have less than 3 lights on me. Headlamp, a hand torch with high output available if needed and a AAA sized light that disappears in your pocket for those times when other options fail.

Honestly in this circumstance I would rule out the A6 simply based on the thread quality. The threads are too fine and not what I would consider durable. Far too much chance for cross threading and killing the light under dusty/gritty work circumstances. Sounds like these lights would have to be recharged almost daily and though I love the A6 for the achievement it is, I would not count on it where light=life. The A6 is an achievement in high lumen output from a tube light and an excellent user-programmable UI. That same UI while great for us may be too complicated for the “average Joe”.

Thanks J-Dub74! Sounds like you’re right on the money. I’d only need a couple of each light (to outfit either 2 or 3 guys - each with headlight & flashlight). These guys work underground sporadically, but at least twice a year they are busy u-gnd for a couple weeks at a time. We have 2 to 3 new mines which will start operations meaning they will be u-gnd even more. So no, these won’t get used everyday, but when they are in use it will be daily for a few weeks at a time.

I can build S2’s with a custom driver, but my issue is the “2 mode without memory” setting in guppydrv is at 10% - 100% instead of 35% - 100. Then again I could setup enough 7135’s so that 10 is the 6hr runtime mode and 100% is a huge turbo boost (guess that would work). So a Convoy S-series would be better for me to customize than an A6 I take it?

One thought I had was that the headlamp really should be very floody (or at least flood->throw adjustable). The rod guy is frequently up in a lift at the ceiling (close enough to reach to the ceiling) trying to drill and hang “spads”. A bright hotspot type of headlamp could be distracting compared to a wider more even flood. Then again, there are times when they are carrying equipment (read: can’t hold a flashlight due to hands being full) and want some throw as they are walking.

Like I said before, I don’t know how the heck they are working with the crap pencil beam lights they have right now!

-Garry

The Convoy lights I know I can build rather quick (with someone else flashing drivers if I so choose). I don’t expect to need to fix them.

-Garry

The big difference with the A6 is the FET for a higher Max for a light that you want to use for 6 hours constantly a linear driver with a lower max could be better. The stock drivers in the Convoys are 105d’s they have an ATTiny 13a also so they are easily reprogrammable. If you want to build from hosts Richard at Mountian Electronics will sell you drivers pre flashed with custom firmware.

JonnyC’s STAR firmware can easily and quickly accommodate 2-mode w/ no memory. Those options would be setup before compiling and then flashed onto the driver. RMM can certainly flash that for you or you can build and flash it yourself using this procedure: Hoop - Guide: how to flash a NANJG / Qlite driver with custom firmware

If for some reason you wanted a high-output / wow mode it would be fairly straightforward to make that awkward to use continuously. A 60s turbo-timer with a stepdown to the normal “high” mode would discourage continuous “wow mode” use while still allowing large galleries to be fully illuminated for brief periods. If a person was so inclined they could take that one step further with turbo ramp-down. It’s surprisingly difficult to notice the rampdown in action if setup well.

In any case I’d use the offtime firmware along with an offtime cap. It’s much nicer, including with “no memory”.

Spare cells sounds logical to me.

10–100 Might be 6 hours run time depending on how long 100% is used. Heather tried that mode while walking the dog. She said the 10% was too bright for ground in front of her.

I use 50ish lumens from my Armytek Wizard most of the time while hiking or dog walking. I go brighter when I go faster.

The darker it is the brigher your lights will be :slight_smile:

I agree, a little edc keychain light for backup (although I personally am Joe overkill on back up) and an old knife pouch or camera pouch on the belt for a couple or few extra batteries.

One would hopefully want a few extras anyway, and switching batteries is no big deal.

Guys finished up a day early and so I got some feedback from the crew chief. Seems the other two assistants really like the two flood-to-throw zoom lights I lent him (my W-878 & my Zuesray - both direct-drive on high and cool white, completely stock). Chief wasn’t certain why they preferred those two, but they definitely did. The Zuesray was preferred due to it’s thinner size making it easier to pocket carry. Holster would be very tough to wear due to the fact that they are already wearing very thick mine belts (think WWE wrestling championship belts) making it tough to access their pockets or pants belt.

