Looks good, but I think the head is to big for the pocket.
Head will definitely be too big for a pocket but it wins on high output, high CRI, floody beam, long runtime.
Biggest size I would consider pocketable (at a push) is 18650 tube lights which lack mass/surface area to handle high output for long periods. For this size category, I think you’d be happy with Jax light linked earlier or the Emisar D4 with a frosted optic.
Edit to add: unless the head is glued, an optic swap is easy, just open the head, take out old optic, put in new optic, close head.
I think what sovereignknight meant when he wrote “They just now started making lights with the option” was that they make a (different) light with that option and to “Just contact them and tell them you want a frosted lense” (put on the Nichia)
By all means you could ask you could ask them but I’m not sure they would do it. After asking them myself to change/add things (body color) they declined. I get the feeling they only want to sell the lights exactly as listed and if they were willing to offer a different version they would just make a listing for it or add the options to the listing.
.
Yes this looks correct, I added the tint options and links to your list.
.
To be honest I have no experience with the LG emitters and haven’t researched anything on them either, so I really can say which is best between that and the Nichia. I saw it listed there, but I never even considered the LG, now I’m thinking I should have!
With the tint options they offer for the Nichia I was torn between the 4000k (maybe too warm for me) or the 5700k (maybe too cold for me) I really wanted 5000k, which now I see the LG is! Also now I see the LG is 950lm, vs only 720 for the Nichia.
So now my curiosity is piqued for the LG and I’m thinking I should have tried it instead for the tint/CCT I wanted and the much higher output! I’m going to look into it more and I may end up getting that one too. One thing I couldn’t find in their listing for the LG is the CRI rating, but looking at the part number on the shipping label they show it looks like the 90CRI, so same CRI as the Nichia.
.
Correct, replacing the lens/optic is much easier than replacing the LED emitters.
.
No the diameter on that one is 25mm, which is larger than the body of the light itself, I think the correct diameter optic for these is 20mm.
Also if you decide on one of the Jaxman, I suggest just getting it and see what you think, my Nichia version has no hot spot at all. Then if you wanted to see what difference frosted would make a good idea would be to try some DC Fix over the lens as Boaz suggested. (BTW these Jaxman’s have a glass lens over the TIR, so you wouldn’t need to worry about scratching the plastic TIR if removing the DC Fix)
.
I’m not 100% sure but it might not be that easy on the Jax:
“the holes for the optic in the MCPCB are too narrow. You will get the legs of the optic in eventually but it is a royal pain to get there, I even used gentle whacking with a punch and hammer one by one on top of the legs to get the optic fully down (and thus leds in focus). This is a serious opportunity to damage the optic and if you are a bit more clumsy: the leds. When building up the second host I will ream the holes a bit before reflowing the leds”
Quote by djozz (post #17) from this thread: How things go on with Jaxman E2L hosts? - #17 by djozz
.
Again not 100% sure but even worse I think I read somewhere Jaxman also glues in the posts. I know they glue down the MCPCB’s.
@beam0
20mm, lenses. The first has the magic words ‘mega flooder’ in it 
Will that fit or is the distance between the leds not standard?
This is lens is a MEGA flooder!
Frosted Medium Spot Optic
All that talk about glue makes me feel uneasy because that rules out modding.
Well, maybe not…
Yes this looks correct, I added the tint options and links to your list.
So now my curiosity is piqued for the LG and I’m thinking I should have tried it instead for the tint/CCT I wanted and the much higher output!
[/quote]
Nichia 234lm @ 700mA 3000K
LG 353lm @1050mA 3000K —-> 235lm
Can’t find real data to compare but in a review 960lm for a Nichia 5000K was stated. LG 5000K does 906lm @3A
So LG’s output is quite equal to Nichia’s. Or am I overlooking something?
For me teh ideal light has a sustianed turbo of 1800lm (but 1200lm would be fine too). With 3 LEDs in teh Jaxman that’s only 600lm (400lm) per LED. Both are very capable handling that output.
WHAT!? Why the heck do they do that!? Doddamnit jaxman, I was so close to ordering some lights from them as well 
I’ve been selling Dc -fix on BLF for a couple years
It’s hard to guess what’s the maximum size of a light that fits in my pocket. I even tried to test with little cans from the kitchen cabinet.
All lights suggested in this thread have their good and bad points. Color, flood, runtime can be modded. In theory of it isn’t glued down.
Lights that are to big, stay to big bo matter how long you look at them…
Some background on my philosphy about size.
