If it’s for glovebox emergency use, be aware of parasitic drain of e-switches. You should be able to lock most anodised aluminium lights out by unscrewing the tailcap, but it’s worth confirming this is possible for the model you’re interested in.
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In the cases where that doesn’t work, a bit of painter’s tape on the negative of the battery works very well to keep it from discharging, while still being easily removed.
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Fenix LD15R looks like a nice little right angle light, has white and red emitters, comes with a 16340, also works with cr123a, and seems to be widely available yet.
The Jet-II is a twisty, so guaranteed no parasitic drain when off.
Among the best finish on a light that I’ve seen, smart looking, and compact.
Only issue is that Jetbeams are notoriously green, especially on low. Not nearly as bad as 47s, but annoying to purists.
But if you’re just changing a tire or grubbling around under the hood, who cares?
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@Bigm, did you find what you were looking for?
I haven’t been on BLF in a while and only now noticed your WTB. I’ve got several cr123a/16340 lights in the vault if interested. Including a Foursevens Al like you picked up but modded with Nichia 219B SWK45 and optic.
Other tiny fellas include -
- Fenix E16 w/Nichia 219B SWK45
- Klarus Mi1c w/LH351D 5K hi-cri
- Wowtac/Thrunite W1 wNichia 219B SWK45
Let me know
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Sorry to hijack but I have a question:
Do you have any info on the W1 being compatible with CR123 primaries?
I have a Thrunite W1 and I really like it. However, I cannot find anything online about their compatibility with CR123 primaries. I don’t want to run primaries in the light if the light is built for the higer voltage 16340s and won’t actually run a CR123 for good runtimes until empty due to the different voltages. For me, CR123s are for those settings where electricity is inaccessible for an extended period of time. In those cases, getting every bit of juice out of the primary cells is important.
The battery it came with has a protection circuit, so I thought maybe the light didn’t have LVP.
The literature I received with my W1 says it has a working voltage of 2.7 to 4.2 volts.
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Have someone exp. with the
mentioned aboved?
Looks nice and matches the wanted light category.
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that is LiIon voltage, it would not take advantage of the ability of CR123a to run below 2.7V
here is a CR123a datasheet that shows it can run below 2.7V, but only in a light that is unprotected
if the light is built for the higer voltage 16340s and won’t actually run a CR123 for good runtimes until empty
correct
for CR123a, 2.7V is not empty
I thought maybe the light didn’t have LVP
the zeroair review says the light Does Have LVP
Using CR123a would not take full advantage of the ability of CR123a to run below 2.7V
Since you already own the light, it would not hurt it if you choose to do your own CR123a runtime test, Then you would have some first hand experience whether it is worth it to you, to use CR123a in your light.
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Ooh, that Foursevens Al with the 219b sounds awesome! I’ll send a dm. The others also sound nice, especially the Fenix. Like many here, I’m a sucker for 219B SWK45!
As an update, in addition to the Foursevens Al I grabbed, I also ordered a few more, lol, including a couple two cell lights. I ordered a Fenix LD15R, which should arrive in a couple days. Should be a useful little light.
Just got an Eagletac DC25 MKII with a Nichia 219C. I was really looking forward to this light, but might have to try and exchange it. The threads were kinda rough, and the o-ring shredded itself when I first opened it up to check it out. I’d just replace the o-ring, but not so sure I’m ok with the threads being so rough. Other than that, it seems to be a nice little light. Hopefully I can update with a solution to the issue.
Ebay is a dangerous place for my pocketbook. As far as two cell lights, which I definitely was not looking for, I wound up with a Fenix TA20 and a nice Surefire E2 Executive with the teardrop head and incan bulb for that old school warm glow. I’ll probably get a Lumens Factory Nichia drop in to upgrade the bulb, and possibly upgrade to a McClicky switch. First Surefire that I’ve got that the switch is less than expected, but it makes up for it in overall beauty. The TA20 was justified as it’s kind of a rotary, and I didn’t have anything like that yet. Not a bad light overall.
I’ll try and update with some pics of the lights and beamshots at some point, once everything has arrived.
Wellp, if you’re tolerant of 2-cell lights that can run '123s, try the Nitecore MH20. Love that little bugger, especially the “warm” (read, non-frigid neutral) version.
It runs an 18650 or a pair of '123s, has built-in charging (not for '123s, though, obviously), has a fantastic UI with its 2-stage sideswitch, and is probably the most compact 18650 light with sideswitch and built-in charging.
Compare that to the Wuben i332 which has the exact same dimensions ±1mm or so, but only takes a 16340, not even an 18350!
I burned off a pair of 123s that I wasn’t going to be using anytime soon, and my '20 worked just fine. Got (somewhere… B’harni knows where, though) a box of '123s for Just In Case that I can always use in a pinch or if the shtf.
Check it out…
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If you can find Nitecore EC1, Jetbeam flashlight RRT-0 Raptor.
Nitecore and jetbeam have new models of these two in single.
Surefire E1 or E1e the originals.
To add
E1 backup also these are led. E1 series can have led
Ceya!
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Just a little update. I received two very nicely modded lights from @pc_light over the weekend at a good price, well packaged, and shipped fast. I’d definitely vouch for him as a trusted seller!
I will try and get some pics of lights and beam shots soon to update for anyone following along with an interest in tiny CR123A compatible lights.
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