So for the Nitecore I might miss the 400lm and 1000lm levels. I really like angle lights so the new brighter one I get may end up being only for certain uses, and continue using the HC30 daily. I also need the magnetic tail cap, that is a very useful feature for me. I had to glue one on my HC30 but it came off.
I’m looking at the Rofis because I like how it goes from angle light to straight, that one could replace my HC33 for everyday use. I like how the head rotates on the new R1/R3 versions (better than the TR18/TR20), also the TR18/TR20 are CW only. Rofis informed me they plan on offering NW versions of the new R1/R2/R3 around March this year, so I’m waiting to see if they do.
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It does mention it, I believe tha’ts what the “(ATR)” is:
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To be honest I haven’t paid attention to the stepdown much, on mine, my needs are different from yours in that respect. I really can’t say I’ve even seen it step down so it must be gradual, but I certainly haven’t tried to run it on Turbo for anywhere near 60min. probably 10-12 minutes at the most, it gets kind of hot on turbo.
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Here’s a runtime/stepdown graph (click on the graph for the review on BLF):
I’ve probably never run it on turbo past 15 min. so looking at this it really doesn’t drop much within that time.
The high mode does run steady for me, didn’t know it would go that long though!
So the turbo is useless, but high is great and bright enough for my use.
I’ll certainly try when buy such a light.
I’ll try it anyway on for example my Fitech which has a very bad looking beam. Right now have more lights I really need so I’m looking for a green (or blue) DC fix for one of my lights.
I’m leaning to “Zebralight H600Fd Mark IV XHP50.2 Floody 5000K” because that seems to serve all my needs out of the box.
What like about the Zebralight is that I can fully configure my mode groups by selecting 6 brightnesses out of 12. So I could configure away everything with to aggressive stepdowns. I can even configure different groups for different uses. It’s important for me I can select really low output for certain tasks to avoid being blinded by the reflection of my own light.
But as you very well know, it’s never easy. For example there isn’t much I really like about Rofis but the adjustable head is just great and would pay $50 extra for a Zebralight that has such functionality. I still have 5 weeks to decide because the ZL is out of stock
I don’t know of anyone who has done that. I probably would have done something like that if I thought the BD04 was worth the effort, but I don’t like it that much. Mine is just collecting dust.
Yes I’ve read here on BLF where someone has done that, pretty sure it was either vwpieces or firelight can’t remember exactly who and I really don’t remember the specifics, just that it’s been done. It wasn’t an easy mod IIRC.
Got me curious now where I read it though, I may try to find it later.
I started reading the Nitecore HC30 review and posts again and found out the graph I posted apparently is not showing stepdown by Thermal Regulation:
The reviewer stated: “There was no thermal regulation activated in my test…………………… The HC30 gets hot after few minutes on Turbo mode. There should be a thermal regulating to adjust the output keeping the temperature in optimal range,but as I already noted,I did not manage to activate it”
Apparently the stepping down in the graph is due to unregulated current, not the thermal protection circuit. This is something I need to learn more about, how to tell whether the dimming is from thermal regulation kicking in or from decreased voltage from unregulated operation? There aren’t any temperature measurements in the review.
He swapped the reflector with a 60 degree wide angle TIR diffuser lens, it’s basically a drop in swap, he only needed to grind some around the TIR to fit.
It looks like the photos disappeared from the posts, but I found these photos on X3’s public album:
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Beamshot with reflector (before):
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With 60 degree TIR/diffuser (after): Goodbye hot spot!
I’m pretty sure I have the exact same 60 degree wide angle TIR diffuser (I also bought it from Fasttech), I’m going to try and dig it up and do the mod on mine, I’ll post about it here when I do.
On the Nitecore website, regulation for similar models is mentioned, but that regulation kicks in after an hour or longer, which is very good. And that aligns perfectly with the graph you posted.
About the unregulated current, doesn’t nitecore state their lights are flicker free because they use current regulation?
Whatever the technicalities, the Nitecore stepdown is good. From what I’ve found Nitecore and Armytec are the only ones that state their lights stay at constant output for X minutes.
A little note on this, Armytec has two choices which are support describes as follows: If you need high unchanging brightness for as long as possible, then it’s better to take flashlights with FULL. If you need as long as possible operating mode (given that the brightness will gradually fall), it is better to take DIGITAL.