Some more observations/feedback:

1) Nobody commented on cool-white vs. neutral white. Don’t care which they get, just so they are bright.
2) Flashlight does NOT need to run 6 hours. They were using my zoom lights on a single cell and they always lasted the full day. (They are only using the handheld flashlights for a couple minutes at a time to light up the rod when the instrument person is taking sights.)
3) Headlamp needs to last 10 hours runtime. This is their worst-case scenario. Current headlamps are meeting this requirement and nobody is complaining about either the pencil beam cap lamps or the Princeton Tec Apex.
4) My Mule Headlamp was way too floody and not enough output, even for the instrument guy lighting up just his immediate area. Each crew members desires some throw with bright spill, although none of them are complaining about the current pencil beam cap lamps. We may pursue just flashlights for now (4 of them), and maybe 1 headlamp to try out.
5) Cabling on a headlamp is not a big deal so long as it’s clipped down. It has not been an issue on the Princeton Apex light.
6) Headlamp for assistants need to be mounted rock solid. Headlamps with headbands (like the Apex) tend to fall off the hard hat while swinging a pick or sledgehammer. (I threw out the possibility of using velcro to hold the band in place better.) Current cap lamps clip in and withstand the thrashing they get while swinging tools. If we get new headlamps they may need some sort of “clip mount” fashioned. OR - can the rubber mounting like the Xtar Warboy H3 has be attached to the hardhat’s current clip point fairly permanently?
7) Like the FastTech flashlight clamps, though unsure how long they’ll take abuse. (And I see they are discontinued now!)
8) Nitecore i4 charger charging 4 cells (375mA) was WAY too slow.

Output & Modes Desired for 4 lights (3 carried on each person, 1 left at instrument tripod on a mount of some sort like the flashlight clamp):

NOTE: Gauged output based on my Convoy S2, XM-L T6 4C @ 2.1A 3-mode 5% (110mA) -> 40% (870mA) -> 100% (2,100mA) (I just confirmed these #’s)

1) For the 3 lights carried: Two modes, no memory, always starts in high. No “turbo-timer” wanted.
2) For the 1 light used at the instrument tripod: Two modes, no memory, always starts in low. No “turbo-timer” wanted. The “high” will be more of a “medium”, the max level which can be ran continuous for 8 hours (i.e. get a full day of actual use in case instrument guy never bothers to drop it to low to conserve battery, same reason no “high” mode - no accidental running the battery down too quick). Instrument light should be easily distinguishable from the other lights since it has different output.
3) “Low” should be a little higher than my S2’s “low”, but a little lower than my S2’s “medium” - somewhere in the middle.
4) “High” should be “max” (for the 3 hand carried lights, see #2 above for instrument light). I figure it should be toned down to a level the light’s heatsinking can handle reasonably well. So definitely not “direct-drive”, not 4.0A, but perhaps 2.8A or 2.1A etc . . .

Observations about the use of the Apex headlamp:

- High (the maxbright setting) of 275 lumens has only been used for checking roof quality, but really isn’t bright enough.

- Typical all-day setting of this light is the 5mm LEDs on their low setting. Too bright a setting causes too much glare. (I would have expected my Mule to be pretty good here, but it wasn’t liked.)

  • Apex’s “5mm low” looks like a similar level to my S2 on low (side by side on the wall).

Thoughts:
I could go back to AA options, maybe and forget lithium ion entirely, especially since we threw out the need for 6hr runtime on the handheld lights. Max brightness would likely come down a little from what they experienced though.

If I go lithium-ion, I’d need a good safe reliable inexpensive 4 bay charger that charges at least at 500mA, 1000mA preferred. I’d get them whatever is the best bang for the buck protected 3000mAh+ 18650’s - likely the LG M1’s or NCR18650GA’s, although the 3400mAh Panny’s have come way down in price too.

Since they really like the zoom lights, which zoom light is a good solid reliable choice (easily modded with driver / emitter combo desired)? I mentioned I might just change to the Convoy S2, perhaps with diffusion film on the lens, since I can buy they ready to go without any modding needed by me. I lean toward the S2.

Might give 1 Xtar Warboy H3 a try since it has some throw to it.

-Garry

Hi Garry!

Just a reminder that if the best ones you can find are too spotty, there was someone here at BLF that was selling small quantities of that film (I forget what it’s called) that diffuses the beam. I put that on one of my Rayovac 3xAA lights and it really smoothed out the beam, and it’s been on since then.

If nothing else I do recommend looking at HKJ’s conclusions. There are certain actions I typically want to specifically caution the user(s) about… with these or any other charger.

This material is “DC Fix Sand”. Phaserburn’s Diffusion Film - DC Fix - BLF Service & Int’l Shipping

Boaz was at cost sharing the diffuser material.

Yeah I have most of a sheet of DC Fix. Last time u-gnd I put glad press-n-seal on my assistants spotty headlamp smd that worked quite well.

-Garry

Update - spoke with another u-gnd crew member (the instrument operator). Turns out he REALLY liked my Convoy M1 (3.0A, XM-L2 T6 4C, guppydrv 2-mode, high-low, no memory), so much so that he’s interested in purchasing one personally. He also commented that he noticed the difference between the cool whites and the neutral white and definitely preferred the neutral white.

