Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril1/2 + RGB Aux

[loneoceans]

Hello all,

I hope everyone is doing well. Thanks to all who got themselves a Lume1-FW3X driver, and I appreciate all the feedback and support!

Many of you may have heard of Anduril2, an evolution of Anduril, and comes with a new UI and a whole bunch of updates, including a bunch of whole refactoring. Many thanks to TK for her amazing work on Anduril2! For more information on Anduril2, check it out here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/62656

I had some time to put together a new .hex for Lume1. This was done on Windows and complied with Atmel Studio 7. I tested most of the basic functions and they're working well, but there may be some small bugs here and there which I missed, and some features like the Sunset timer have not been validated fully yet. For now, if you're interested, you can find the .hex file here which you and flash to your own Lume1 driver.

• Anduril2 for Lume1-FW3X - https://github.com/loneoceans/lume1-fw3x (updated 14 Dec 2020)
  > Note that the pinout for the programming pads has the MISO and MOSI pads swapped, when compared to the HarleyQuin programmer / Intl-Outdoor programmer. The final PCB was unfortunately not picked up by Lumintop even though it had the changes. The silkscreen on the PCB is correct, so use that to make sure the pins are connected appropriately.
  
  
• Anduril2 Manual by TK - http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril-manual.txt (please read this in detail for all the new features of Anduril2 and some UI changes)

This build has the following parameters by default:

• Ramp mode by default (as opposed to step mode)
• SimpleUI has maximum current setting at 2A (instead of 3A for AdvancedUI)
• Stepped mode is 4 steps for SimpleUI and 7 steps for AdvancedUI
• SOS mode enabled in Blinky/Util modes
• Model number is "0314" as suggested by TK

I'll be testing it more over the next few days. If anyone is interested, I'd appreciate any feedback as well. Finally, be sure to check out the new 'disco mode' for your Aux lights!

@contactcr

The Rev B board was a bit easier to solder really just due to more room for wire positioning. The solder melts super fast so that isn’t different but it does give you a bit more room to hold things in place while you give it a quick touch with the iron. I pulled the components from a first generation board that I filed a bit too much. Does anyone have any spare RGB LEDs or a non working aux board I can pull them from? Can trade for resistors or reflow a Rev B board for you.

Thanks Contactcr for testing out the Rev B board! I'm glad it's working better.

As for connectors, I think solder-on wires make the most sense. Having a small 4-pin connector will be too fragile for either the main driver PCB and/or the aux PCB. It is also possible to have a flex from the driver to the aux board, but again the connection point will be tricky to implement and much much more expensive than wires. The key is to use thinner wires with thin insulation. For example, 30AWG wire-wrapping wire or teflon wire or similar is ideal, instead of silicone wire where the insulation is typically quite fat. Hope that makes sense!

Thanks again and keep safe!