I think we all all agree in the end there is always a trade-off between size, runtime and weigth. Weigth is of little concern to me.
I have Convoy BD04. I like it. Slips in the pocket very easy. But, for me it has a massive design flaw.
The head is 32mm and fits in my pocket with some mm to spare.
The greatly flawed body is 24 mm.
Why greatly flawed you may wonder. One of the flaws is that the battery goes in some sort of tray that takes up space. A 20700 battery fits very easily in that light (I tested that) if it wouldn’t have a tray. So if the guys at Convoy redesigned that light a bit I would have 23% much more runtime. (based real life mAh from reviews here on BLF)
Increasing the body diameter with just one mm allows for a 21700; adding another 600mAh. That’s 42% more runtime as what I have with the 18650 cell.
Because the head is 32mm and fits perfectly in my pocket the body could be easily enlarged to accomodate 26650 cells. 72% increase of runtime compared to the original 18650 runtime.
The obvious next step is 32650. That would require a slightly thicker flashlight. Say 35mm. Still a very good size with almost doubled runtime. But 32650 cells are a bit rare and not all chargers may support them.
Similar sized may be a body that holds 4x18650. That would mean 400% runtime.
So with often tiny changes in design mean a lot more runtime.
Good, but there might be one more misunderstanding.
I do not want to tweak the light so that it burns my hands or explodes. I want the opposite.
I want to leave the thermal protection fully functional but I don’t want it to be triggered.
So when I buy a light with a totally useless Turbo of 3800lm that lasts a minute then I would instantly (if I could) change the turbo output to the maximum output that can be sustained for an hour without any danger to the owner or light. If that level would be 1200-1800lm it would be ideal for me because that’s plenty for my personal use.
The reason I don’t buy a light with 1200-1800 output is because I can’t find it
Well, I can find it but then something else is wrong like: size, runtime, not high CRI, hot spot in the beam, no flooder, etc
From what I have read here somewhere, the BD04 isn’t actually an original Convoy light. It’s a re-branded Thorfire BD04. The reason for the cell case is the charging port on the back needs access to + pole of the battery. Without the casing they would still need room to run wires from the back up to the front.
That’s why modding is so popular
I also recommend the Armytek Wizard, specifically the XP-L version. I don’t know any light that covers more use cases.
BTW: 32650s are not worth it. They have a rather low energy density because they are not used in the industry. The best 26650s with 5500mAh offer almost the same amount of energy in a smaller package.
ArmyTek Wizard
Isn’t that light hard to hold in your hand? Looks a bit unnatural to me. But I really see the uses of the clip and headband.
Unfortunately it has an hotspot. Would have liked a bigger battery, but if the runtimes are real then it’s ok.
https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/?features_hash=12-1171-2300_17-24-50_23-4969
What’s the difference between
“DIGITAL (CPU brightness control) and FULL (constant brightness)”
How about an Olight SR Mini? 3 LEDS, TIR lenses and diffuser, 3 x 18650 so plenty of run time, just under 50mm diameter, only thing lacking is the levels you are after.
What I think of this light depends greatly on how the runtimes.
I really fear it’s much less because they use the deceptive ANSI standard. ANSI FL1 Standard - LED-Resource
If only Turbo steps down I don’t care. All I’m after is a steady 1800lm
If that’s so this light is high on my list. If not, very low on my list.
/EDIT found this review
Pitty, I have some good wide tops. The real button tops seem to come in lower capacities only. Blob-o-solder I guess
That makes me hope 20700 cells fit….
My Pflexpro Convoy S2+ triple Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI on 18650 will do 800 lumens OTF for 3 min until thermal control drops it to about 500, and should run over an hour at that level. Can be boosted temporarily to 1600 lumens in short bursts. The 70CRI version is much more efficient. You’re not going to get 1200 lumens for an hour in a pocketable light, not with hi CRI, they are less efficient. Not going to be big enough to keep it cool if its pocket size. At least you would be able to program the mode groups exactly how you want.
You have unrealistic expectations, IMO. A light that can sustain 1200-1800 lm output for an hour without getting too hot to the touch will need a large head/body to help dissipate heat, which means it will not be pocketable.
Maybe it’s unrealistic but I can’t give up before the race has begun
Seriously now. I was just quoting from CLF and if I read things correctly 1200lm works up to 140 mins without stepdown.
The manufacturer claims 180 mins
See graph halfway down this page: [CPF](http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:ODkcprGMcZEJ:www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php%3F412253-Olight-SR-MINI-II-2015-(3xXM-L2-3x18650)
