Unless you want to emphasize a blueish effect, it’s all about the CRI value. It needs to be at least above 90.
Some examples of lights that should do the trick (just remember to choose LEDs with high CRI)
http://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50
If you’re desperate for a flashlight then I can set up a listing for the SP36 Anduril (Samsung version) w/ 3pcs button top 30Q’s.
Otherwise I’d recommend the Astrolux MF01S from banggood. Get the 4000K tint as it’s 95CRI. It’s also over twice as bright with Anduril UI so you can smoothly adjust the lumens to whatever you need.
Grab the coupon on this thread to get a nice discount
If you go for the Astrolux MF01S then I can supply the Samsung 30Q button top batteries which are recommended.
Thanks, plenty of options out there 
I’m liking the look of the SP36 and they sell locally.
Light up a large area. I can always use a diffuser to get the effect I’m after.
You’re almost certainly going to want to diffuse it. The dynamic range of the eye and camera are very different. What looks like a wide even beam (floody) to the eye will still look blow out in the center. Removing the reflector/optics is what we call a “mule”. That will give you nice even light but going everywhere. I wouldn’t use a diffuser made for a flashlight because the spread the light around the flashlight. Putting DC-FIX film on the lens will diffuse the light but still make it directional. I asked about Instagram because I could show examples easier.
Welcome Desmond.
I’m a hobby photographer here too, and have been chasing high CRI for a while. I am finally satisfied. I use these 100w COBs for large area lighting. And a FW3A with SST-20 LEDs for pocket carry lighting. Both have the best CRI_Grades I have ever tested. I love them. They both take amazing photos.
If he’s just starting out with a high output flashlight I wouldn’t recommend the FW3A. I’ve read of people having a lot of issues: LVP not working, misalignment causing shorts, overheating melting optics.etc
The FW3A with SST-20 FA3 bin and Lee 804 is seriously beautiful and better than 219b (IMO). It’s also 4000k and not all of my cameras like that. If I’m using something that only has auto WB the camera can struggle with changing scenes. 5000k and up seems to play better.
It can have issues but once it’s broken in it’s great. I wouldn’t recommend it for videography just because it’s sustainable output is too low.
DM sent.
Perhaps your camera or the CRI of your lights is the problem? 4000k is quite neutral and shouldn’t be an issue in itself.
As for the FW3A, I have never had any issues with mine. I should have mentioned I got mine from Illumn, because they are one only place selling them with the good bin of SST-20. Neal’s Gadgets uses a very green bin. But any flashlight with the good bin should perform the same. I don’t recall the bin name atm.
Neal’s uses FA3 unless something changed. My FW3A from him is beautiful and less green than my other SST-20 samples. 4000k isn’t very natural. I think my camera looks for Sun or Tungsten but something normal occuring. It will correct just fine but with varying conditions it might struggle adjusting on the fly. So going into different situations the WB might fluctuate in the beginning trying to correct. If the camera allows I just use a grey card and lock in a custom balance. If I recall when custom set the SST-20 looks better in video than 219b.
If you’re into modding, nichia e21A (available from BLF member clemence at virence.com) still has the best light quality for high powered leds in my opinion. They’re just a bit fragile. I made a 24xe21A manker mk34 mule for this purpose a while back.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/55484
The mk34 also has a tripod mount and fits nfd60 (for more diffusion and filter insertion).
Me? Yeah I’m into modding. Been thinking about doing a quad S2+ with white reflector and E21a or D4 with 7135 driver and Optisolis. I don’t think it’s practical for me because I’d want a few different lights with it. I think LH351D+Lee is my best bet. My E21a build would be for fun and possibly the 2000k version. I’d really like to see how the cooler high CRI temps do on video thought. I’ve been eyeing up a Folomov too but IDK about the UI/battery options.
I made a quadtix e21A light with 7x7135 driver and I notice its having trouble sustaining even 300 lumens because of the very low vf and the driver heating up. Just something to keep in mind. These leds really shine with buck/boost drivers.
I’ve played with high CCT high cri Leds too since I notice they’re better for differentiating colors when there’s sunlight background. Mix e21A 5000+6500K is my favorite although 219C 5700K from jaxman is also close in terms of tint. The 219b 5500K is noticeably warmer and the output is not that great. Luxeon MZ from LED4power is a hard core led if you want to overdrive. It’s is a little bit yellowish but seems actually closer to sunlight tint compared to the nichias which are rosier. Haven’t tried 351D 5700K yet but would love to get some in the future.
Thanks. I had thought of using an XHP driver with the quad in 4s or 2s2p. I was only doing it for the flat regulation but good to know about the high Vf.
MySP36 arrived today, thanks mr Funtastic 
- quite a beast, a week ago I never knew such torches existed
This weekend I’ll do some tests and post results.
Does that have XPL2 or LH351D LEDs?
unsure