With some firmware changes Turbo could be slightly better. Currently it is using standard Anduril thermal throttling which was tuned for the normal use-case. Some small changes could be made so that it holds Turbo a little longer before the first stepdown.
You must understand that the first stepdown will always be a big jump - not a smooth descent - because intermediate “levels” between 3A and full-FET simply do not exist in this driver.
Personally I don’t care about turbo. Once the thermal throttling works well at max ramp (and everywhere below), I am happy.
The lume 1 is an excellent driver if you mostly use your light at 3 amps or less. In those modes it is far superior to stock. If you want a little light while walking the dog this is the driver to choose.
However, if you’re like me and mostly use your light on brief bursts of turbo, with maybe the occasional extended period at 3 amps or below then the lume 1 isn’t for you. It just doesn’t have a viable turbo mode.
Thank you for answer Varbos
“exceeds the limit”? … ok
38 degrees is a limit? Maybe not for me.
50 or 60 degrees is limit but never reach almost with fresh batteries
So why i have to set temperature limit if it never reached up?
Anduril has predictive throttling. When it sees that temperature is increasing towards the limit, it requests a lower level.
This behavior was designed for flashlights with many closely-spaced output levels. For example D4v2 the Turbo is level 150. After 5 seconds it can go to 149, then 148, then 147, etc. Small output changes that are not noticeable to the eye. Toykeeper spent years tuning this behavior.
With lume1 driver, when you are on full-FET (Turbo) and you want to reduce output, there is nothing possible except a big drop to 3A.
It is what it is.
Because the flashlight could still overheat on max-ramp 3A. 3A is a lot for such a small flashlight.
I’m not completely familiar yet with the Anduril thermal settings, but a few ideas:
If the FET can’t be PWM due to audible noise then switch to 8bit so that it can be switched at higher frequency.
Or put the ceiling at a lower level e.g 130, enable the FET from 131 to 150, if it works as explained by varbos above then the light won’t throttle down until it reaches lvl 130, that’ll teach it.
Or use lume-FF Code , if I understand correctly it uses a higher ”extra” temperature for turbo.
? No you redo the ramp so that 130 is 1023 on the BB channel. Or you leave it at 149 and instead you increase the ramp length with full ON FET levels. The regulation outside of turbo won’t be affected.
The point is to trick Anduril into thinking it’s throttling the FET while in reality it isn’t.
Boy, I’m glad this issue was brought up before I purchased an FW3X. It’s so funny, it seems the mood on BLF has become efficiency, buck/boost above all. But the efficiency gain is actually pretty minimal in the grand scheme of things compared to even the most basic PWM/FE, for my use cases, and the tradeoff is that you lose turbo entirely. That is not an exchange I would make personally.
To each their own. But this clearly is a firmware issue. I’d start with the simplest solution… programmable timed stepdown. Default 15sec or whatever and let the user define it from there. Want your light to hit 100C? Go for it.
I just got an FW3X, which comes pre-installed with the Loneoceans Lume1 driver as shown on the image below:
I have some questions:
in the post about Lume1, it says that the original version does not have RPP (Reverse Polarity Protection).
The one installed on my FW3X, it looks slightly different than the one in the original post here. Do I assume that the one installed on the FW3X is a subsequent version, which already has RPP?
Also, would there be a list of what differs between the original Lume1 driver (as described in the original post), versus the Lume1 installed on the FW3X?
Another question: any idea what is the meaning of the X1, X2, X3, X4?
they look like the soldering connection on the BLF LT1 (on the LT1, soldering the contacts ‘closed’ increases the power), any idea what soldering the X1 to X4 will do to the Lume1 (FW3X)?
Follow-up question:
I notice that its flashing contact is similar to the Emisar/Noctigon flashlight flashing pins
(1 row of 2pins in the center, and another row with 4 pins)
However the position of M0 and M1 on the Lume1 is interchanged when compared with the Emisar’s flashing pin (the other 4 pin contacts appear to be the same).
So it means, if I use the Emisar’s flashing kit, will first need to swap the M0 and M1 to be able to flash the Lume1, right?
To me, it looks exactly like the normal Lume1 driver, and in fact the first batch which had the reversed pins. I doubt any changes were made, such as voltage protection, but I do not know for sure.
I have been able to flash these drivers with the kit from hank, after reversing the 2 relevant pins to match this configuration.
Thanks for the quick reply and confirmation regarding the flashing pins!
Although I don’t insert batteries incorrectly in flashlights (at least I recall very very few times where I may have accidentally did that in a flashlight or when it’s really dark), but in the case of the FW3X, will keep in mind to double check that battery is not inserted in reverse…
Please do NOT attempt to put batteries in reversed direction into the FW3X! I have sold my fully functional FW3X to a fellow member on TLF. He made the mistake to insert his battery in the wrong direction. He said the flashlight immediately started to smoke and some chip was burned up.
Thanks for the replies. So it’s the same and only Lume1 driver that’s used on the FW3X (I recall reading that the high-end FW3A Mokume and Damascus also came pre-installed with Lume1 driver, which has to be the same one.
I’m reading the Lume1 description more carefully — it states that Factory Reset was previously not enabled. But in a later comment, it says that Factory Reset is now enabled.
The Anduril version (via 15 clicks) installed on the FW3X blinks out the date 2020-02-24.
I tried doing the 13H for factory reset, and that doesn’t seem to do anything on the FW3X. (which Anduril version/date for Lume1 will have Factory Reset function?)
Also, the description indicates no need to calibrate the temperature, as it should be shipped with the correct ambient temperature, right?
Mine blinked out -- -- - (21°C), so apparently it was correctly calibrated. But.... no matter what threshold I set for the stepdown (45°C or 65°C), my FW3X immediately (i.e. after 3-4s) stepped down from Turbo to a way dimmer level (ceiling?). This is a major downside imho, so I decided to sell it right away.
