I used to use petroleum jelly, since the Maglite instructions suggested it as a lube for threads and O-rings. I found out that after 15 years, the O-rings had become much harder, and swollen some. They still sealed well, though; but the swelling and hardening effect could be noticed well in all torches I kept lubed. Maglites of the same age, unused and still in their original boxes, didn't have swollen and hardened O-rings.
Last year I began using Nyogel instead of vaseline and super-lube on the threads and O-rings; but on mostly all my torches, the O-rings were now offering fairly more resistance upon screwing the tailcaps off or on. I addressed that problem by adding a drop of silicone oil to the o-ring.
So far, I am happy with this solution.
Even before I began oiling the O-rings, I have noticed that Nyogel turns to a mid- to dark grey rather quickly on bare threads.
Aluminium, in general, is a soft metal and will easily shed its atoms upon even the slightest mechanical effect. Handling bare aluminium will turn your hands grey in short time, as well. I am sure that alloy composition and -quality is a contributing factor here. I'll see how many years it takes for solarforce threads to wear because of (!) lubrication - I am not terribly worried.
One thing is puzzling me a bit, though - even on the threads of my stainless-steel Maratac AAA (still looking for an AA Maratac, hint, hint!) Nyogel turns grey; despite stainless' far greater surface hardness and chemical inertness (compared to aluminium).
I bought this product based on recommendations here. If you look around on eBay you can find larger tubes for cheap. I bought a 100g tube for $20, versus this 5g tube for $6.50. Mine is labeled Nyogel 760G, it isn’t rebranded for ArmyTek.
Would it be safe to use a thin coat of Nyogel on household light bulbs? Sometimes I have trouble removing the CFLs without them breaking loose from the base.
Lets get some updated opinions on this! I have been using NO-OX-ID special compound. It’s designed to keep bare metal from oxidizing but is a great consistency for lube. I loved it at first, but after a year now it seems it degrades faster than I would like.
Is cheap silicone the way to go? Or other options? I don’t like liquid types, too messy imo. Nyogel always gets a lot of votes, but it’s not easy to find.
Might seem strange but I use this. It is pretty much pure graphite so it only takes a tiny amount, and seems to work without problems.
I figured if it’s recommended from my 10k Martin it should be okay. A single syringe this size last me about 2 years.
I also use NO-OX-ID. Been using it for 3 years. First got it at Ilumns,then bought bigger[cheaper] batch on Ebay.
I usually lube my lights Once a year,sometimes Twice.
It is great for many other things,Battery terminals which is one of its specialties[especially marine engines]. I put it my battery terminals and 3 years later no corrosion,not a drop.Also good for hood latch, my cable kept sticking,no more, squeaky doors ect.
I have been using this Sil-Glyde , mainly because I had some , and I did see it mentioned in that CPF thread.
I have not noticed any issues with un-anodized threads. I just wiped some off a light, and it’s the same color it was when I put it on probably a year ago, and it has been apart many times. It works for me.
Are you asking because the Stripped Anno X6R? Aluminum threads get evill after stripping the Anodization off. Think its the porous blasted finish. And dry can easily Gall and Seize with hardly any pressure.
After stripping and cleaning I use some 800 Grit Garnet lapping compound. Garnet is supposed to not get embedded into the metals it’s used on. Good for soft aluminum. Threads are smooth even when dry.
The X6R and other lights too. I recently took apart a solarforce light and was surprised how much the no-ox-id had broken down. Looking for something that will hold that smooth feel longer.
I actually had that super lube in my amazon cart but couldn’t remember why it said “heat sink compound”.
I got something similar to that at Radio Shack last week by accident. I thought it was a type of heat resistant compound or glue. Come to find out it is a lubricant that helps pull heat away from the light and board. Instructions said use it on all threaded points on the light. Not sure how well it will last but it does help move the heat to the body of my 98. Ceramic 2. The guys at Mountain sell it too. Lol I bought it by mistake.
The Super lube thermal grease is the best deal out there for the size of the tube. Lifetime supply for flashlights.
I originally bought it mount those flat LED spotlight emitters. Never used it as a thermal compound under a flashlight Fet driven emitter though.
Remember that commercial?
, and I did see it mentioned in that CPF thread.