Make yourself at home, hardbody!
If you know what amp range of batteries to use in various vapes, then by all means. But I can tell you one thing, specs for vaping batteries can be quite different than flashlights. Hence, should be asking advise on a forum where people will know, so you don’t hurt himself by taking advise from someone who doesn’t
Excellent. Mooch is a good guy, and specializes in vape batteries…
What the hell does that mean ?? Now you can't talk about vaping ?? Who's making up their own rules here ?
I'm not seeing it .
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Maybe vaping isn't fun
Well, we've had threads on vaping before, and they've turned out poorly.
Apparently vaping is controversial and divisive (Rule #3) because some people think vaping is extremely unhealthy, and others don't.
And on BLF, controversial subjects are generally frowned upon. 
...
EDIT:
Mr. Admin has shut down and deleted vaping threads in the past, probably so that people don't get into terrible arguments.
What is the name on this So Called original battery — a pic would of helped
Awesome. For posterity and future searches on this forum would you care to share what he recommended?
Original battery was sold by Orbtronic,
It’s the same as this battery but a button top (used this battery in the link as it has a better picture of the labeling)
He told me “Try getting a button top Molicel M35A or Panasonic NCR18650GA. ”
I do not see a button top Molicel M35A, I do know I can make it a button top with a blob of solder ( have done that before), or by using a small magnet
Interesting. That particular Orbtronic you had must have been pretty grossly “over-labeled” then. The Panasonic and Moli cells are very good, just kind of standard-drain cells, not high drain/high amp at all.
I snooped around and didn’t see a button Moli either. If you really want that cell, rather than trying to alter anything I’d first ask Liion if they will add buttons for you…chances are they will and for cheap. Just email them.
The reason I say this is just because as a vaper, lithium is right up in your face. Soldering is generally not a great idea (which is why everything is spot welded…) but with this application and doing the positive end of a pretty flat flattop cell….not worth it to me. I used to blob cells, lots of people here did or still do, but it’s just a risk and with all the choices these days it’s easier and safer to buy a cell ready to go. As far as risk, I mean best case is that you overheat things and just increase resistance and/or lose a touch of capacity, but it can be worse. And if that blob ever happens to melt or pop off the cell contact, and then short out the contact with the can…hopefully nothing happens fast or when it’s near your face. I wouldn’t recommend a magnet here either…same shorting reason but it also adds resistance, which you want even less than we do in flashlights. 
If you can’t find the button you want, I’d first think about modding the device to accept a flat cell if possible, or getting a different one. Soldering a cell would be last choice, even when done the “right” way. jmho
I didn’t post everything Mooch wrote to me, perhaps this will explain why he recommended those 2 batteries, I gave him the details of my vape setup and he replied with this”
“Hello,
You’re at about 6.4W using 4V with a 2.5 Ω coil so you can use even a 5A battery if you want. ”
I understand the risks of modifying the battery, I will get a button top instead of soldering a blob to the end, I’ve done it before with no problems but why take a chance?
My vape device is no longer made and the type I use is not hard to find in another brand, I have found one other device that lets me set it up the same as the one I use now ( and I have bought 3 of them to have just in case my daily one breaks).
Hardbody, you are not using a lot of amps, any quality cell will be ok.
High drain battery is better for vaping. (safer chemistry)
My recommendation is any of these you can get from a reputable source:
Samsung 30Q
Sony VTC6
LG HG2
These are the most common good vaping cells, 3000mAh and exist in the botton top variant.
Just make sure you get them from a good source, there are lots of fakes/clones of these cells.
Asked an admin about my post in regard to vaping, the reply:
“Hi Tony,
Thanks for asking. Batteries for vaping isn’t a focus or encouraged topic of this forum, but as you correctly mention it’s not prohibited either.
Best regards,
Sb “
I have 2 of the Efest batteries coming, will try them and if they don’t work out for me, I’ll order the Panasonic’s that Mooch recommended.
Question about the Panasonic battery he recommended. I see them listed for sale as Sanyo/Panasonic are those the same as the Panasonic battery he recommended? They have the same item number.
Thank you all.
If the EFEST batteries you bought are 3000mAh and look like this then they just might be re-wrapped Samsung 30Q:
Mooch alludes to them being re-wrapped 30Qs but doesn’t say it outright.
I bought a pair over a year ago and recently bought a 30Q. The weights are the same. They both have the double ring at the top. Both have the same A/C internal resistance.
Also, the discharge charts look almost identical:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Efest%20IMR18650%203000mAh%20(Purple)%202017%20UK.html
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR18650-30Q%203000mAh%20(Pink)%20UK.html
Yes that is the one I ordered
Sounds like you are in good shape.
Now…
We just need to convince you to come to the dark (light) side and get a flashlight or two…or three…or four…
I do have an Atomic Beam flashlight, using an 18650 battery instead of the triple a’s, and I also have a 6 D cell Maglite with an LED bulb conversion.
How long does it take to charge these batteries? The new Efest batteries came today, I have them on my charger for about 30 minutes so far and the meter is still only showing 1 bar? Charger is a Nitecore D2.
It’s all basic electrical formula so it just depends on a couple things. First is the amperage the charger is delivering. A charge rate of 500mA will take twice as long to reach the same state of charge as a charge rate of 1A (1000mA)…more or less. Then you have the starting voltage of the cell when you began charging. It likely arrived at somewhere around 3.5v to 3.8v (that just depends on the seller, storage time and conditions, and on the cell itself, but shipping regulations require that cells are to be shipped at a safe level of discharge somewhere around 50% theoretical). Charging it up fully to 4.2v from a starting level of 3.2v takes a lot longer than from 3.6v. Last is the actual capacity of the cell (3000mAh…true or false…) and the method that the charger uses to terminate the charging process.
So your D2 seems to be a slow fixed rate of 500mA per slot….rough guesstimate would be 2.5 hours give or take. When you go to charge a fully drained cell (this efest) it might be 4 to 5 hours or a tad more. This slow rate is actually good for overall cell life but if you ever wanted to use a faster charger there’s no reason not to (have to look at specs/datasheet but I’m sure that cell is perfectly happy being charged at 1A and likely 2A, possibly higher but then you introduce more heat which can reduce lifespan a little bit).