Looking for li ion charger deals and sales on good quality chargers

[cajampa]

Yeah that do sounds like a good idea, but they are expensive though.

What is the termination current on the iCharger? Because as HKJ’s testing showed, if it is to high, the voltage will just drop a lot as soon as it has stopped charging.

[tatasal]

@cajampa

Yeah that do sounds like a good idea, but they are expensive though.

What is the termination voltage on the iCharger? Because as HKJ’s testing showed, if it is to high, the voltage will just drop a lot as soon as it has stopped charging.

Default is 4.10v for li-ion, (adjustable to 4.20v),

4.20v for li-po (can be used for li-lo, adjustable to 4.30v)

[cajampa]

@tatasal

Default is 4.10v for li-ion, (adjustable to 4.20v),

4.20v for li-po (can be used for li-lo, adjustable to 4.30v)

Oups :zipper_mouth_face:, i meant to say what is the termination current.

[tatasal]

@cajampa

@tatasal

Default is 4.10v for li-ion, (adjustable to 4.20v),

4.20v for li-po (can be used for li-lo, adjustable to 4.30v)

Oups :zipper_mouth_face:, i meant to say what is the termination current.

The termination current always goes down to 10% of the chosen charging current before it terminates the charging session.

The iCharger and the Opus ends like this, you can watch it in the display.

[cajampa]

Ok thanks, that is not bad. So if i would charge at 500mA it would terminate at 50mA, but i would like it to be 5% even if it would take much longer to charge because of stabler & higher resting voltage, too bad you can’t chose how much you want the termination current to be.

[tatasal]

@cajampa

Ok thanks, that is not bad. So if i would charge at 500mA it would terminate at 50mA, but i would like it to be 5% even if it would take much longer to charge because of stabler & higher resting voltage, too bad you can’t chose how much you want the termination current to be.

Very few mah’s (and very slowly) are added even during the last 20% of the cycle, I doubt asking for the 5% is practical for all intents and purposes, as those few mahs will be wiped out in just one click of a ‘turbo’ mode.

[cajampa]

But then nothing about hotrodding lights and building a light with as low resistance in the circuit as possible is “practical”, i do it because it is fun to push things to the max & it gets me very very bright flashlights

And that means i have to try to optimize every part of the circuit, including the battery.

Even if the top output only lasts a few second, i still want the max that it can be & the max that i can make it do

[tatasal]

to that

[xv-750]

eBay adjustable CC/CV module for 4.3v cell charging?

I recently got a giant pile of 4.3v Samsung cells (here), and don't have a charger capable of going over 4.2v. I know the capacity doesn't change a lot between 4.2 & 4.3v but I'd like to be able to use it anyway. I have one of these CC/CV regulators and it claims to be able to do LiIon charging. I've used it as a simple voltage/current regulator for fans and LEDs but not tried using it as a charger yet, because I'm not entirely clear on how to adjust it for charging a LiIon cell and would rath…

I use one of these to charge my 4.35v batteries.

Simply adjust it to whatever voltage you like and ignore correct charging practice and get shorter cycle life from your batteries.

They are your batteries, so you can do what you like.

I'll stick to not exceeding 4.20v during the CV stage, and enjoy batteries that seem to last forever. My preferred charger is a hobby charger.

[xv-750]

@cajampa

But then nothing about hotrodding lights and building a light with as low resistance in the circuit as possible is “practical”, i do it because it is fun to push things to the max & it gets me very very bright flashlights And that means i have to try to optimize every part of the circuit, including the battery. Even if the top output only lasts a few second, i still want the max that it can be & the max that i can make it do

You'll get even more brightness without over stressing the batteries.

[tatasal]

@xv-750

@cajampa

But then nothing about hotrodding lights and building a light with as low resistance in the circuit as possible is “practical”, i do it because it is fun to push things to the max & it gets me very very bright flashlights And that means i have to try to optimize every part of the circuit, including the battery. Even if the top output only lasts a few second, i still want the max that it can be & the max that i can make it do

You’ll get even more brightness without over stressing the batteries.

Perhaps a charger that can go 4.40V will give even more…

[cajampa]

@xv-750

@cajampa

But then nothing about hotrodding lights and building a light with as low resistance in the circuit as possible is “practical”, i do it because it is fun to push things to the max & it gets me very very bright flashlights And that means i have to try to optimize every part of the circuit, including the battery. Even if the top output only lasts a few second, i still want the max that it can be & the max that i can make it do

You’ll get even more brightness without over stressing the batteries.

Sorry, there doesn’t exist any 4.35v battery’s that beats the best high drain 4.20v batteries at high amps 5-7A. As far as i know anyway.

EDIT
That DC/DC Buck Converter, from your link was a good idea, if i can figure out how it works i can probably use something like that. Thanks xv-750

[xv-750]

[cajampa]

Hehe

I hope you are kidding If not why would you chose a weak battery like the Efan 2000mhA

Try the LG HE2, Sony VTC5, Samsung 20R, Efest IMR purple 2500MhA or any other HIGH drain 4.20v battery & at 5A, 7A it will beat the 4.35v one.

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

The 4.35v chemistry has potential, but i think all batteries so far that has been released with 4.35v has been high capacity batteries, and not high drain ones, so they volt sag like crazy the first half of the discharge curve, just when you don’t want them to.
And the result is less amp at start.

For lower amp like 3 & below the are very good options, but not for max amp unfortunately.

[coolz]

@raccoon city

@tatasal

I personally would not worry about not attaining the proverbial 4.20V at all.

B-But…

0:)

LOL!!

[hank]

I don’t need poetics, i need fully charged batteries.

poetics??
Listen to HKJ.

[Bort]

I have once again changed the title, to try and clear up any confusions

[flydiver]

@Bort

I have once again changed the title, to try and clear up any confusions

It’s probably too late for that. You have almost 3 pages of discussion with people now nitpicking the details of charging specifications at a level to make a sensible person crazy.

If you WANT/NEED/REQUIRE 4.2v you WILL HAVE TO OVER CHARGE IT (a little), if your diagnostic tools are accurate.
You will NOT get a decent charger to do that at a price you are willing to pay for……unless….it is slightly defective.
IMO you should be quite happy with anything above 4.15v, which is completely IN SPEC, and normal.

You probably ought to pick a price range and detail the amount of ‘screwing around’ with it you are willing to do> as in hobby charger vs. plug and charge.
I think it’s hard to beat the Opus for overall use at an acceptable price.

[Bort]

@flydiver

@Bort

I have once again changed the title, to try and clear up any confusions

It’s probably too late for that. You have almost 3 pages of discussion with people now nitpicking the details of charging specifications at a level to make a sensible person crazy.

If you WANT/NEED/REQUIRE 4.2v you WILL HAVE TO OVER CHARGE IT (a little), if your diagnostic tools are accurate.
You will NOT get a decent charger to do that at a price you are willing to pay for……unless….it is slightly defective.
IMO you should be quite happy with anything above 4.15v, which is completely IN SPEC, and normal.

You probably ought to pick a price range and detail the amount of ‘screwing around’ with it you are willing to do> as in hobby charger vs. plug and charge.
I think it’s hard to beat the Opus for overall use at an acceptable price.

I don’t mind the preamble, some of it is quite informative, it does not have to be 4.2V, 4.19V or whatever is fully charged is fine, i just want to finish with a fully charging charger (at the best price)

[Ormbett]

Good charger, nice price, enjoy!
Nitecore D4 at GB
Nitecore D4 at BG

Also charges NiMH, if you feel naughty

Edit: ps. If shopping at BG use the BLF code for even more joy!