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That Nichia 119 I was talking has probably the highest hicri from all mentioned here
It’s HiCri 92
And it’s only 1 dollar and change, for the emitter
I thought that was the 219 not 119? But admit I am not knowledgeable on them.
ChibiM, do you know of any AAA or AA hosts this 119 would work with? I guess the star would need to be pretty small too, for AAA.
That is a 119, but most people on here have used the 219 which has been available from illumination-supply for a while now, and is capable of higher current. I’m not sure how the 119 could be soldered to a conventional XP-E/G/219 PCB though without short circuiting.
Ah OK thanks. So its a matter of current. Good to know.
Nichia 119 is rated for 700mA. Actually, quite a good deal getting 80lumens + 92CRI for $1.30.
The driver can simply be 2x7135 chip for 700mA single mode.
A cheap $2 AAA host here for a limited time: Deal alert: Mini Lumapower for $1.99 at Tomtop .
With some mods, that $2 host, $0.40 2x7135 chip, and $1.30 Nichia 119 = $3.70 80lumens 92CRI mini light. You do need one 10440 battery though.
Cool idea Pulsar13. Thank you for sharing it.
Yeah thanks
Times running out on the deal.
Deal? as in the host? I’ll pass on that part. But Pulsar13 woke me up about the 119-H1. I see you can get 5 for $5.30. Maybe a 400 lumen 5 emitter light. Who knows. Just sounds like some cheap fun.
Good news, I just read the spec sheet and realized 80 lumens for N119 is at nominal current 350mA. Meaning at 700mA it will probably be around 120lm or more.
Getting 80lm of 92CRI light at 350mA is nice! That don’t really require much heatsinking at all, meaning this probably can be dropped in straight to a cheap AA/AAA host without adding new pill. A cut soda can sheet should easily provide enough heat transfer to body.
I’m thinking of ordering a few of this 119H1 to mod around with.
What do ya’ll plan on using as the pcb?
Do you think it could be put into a Sipik SK-68 clone? I already have a few that’s why I ask.
I plan to use solder the -ve pad to a makeshift pill, and +ve pad to wire, isolated with kapton tape.
But doing this has a drawback, I can no longer use single/dual 7135 as driver since it is gated at -ve point. Soldering to pill connected to body will bypass all -ve points, meaning the driver had to gate at +ve.
But if I insulate the “pill” against the body, then it will work with 7135, but will hinder thermal conductivity.
So, I need to play with them in order to really see which way to go best.
I’m thinking about making a headlight for jogging. I don’t need a lot of light, but I want high CRI to better spot snakes and such. I’m in the country/woods.
The 5 119’s will be mounted in a straight line along two long strips of copper (flattened 10 or so gauged wire). The 2 long strips will be the plus and minus feeds and provide the heatsinking. The strips will be adhered to a plastic backing or something that would go against my forehead. I will probably use a some type of mirror to prevent blinding oncoming cars and such and to redirect the rays that would go upward.
Exactly what I did. I used a 1.7A driver. The max mode is about 200lm. Very sweet. I carry it everyday.
Would it not be possible to use a piece of copper, the size of a penny. Then cut it in half, and rejoin it keeping the two halves insulted from each other. Then the 119 could be reflowed. All you would have to do insulate the bottom of the copper so it didn’t short with the pill.
Marc.
Sounds like a good approach to me. Should work fine.
It is a cool setup. I do not have it anymore though; I gave it to a super-cool super-nice BLF member yesterday. He loves it.
Got my five 119H1’s yesterday. I may have to order more. I’m having trouble deciding what I want to put them in. Guess I’ll hook one up to something just to see the what the light is like. Does look like it will be warmer than 219 B10. Should be great for indoor lighting.