Also had a co-worker bring in his Fenix HL55 NW headlamp. They like it and the beam pattern & modes seems to fit what they want. It’s rated 10hrs on medium mode (rated 165 lumens) and feels nice and rugged.

So I’ll likely get (1) Convoy M1 NW (5C1 tint) 3.04A for the instrument setup, 2 mode at levels 100–15, no memory (guppydrv f/w does this already), and (3) Convoy S2’s with the low boosted a bit, maybe around 25% to 35%, with high being about 2.66A (1 AMC chip removed from the 3.04A driver).

-Garry

Sounds like a good plan. “No memory” can be really nice.

Sharpie, I understand your thinking that it’s a bit puzzling. I think it’s going around and around because Garry is in an awkward situation as he is a flashlight enthusiast who just happens to work I caves where flashlights are needed most yet ironically the importance of “which flashlight” to use is overlooked. If the situation is such he probably also has limited time to comment here.

That said, I have a few comments on Garry’s feedback.

As for using headlamps for checking roof quality I think that’s just a bad idea. Headlamps need to be more flood based and if you’re looking for cracks you need to hit that with something handheld with more power than would be ideal for a headlamp.

As for chargers, Wight was steering you towards Xtar which I wholeheartedly agree with.

Nobody new to high-powered lights cares about cool-white. They are simply dazzled by lumens. I was too. Given a bit of experience with each a neutral tint may prove more helpful as you are seeing a more accurate image (higher CRI).

The love of “zoomies” is impossible to avoid in people new to modern LED flashlights so the Zeusray love is not surprising. There are a few important things to note here. One is that stock Zeusray lights are not that reliable. They had a lot of promise but dropped the ball in QC. The other thing is that the value of “zoomie” lights is quite underrated particularly as work lights IMHO. I know several people that do inspection type work and the ability to go from flood to a pinpoint location beam with one light is very valuable to them. The “zoomie” market starts at $3 SK-68 clones and hits a wall at under $15 without any big improvement in quality then it seems to jump into the $50 and up range for a quality “zoomie”. A possible exception is the Coast HP1. If the budget is tight the Coast HP1 seems much more reliable than the SK-68 clones and is much brighter on standard AA alkalines. It has a wider flood too. The only downside is that due to its design it only works well at full flood or pinpoint. While zooming in the mid-range you will see a black hole in the center of the beam. Still, at around $10 it seems much better in build quality than anything in that price range.

At the power levels you mention you may want to look at the Convoy M2 over the M1. It still has good throw but it’s not as throwy as the M1, plus it has the stainless bezel to protect the head a bit more if it were dropped. The OP reflector gives it a more uniform beam pattern than the M1 yet it still throws respectably. I have a custom built M2 hitting around 5A in turbo, over 1500 lumens and it handles the heat very well. At more “reasonable” power levels (even stock 2.8A) it still performs very well and I find it a very nice balance between the nice smooth flood of an S2+ and the throw of a C8 type light.

I’ve said enough for now and I’m sure others will chime if they disagree or have better suggestions. I can’t offer any advice in headlamps as I do not yet own one. Several are in my future for sure. :wink:

Thanks J-Dub for sticking up for me and for the suggestions. I’ll check out that Coast HP1. I know there were reasons I personally chose the M1 over the M2 and I think it was because the bezel on the M2 reflected light, so the M1 had the cleaner beam. (The M1 uses an OP reflector too.) I do have that Warsun 26650/3xAA zoom light coming. I’ll still mod it and have them try it out. I have to say, I really like the nice even beam from a zoom light on full flood.

I too thought they’d prefer floodier headlamps, but they said no. Of course I’m not going to force them to use what I want them to use (to some degree).

As far as Petzl’s go, I wrote them off earlier because of the models available and price. They had nothing that compared to the Fenix HL55 or Xtar Warboy H3. And I clearly stated how many lights of which type would be purchased. I also have to justify the cost to the supervisors (we’re not a big firm throwing money around, though this expense isn’t bad at all). I have to also justify the cost in light of the fact that they recently bought the “approved/certified cap lamps” (which you’d probably crap a brick if you knew how rediculously expensive they were).

I realize I pretty much came around to answering my own question in this thread. I was really fishing for ideas on lights or other things I might not have realized or confirmation I was on the right track. Originally I thought I’d post up asking about headlamp hosts that would be good to mod into what we wanted, but decided I didn’t have the time to invest in anything time consuming.

Thanks to all; I can update at a later time if we purchase.

-Garry

Please do.

Another suggestion…

Garry, you mentioned using guppydrv. That is a great option to experiment with different mode groups and such. But, once you know what works, you might be better off getting that specific set-up flashed, so that it can’t be changed accidentally (or on purpose).