It can use real T12 tip and heat up very quickly, faster than most usual weller or hakko soldering iron which I have used before. The only better iron I have used is very expensive metcal RF soldering iron.
:+1: If I was spending less than $50 that be the brand I would try. I have never owned one but have seen a lot of good praises from people that do.
I had forgot about this one, it was mentioned in another thread here somewhere.
It, surprisingly, works quite well. I’ve been using the same soldering iron for 3 years now, and the tips haven’t failed me… yet.
I do take care of my tips though. I’m always at a conservative 330-360C, use a brass cleaner. shut off the iron the instant I don’t need it anymore, etc.
My most-used iron is nowadays a butane-powered one. Which is also a decent hot-air gun. And very inexpensive.
Though I do own far-far better, for a quick job I just get it out of my travel-toolbox, and crack-on, instead of unpacking my better stuff, which could turn into a 30 minute or 1 hour session before it is all done.
But I do have some experience, and my particular butane iron has delicate responsive controls. The tip is heated by a catalytic process, not a flame. And can go from massive power, to just a trickle, in seconds. But I have to control that myself, rather than rely on electronics. Mine has a little push-button to turn it up and down, as well as a knob to do the basic setting.
Essential accessories: tip cleaner, spare tips in every size don’t be too lazy to change them around, even run two irons for efficiency, good solder (lead free for touching up lead-free joints, and leaded for starting from scratch, in 0.3mm diameter for SMD, flux (inactive, plain rosin, and active, and very active for joints to metal), solder sucker and de-soldering braid. And bottle of 50:50 isopropyl alcohol/DI water, for cleaning with a bristle artist’s paintbrush, then inspection under a high magnification loupe.
That should get you started. Not expensive either. The soldering station investment is by far the biggest, but maybe you don’t need a “station” at all. Just a decent iron (they are still made and work just as well as they always have).
Never liked the “soldering guns” though. Horrible.
I’m also considering new soldering iron / station. Can someone advice on how useful is the hot - air for LEDs reflowing purposes? Does it help much VS. regular soldering iron?
Hot air in the 50-60$ league is not that much better than 60-80W iron, but the heat transfer is without contact so its a lot easier
You can pin the air handle between your legs and have both hands free for holding MCPCB and IR thermometer
The TS100 and TS80 are more capable than their power ratings would suggest. They’re definitely not up to super heavy duty soldering, but I’ve had little problem with soldering thick leads onto MCPCB’s.
As for tips, the TS100 has a much better selection of tips and you can even use Hakko T12 tips using a plastic adapter as well.
That’s what’s different about these irons, each tip has it’s own heating element, so they heat up much quicker. With a 24V power supply, it’ll get to 300C in 12-ish seconds.
Yes TS 100 is more powerful
But for same price you can buy a Hakko compatible KSGER station with 6 hakko clone tips included that needs no extra 24V supply
I just may getting tempted and get started… of having one soldering station. Yeah I’m new though but, I have done it before…5years back during technical college in electronics… could you guys give a nice advice I would be appreciated it. Tq.
Absolutely, for the price there are certainly better irons. Also important to keep in mind the price of the TS100 does not include the power supply either, so another consideration.