It looks like Nitecore uses their own version of ‘full’
HC33, HC50, HC65, HA20 all have a 100 degree beam. Quite floody I think. Other brands sell floody beams of 100 or even 120, but the upgrade you posted is still great, because the hotspot is gone. Very similar to the skilhunt with its ‘lens door’ perhaps?
/EDIT
A 60deg lens gives a 120deg beam. That would be great.
That last line is also true when the light steps down after a few seconds. When I spotted that difference I instantly feared Nitecore rephrased their specs so they look good. Shortly after that I found a runtime test that shows turbo lasts only a few seconds. Nitecore HC33 Headlamp Review – ZeroAir Reviews
The Zebralight in that review is a “D” variant. It has an older emitter (Cree XM-L2 EasyWhite) with a relatively high CRI value. This reduces efficiency.
It also has four XP-E2 sized (1mm^2) dies. The XHP-50 in the Olight and the Armytek has newer, larger XP-G2 sized dies (2mm^2). So at the same electrical input power the XHP-50 is driven at half the power density. This increases efficiency.
The Armytek is the light with bad efficiency (in the highest mode). Clemence has studied this in one of his threads. Generally though the problem with that graph is that the high modes don’t all necessarily use the same power.
Found it. Dale did it on a MecArmy PT16 as part of an extensive modding project.
The USB charging components were removed to make room to go from a 16340 to an 18350 cell:
Apparently he initially was willing to retain the USB charging but ended up having to remove it to make room for the longer battery. But as I said it was just part of an extensive hot-rod rebuild for that light.
For the Li-ion specs the runtimes are nearly exactly the same in all 3 tables, there are two tables on the nitecore.com page you linked, the upper table is for IMR battery and the lower is with ICR, those two tables match the 1st two rows in the civilgear table. The only difference I see is for the Low (70lm) in the civilgear table for ICR is 15min less than what’s showing on the nitecore.com table.
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In that review from what I can tell the stepdown is because the battery he used cannot deliver/sustain the current on turbo:
“I tested the light with only a Nitecore 18650”
I think that light needs a high current/high drain IMR cell or at least a 10A ICR cell such as the 18650GA. Maybe try to find some tests where they use a better cell. Pretty sure these don’t have any LVP so maybe a protected GA with 10A protection circuit would be best for some users.
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The HC33 interests me but I’m out unless they release a NW version, same as your requirement I like good color rendering too.
I’ve read that the NW Olight (H2R) is a warmer neutral, that one really interests me, its brighter than the Nitecore, and has the diffused lens. I’m pretty sure the XHP35 in the Nitecore is better suited for throw, compared to the higher output XHP50 in the Olight.
I recommend the Convoy C8, but you really should start a new topic on this in the “LED Flashlights - General Info category” you will get a lot more response that way.
Forum Categories ~ LED Flashlights General Info ~ New Topic
Thanks for all your answers. I’m not going to reply to each of them because they all show the same thing: I’ve been comparing things that shouldn’t be compared.
Color rendering certainly has my interest. What’s best is always a preference, but still a few questions.
Two leds, same manufacturer, same generation, same cri, but a different tint.
I’ve been comparing many beam shots, both video and pictures.
One of the reasons I want good color rendering is that I can see more detail. More variations in color etc.
I’m wondering a warmer or cooler tint affect that. I’m like 90% sure I’ll buy a Zebralight. The ones I’m after only come in 4000K and 5000K.
I’ll be buying a mark IV but only found mark III beamshots.
1000+ beamshots: über 1.000 Beamshots mit Lampenbildern | Taschenlampen Forum
I must say I don’t hate any of them. If I had the choice I would go for 4500K. But that’s based on pictures that likely don’t show real life colors.
A guy that races downhill on his mountain bike wrote that the reacts quicker with warmer tints. So warm tints are safer for his purpose.
While that’s not my use it got me thinking, are there other benefits in color temp besides how natural they look?
Pitch dark basement with old junk in it.
- Faded label on bag.
- A machine with a serial number stamped into a metal label. No ink but engraved. Fairly shiny surface.
A label with not very contrasting colors.
Are certain tints better for that sort of use? Or is there no real difference (until I start using RGB)?
Is a frosted lens beneficial for the situations described above?
I have the 3200 version of that battery. It came with flashlight that’s cheaper than the battery itself.
That new battery has about the same power as batteries I got from a old laptop (that likely have lower specs)
:+1:
