Thanks, great to hear. I’m very interested in this project and will be watching closely.
When I wrote my suggestion, I assumed you already decided tail E-switch because:
Press and hold is only possible on an E-switch. So I went with it lol
For a switch, I personally like forward clicky tail+ side e-switch, but that may be harder to make and I know it’s not as popular here.
If it’s a mechanical/common tail switch only, then it would need a different UI:
I’d still want a forward clicky. something like:
15 taps to enter configuration mode
then light flickers to show it has entered config mode, then blinks slowly 6 times.
turn light off after # of blinks to select option:
1 blink, select mode group: Moon-Eco-Low-Mid-High-Turbo
2 blinks, select mode group: Eco-Low-Mid-High-Turbo
3 blinks, select mode group: Moon-Low-Mid-High-Turbo
4 blinks, select mode group: Low-Mid-High-Turbo
5 blinks, select mode group: Low-High-Turbo
6 blinks, select between mode memory on, always start on low, and always start on turbo.
It would be awesome to see an option to buy forward clicky and reverse clicky tailcaps. I know that’s unlikely.
1 Thank
E tail switch sounds more fun to have, I think we are more likely to go E tail switch.
Osram CSLNM1.TG.
14500 and AA NiMH. Low voltage protection for both.
Forward clicky tailswitch to avoid parasitic drain.
Simple UI:
Off | Half press | Momentary on (memory) and cycle (Low, Medium, High)
Off | Click | On (memory)
On | Half press | Cycle (Moon, Low, Medium, High)
On | Triple half press | Strobe
On | Click | Off
Strobe | Click | Off
Don’t memorise Strobe.
A pocket thrower with a unique head and fidget design.
519A 3000K would probably make it more practical for EDC. NM1 is cool though. All the cool kids are swapping NM1 into their ReyLight Pineapple Mini’s 
2 Thanks
Thanks TimMc
It sounds like a traditional tail switch one. In this case, we may need to use 2 stages switch for From on, half press to cycle outputs.
1 Thank
Yeah. You could also momentarily cycle from off by half pressing with a forward clicky tailswitch (e.g. Olight i3T, Acebeam Pokelit AA).
I prefer to use simple user interfaces but I enjoy modifying complex user interface (Anduril). 
A tail e-switch might make more sense if you want a complex user interface with smooth and stepped ramping. It might be more appropriate for a futuristic/fidget design. I’d recommend high CRI and a warm CCT.
1 Thank
Yeah, I agree with you on E-switch, now we have a rough UI on top, not sure about smooth ramping. Hope to see more comments on this to add or not to add smooth ramping and what tint they want for the light.
1 Thank
Hey there Loop, I’m a big fan of your stylish LEP, you all came out of the gate with one of the most powerful LEPs, which makes a huge statement with us enthusiasts. Im excited to see you creating a AA/14500 flashlight. That being said here are my answers and feedback.
For High cri Led options 519a is the new hottest emitter on the market. Its great and versatile with an easy option to dedome and increase throw and lower cct for a nice warm beam profile.
For the throw option, the sst20 is decent on throw performance and you maintain high cri utilizing the 4000k so it is the best of both options for cri and throw. The osram w1 is a close second with its sheer throwing ability and nice clean white beam.
I like your simple UI plan that you have in place, the moonlight is sub 1 lumen, which is a must for us flashlight enthusiasts. The spacing is optimal as well. I LOVE THAT YOU ARE ENTERTAINING AN E-SWITCH!!! If you do go that route, I would suggest looking into the open source UI Anduril by User Toykeeper here on BLF. It is a great UI, but I could see a simple UI like the one you mentioned being great as well, as long as strobe and blinkies are hidden!
As for the batteries the community hasnt had a side by side 2×aa/14500 since the Manker T02 Manker T02 Pocket EDC LED Flashlight - Mankerlight Official and I think there really would be a big market for an updated version of this, it would have better runtimes and updated emitters and UI, I feel people would buy instantly.
As far as AA, 14500, or both i would say if your target max is around 600lms AA would be fine, but people would prefer both being able to be used.
Onboard charging is great but more of a want and less of a need with enthusiasts, if you were trying to sell this to the mass population of people i would say On board Charging is a must, but not in our case, if you decide to go the lithium route, the usbc battery would be more than enough to satisfy our needs.
As far as clips go, we usually stay away from Dual way clips, as long as its a deep carry clip we are happy 
Host colors are nice, but a good black or dark gray would be a great place to start with your initial batch and you can move on to colors once you know the popularity of the light.
Material: again, I would start with aluminum and make it more affordable and accessible to us "budget enthusiasts "then make different metal options after you get a feel for how the light will sell.
Other than looking into Anduril User Interface, and a 2×side by side AA light, I think you guys have a good starting place on making an affordable, highly desired flashlight that will be loved by many for years to come.
I look forward to hearing more on you development and successes.
Have a good start to you weekend
-Michael
p.s. feel free to reach out to me on private message with any questions you have 
1 Thank
I think E-Switches have their place, but on a small 14500/AA light they are not good. Parasitic drain is particularly bad for these small capacity cells. For the kind of light you are interested in designing, I vote for a clicky switch.
I think that stepped level changing would be best. Especially if the stepped modes are chosen well.
For this kind of light it would probably be good to allow a simple mode with maybe two levels. Start on low and go to high with a single half click.
It is important to know your customer base. Is it mostly “flashaholics” (dedicated hobbyists) or the general buying public. If it is the latter, much of this just doesn’t matter (LED, CCT, tint, throw, programming). Mostly people want an easy to use, reliable, simple to use, light. I think, from having the discussion with non-fanatic users, they want something that works when they need it and is not expensive. So, which group will you sell more flashlights to?
2 Thanks
Hi Mandrake50,
Agree with you on the customer base, I would like to say general buying public, but reasons we are here, 1. BLF friends here are heavy flashlight users, they know flashlights better 2. We may have general flashlight with tint that BLFers love, or special UI like Michael said earlier Andruil UI, do something return to BLF.
3 Thanks
OK. Then maybe two different models. A muggle with two or three levels and a “PRO” with the bells and whistles us fanatics want or “need” … (?)
1 Thank
Nice! You are going against a lot of competitors in this market segment, so it has to be unique.
I recommend…
LEDs: CULPM1.TG Boost HX or CULNM1.TG Boost HL. The older CSL series are older and have less output. 519A for high cri or SFT40-W. No sst20 or xp-l HI.
Materials need to be aluminum, copper or Ti. Ti is a bad flashlight material…doesn’t move heat well and has poor thermal capacity so use copper for the areas arou d the LED shelf and driver (basically the whole head)
Color: Raw aluminum, stonewashed aluminum and/or titanium, polished titanium and copper, anodized in sand, green, blue, gunmetal grey, red, or black. No glossy finishes.
Driver: please make it a buck or boost driver (if making it AA 1.5v compatible or just 14500) driver with or without a FET channel, max output 5-6 amps. Use either Anduril 2 or a custom UI with smooth/stepped ramping, shortcuts to low moonlight and Turbo and High/top of ramp. Automatic thermal regulation to Tmax 60 C.
Side e-switch please with aux led underneath for in state and low voltage.
Optic: Tir are neat, but i like reflectors too. An OP reflector for the 519A and smooth for the SFT40-W a.d Osram. You could do a TIR, but don’t give it a 3.6 degree beam angle…more like 20-25 since more useful side illumination.
I think rechargeable is optional. Not necessary and adds cost and complexity.
1 Thank
If you go with the e-switch tail. Please make it recessed to prevent accidental activation. That would really set it apart from the competitors.
My personal prefs:
- 519a warm
- single emitter, throwy reflector/tir
- titanium
- captive, one way, deep carry clip
- sub .5 lumen moon
2 Thanks
It doesn’t have to be a huge concern…it’s just important that attention is given to that aspect by the driver engineers. Keep the drain low and even with a cell that might have some self discharge it should still be fine for quite some time. Many lights seem to have an off time drain in the 65uA-80uA range but better ones keep it down around 35uA. Either is acceptable but the lower the better. Aux lighting, of course, being another story.
But Loop…make it a good switch! Too many sub-par switches being used on these small lights. It’s the primary user interface, so it’s nice when it feels good and operates well.
2 Thanks
Another eswitch androol light? Count me out.
1 Thank
Replying below.
LED(options):
CRI preference:
A. 519A
Throw preference:
LED: SST-20 4000k, XP-L HI, or Osram
UI:
ON/OFF: Single Click non digital click. Mechanical button.
Output select: From ON, press and hold to cycle Eco-Low-Mid-High
Turbo: Double Click from on/off
Strobe: 3 clicks
SOS: hidden
From OFF, Hold click to go to <1 lumen moon, then hold click again to go to main group starting from eco. Moon not memorized
From OFF, 3/4 clicks to battery check: maybe show battery level on tail led?
From OFF, 10 clicks to select: Mode memory on, always start on eco, always start on turbo and reverse output ranp. blinks once to confirm selection has changed.
Optional: From OFF, 4 clicks to lock/unlock the light.
Output(With Memory): Moon: <1 lumen, Eco=5-15 lumen, Low =30-50 Lumen, Mid= 100-150 Lumen, High= 300-350 Lumen, Turbo= ~600+ Lumen/max for LED choice
Battery: C. 14500/AA
Rechargeable: A. Direct TYPE C Charging, B. Battery TYPE C Charging… either.
Clip(Deep pocket): B. Common clip
Color Option: raw(machined) or sandblasted
Material: B. Titanium
A full mechanical lockout where no power is consumed at all would be a requirement for me. Too much parasitic drain on e-switches.
1 Thank
Welcome to BLF. I was really excited to see the SK01S coming out and was about to buy it but I saw the review at 1lumen.com that the 910 lumen model only measures 465 lumens. Can you tell me if this issue is fixed? If it even measures 700lumens, I would have bought it. Also since it is so large, why not release a 18650 version?
Loop SK01s review | Loop Skywalker flashlight with 1,600 meters reach | 1Lumen.com
1 Thank
Thank you SKV89,
the 910 lumens we got is directly from LEP without throught the several lens infront, that is why. Marco from 1lumens has mentioned that to us, he show us the right way is to measure with the final product, which is what we gonna follow from then on.
We will consider the 18650 version, but hope it will turn out to look well, same head with lengthen body, you know.
BTW, we will have LED version for SK01s, I think you may have interest, so please stay tune with us.
2 Thanks
A product reviewer. On my Youtube channel, tiktok, facebook I have several hundred clips of flashlights and products with industrial design that won IF awards. https://www.youtube.com/vietnamreviews
I rate your product very highly. Maybe you’re just waiting to receive some design award.
Adding a little improvement I think would be great to mention such as:
1- Charge the battery
-
You can use the magnetic fast charging port like on the brinyte flashlight. Your flashlight has a sliding mechanism. Sliding to see the charging port is also a good idea.
-
The magnetic charging port is also waterproof and it is small enough for you to place it in a reasonable position without affecting the original design.
-
If you integrate a USB-C charging port on the battery, make sure to use a double spring so that everyone can use it with a regular battery. Without the dual springs it is possible that the normal battery will be too short and the lamp will not be used.
If you use dual springs, make sure the stiffness is moderate so as not to distort the anode of the battery with the built-in charging port.
-
Do not equip the usb-c charging port on the lamp with the cover. It is very ugly and you will spend a lot of effort to actively waterproof it.
-
Equipping the charging port hidden in the light body like the nextorch P83 is also a good idea wuben t1 and many other flashlights are also a good idea.
2- Led
- 519A, B. LH351D are all leds with high color rendering that everyone loves. Your lights can shine further with the SST20.
- With your creativity, you made me think of a flashlight that can easily replace the led module. You can provide a soldered led module or a module so that everyone can attach their favorite led to the light. There are many types of leds with the same voltage. Simply solder them on and they will work. I love this design on the Brinyte T18 Artemis.
3- UI
- People are used to clicking to switch brightness. It’s quick and easy to get used to even without reading the manual.
- A certain EDC lamp must have SOS mode. It makes us safer. Because we don’t know what will happen in the future.
- A switch or something always glows to indicate battery capacity and makes it easy for me to find lights in the night.
4- clips
- You have a nice combat ring, I think the clip is unnecessary. The combat ring that can be quickly disassembled without tools would be great
5-
- You will always find yourself first in a photo. Everyone considers themselves special. You can offer the service of engraving your name or something on the lamp for free.
1 Thank
For what it’s worth, Anduril lights can be reflashed to give them a simple 3 or 4 mode UI with no blinkies. The firmware repository includes two examples to use as a basis – an Olight Baton clone UI and a ZebraLight clone. Anduril may be the most popular UI built in this framework, but it is not the only UI.
Or it’s pretty simple to make your own. Here is the source code for the baton clone as an example. It has moon, low, med1, med2, high1, high2, and turbo… plus a lockout mode, LVP, and some very simple thermal regulation. Very simple to edit to match one’s preferences.
4 Thanks