It’s not such a big deal but still. Depending on how you programmed the light, if you want to start the light in medium mode you have to do a long press but a short press is high mode, so you always get a “flash” of high mode before it goes to medium mode. I hope that makes sense.
Tastes differ , I for one hate a hotspot with a headlight. I just can’t stand it. It all depends on what and why you use the flashlight for. With a headlamp I like as much even distribution of the light as possible, so I don’t have to turn my head too much to when I’m working on something and need to get a screwdriver for example. I find that with a “spotlight” headlamp it’s much harder to see things that are not in the center of my view.
On the other hand, if I need to locate something in the far distance than a hotspot or spotlight is much more appreciated. But for things like that I’d rather have a “handheld” flashlight than a headlamp. I use my headlamps mostly when I’m working on something or doing stuff not really for locating something. I like it a lot that the whole area in front of me is “evenly” illuminated and not just the center of my view.
I think I need to keep looking for more video/photo reviews that show beamshots between the floody and non-floody versions. My current headlamp is a Thrunite TH20, which I like quite a bit. It certainly has a hotspot, but the orange peel reflector smooths that out quite a bit and makes for some decent spill-over flood. I do have a pure flood headlamp (a $6 “COB”), which I really dislike, because even though the thing is quite bright, I never feel like I can see anything all that well, even within a few feet, because the light is spread out all over the place and I can never move my head to concentrate the light on the thing I want to see, because there is no hotspot to concentrate. I understand the the H53F-series does have a diffuse hotspot, but in the videos/photos I’ve seen so far I can’t see it at all, it just looks like 100% flood.
There’s the DC-FIX solution as an option and I’m thinking that may be the way I go.
Is it at all possible and/or easy to simply swap out the optic glass on the H53-series? One clear and one frosted, which would solve my dilemma as I could try both of them out. I thought I read somewhere that ZL’s are not at all friendly to modding.
EDIT: Just heard back from Zebralight, “Lens and switch can’t be replaced by user. ”. But I finally found their return policy, which is very generous. Any light can be returned for refund or exchange within 30 days of receipt of shipment and purchased direct from ZL. I think I’ll just order both!
I want almost exactly the same thing as dekozn, with a lot of focus on weight.
Unfortunately I haven’t seen anything that really competes with the Zebralight AA series. The TH20 that people have mentioned is WAY heavy. Like twice the weight of an 18650 skilhunt H03!
Hello new to the forum and am currently waiting for my zebralight H502 to get back from china it is being repaired. Lasted 5 years of extensive everyday use before what seems like the switch went south.
Can anyone elaborate on what the “dc fix” is?
Also looking for another floody to possibly replace the H502.
Does anyone else make a floody like this?
Looking into the armytek tiara a1 but they dont seem to make a floody.
I want a single AA headlamp and it has to be a floody.
Thanks…. very extensive details… I loved my zebralight… but with armytek offering a 10 year warranty as opposed to zebralights 1 it’s kinda hard to not switch brands.
The spark looks interesting enough will definitely look into that some more.
All the armytek headlamps are floodies if I’m not mistaken. Bought an AT tiara a1pro cause I like the switch placing better. It has a pebbled lens. it’s just about as floody as my zebralight but it has a more pronounced centre, where as the ZL fades more even towards the edges.
Not sure what TIR means exactly but reflector hotspot and spill seem to be 70° 120°….
How is it in close quarters for instance working under the hood of a car at night? Or say navigating a power failure in the house?
Do you find yourself having to point more towards what you’re looking at than with the zebralight?
That’s what I primarily use it for. Also for snowshoeing and cross country skiing, I love that it’s bright enough
for that even without a reflector.
All the armytek headlamps are floodies if I’m not mistaken. Bought an AT tiara a1pro cause I like the switch placing better. It has a pebbled lens. it’s just about as floody as my zebralight but it has a more pronounced centre, where as the ZL fades more even towards the edges.
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Not that I notice. But I still use my ZL more. My AT has problems, I’ve got make a vid for AT but I haven’t yet. (I lost my AT for a week before I got it back and I hate making stupid vids). I also hope I don’t have to send it back to AT…
If you don’t mind the switch placement on the ZL and the stupid UI, I’d say go for ZL. It’s just so damn cute, small and light. The new versions don’t support LiIon batts though AT does. So if you want/need high output on an AA size headlamp go for AT with a 14500 cell.
Ok thanks…. my zebralight is in China as I write…. for $15 US dollars they offered to repair it… 13 or so Canadian more for shipping and it was on it’s way.
It was almost 5 years old… I’m 99% sure its the switch…. still waiting… Sent it first week of august and it arrived September 2nd
1 year warranty seems kinda lame when armytek can offer 10yrs but at least zebralight is still willing to fix for a modest fee
Can you elaborate more on the pre-flashes on Zebralight H53FC? According to Zebralight’s website, on the H53FC, you can start in moonlight by holding the button, and then let it ramp up. You can also get to medium directly by doing a double click. I have the ZL SC600Mk2 and the ramp from low is done the same way, by holding the button. I don’t have any “pre-flashes” or anything like that on the SC600MK2 unless I mess up and don’t hold the button long enough?
If I program the light so that a long click is Mid and short click is High then when I long click I will get a short High before it goes to Mid. Hope this makes sense.
