I ordered 4 of these
uxcell 2 Pcs Aluminum Case Resistor 5W 10K Ohm Wirewound for LED Replacement Converter 5W10KRJ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DL9DWW7/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3F2HEbCG8TMP8
The theory behind that don't really know alpg88, but here's some related information: When a lamp is connected in a series with a capacitor, will the lamp glow? @ Quora
As I see it 4x bulbs of that type should run fine from 120 VAC mains when in series, but the capacitor should be 4x as big.
1 bulb sparked up in parallel 
the 5w resistors didnt let the bulbs start up, may need to test in serial but you hit it on the mail, needed higher startup voltage
You don't want to have the bulbs in parallel, each should have their own ballast. The bulbs when running have a negative temperature coefficient, just like LEDs, but to a much higher degree. This is also why running LEDs in parallel is generally a bad idea, though it's commonly implemented in many flashlights you see here, for a variety of other reasons. Again, you'll want to run these bulbs with AC instead of DC, and with a suitable ballast to avoid overheating and electrode erosion.
FYI for anyone wanting a setup like this at home. You can repurpose an aquarium UVC filter for this. I was able to purchase a kit with the ballast and a single 18 watt bulb for $40 delivered. Suited me well because I’m not confident to wire up my own solution. I paired it with a smart plug and I run it in my bathroom with the door closed and have my smart switch turn on and off with voice command.
But how did you? In parallel with what? Just curious. 
i think he means he had them all in parallel and tried to start it and one worked, but the others did not
which is what i would have guessed, did guess
wle
Aha, wle.
That means the effective startup voltage of the bulbs is only slightly higher than the rated operating 10.5 V. This is exactly what users say in the AliExpress advertisements I posted earlier: ignition happens just below 14 V (for those bulbs).
Some pictures from a user in the first advertisement, he uses a small DIY boxed power supply with a DC/DC CC/CV XL4015 module:
Bulb not yet ignited.
Bulb ignites, supply module operating in constant current mode (notice the color of the indicator led).
Operating bulb, looks like the guy reduced the voltage by hand after ignition (upper potentiometer/trimpot).
trailhunter, did you got 10 KΩ resistors? Wow! No way that's going to work with 10 KΩ. By Ohm's law a 10 KΩ resistor causes a drop of 0.38 A × 10 KΩ = 3800 V at the given rated current for the bulbs. A current limiting resistor should be chosen to limit the current to the bulbs to some value. If for example, I were to feed bulbs with 15 VDC, a 10 Ω resistor would theoretically work fine, dropping 4 V at 0.4 A (bulb seeing ≈11 V), while dropping 1 V at 0.1 A with the bulb seeing ≈14 V and igniting it. Just guesswork, of course.
he said he tried them all in series once, then all in parallel
i said that neither way was likely to work
wle
Decontamination station:
25 buck UVC bulb, $12 lamp, $35 wire shelf, cardboard, aluminum foil, glue, cable ties and about 90 minutes work.
Just a quick question:
I have a Heavy Duty ozonator. Is there any knowledge, is ozone alone enough for sterilizing stuff from this Virus?
what about shadows?
thick layered cloth?
the back side of things?
My understanding ozone is powerful stuff. I have a portable one that pumps a lot out. For small stuff i put in a bag outside with the ozonator and run it for 5 minutes and just let it in the bag awhile. I tell you, feel wayyyy better doing it than doing nothing with stuff.