Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril1/2 + RGB Aux

Great idea

Thanks for the input guys- appreciated. Interesting to hear the trick of using thinner wires - won’t be using the 20AWG that I used on the XPL then!

Now, back to Zoom meetings nirvana at work and I’ll ponder on details for my new FW1A build.

JaredM, the W2.2 you refer to, is this the 4040 larger package version of the W2 with that fancy high power name?
Just trying to make sure there isnt something else im not aware of :stuck_out_tongue:

If there is interest, I could add a no-FET build and possibly a version which uses the FET for more than one level. But first I should probably confirm that the base config works.

A no FET build would be amazing! Will save me 4 days trying to work out how to do it myself.
Great for my custom E21a builds. Ive seen tiny smoke before when ive grabbed the wrong light :person_facepalming:
A Buck/Boost E21a with a 18500 tube is the dream!

Yeah, still 219B freaks here would go with reduced FET anytime

Hopefully there isnt actually a technical limitation to PWM FET as discussed before.
Ive got even more 219b FW3As than e21a, though often im using the 18500 2000mah cells which do a good job already without the PWM.

My kingdom for a 5A Buck/Boost driver with no FET :money_mouth_face:

Yes. Unfortunately due to the nature of the slightly complicated naming convention that osram uses, a few shorthand ways of referring to these emitters have come about. W2.2 = 2mm² 4040 aka Boost HX aka HX aka CULPM1… I’m sure there are more.

Good, im not missing out :sunglasses: . Mine are stuck in slow covid chinese mail though :frowning:

Yes it difficult to remember the codes. Owebon made an excellent graphic guide. :+1:

.TG = White (6000K-65000K)
.23 = Red (612-630nm)
.14 = Blue (450-480nm)
.13 = True Green (513-545nm)
.F1 = Pure Green (554-566nm)
.FY = Yellow/Amber (580-595)

S = 3030
U = 4040

N = 1mm²
P = 2mm²

CSLNM1.TG - 3030 –1mm² -WF1
CSLPM1.TG - 3030 - 2mm² -WF2
CULNM1.TG - 4040 - 1mm² - Boost HL
CULPM1.TG - 4040 - 2mm² - Boost HX

That would be useful for me too.

Thanks for linking this. Couldn’t find it earlier.

If you determine more than one level for the FET is workable, then awesome. However, if you try it out and observe unexpected behavior, be aware of the following, taken from the datasheet (page 13):

A no FET and a patial - PWM FET, if technically possible, would be great for people that use 219b. Unless full FET is deemed safe for a 219b setup with this driver.

Agreed, prtial and off would be great.

But as someone suggested above, 5A no FET would be a dream driver.


A no FET and a patial - PWM FET, if technically possible, would be great for people that use 219b. Unless full FET is deemed safe for a 219b setup with this driver.

Actually, if you noticed, I've been running my original Lume1 build in a FW3C, with the 219B 'rosy' LEDs since the beginning of this project, and I haven't had any issues with Turbo mode at all (direct FET drive). However, I did make sure to reflow the LEDs as well as possible, and I made sure heat-sinking between the MCPCB and copper shelf was good by removing any burrs I found on the shelf, and replacing the thermal paste with a good quality one.

In fact, I usually do out-of-flashlight tests with a single Cree XML LED on a large heatsink - I found that Turbo on that single LED actually leads to phosphor damage. I can't guarantee that your 219B setup will work with direct drive, but it certainly hasn't caused any issues for me in my FW3C. I use a Samsung 30Q (pink) battery for this flashlight.

Huge thanks to ToyKeeper for rolling in the Lume1 modifications to Anduril2! I'll get started testing it out, and I'll be happy to provide config files for disabling the FET - this is indeed the easiest thing to do if you want to remove the Turbo feature.

For PWMing the FET, the Lume1 driver uses a tiny charge pump to drive the FET gate, resulting in a high performance Turbo drive. However, this causes a limitation in FET PWM which while not affecting things like 'party strobe' or 'tactical strobing', will limit the ability to PWM at high frequencies. As a result I do not recommend having PWMing on the FET, even though it is possible (with reduced PWM frequency) - this will require some config lines the config files to change the TCPWM for the FET line.

Finally, you all are also right that there is currently no software support for the four aux solder pads. I think it's worth playing around with the firmware to see if I can enable those solder pads to enable easy changing of features - at least disabling / enabling direct drive.

I always reflow the LEDs very well, making sure they have a perfect contact and no excess solder underneath. I use high quality PC CPU thermal paste. I have not used my FW3x lights on Turbo a lot, but the original FW3A used to be an XP-L and I have 219b emitters on it for ages, with the firmware it came with - no issues.

It seems like good reflowing and good thermal paste do make a difference.

I am now wondering if it is worth it losing the FET altogether, since PWM on the FET is not good. I will probably keep the lights running full FET :slight_smile:

Now hearing this i'm thinking the same, going full throttle.

As for heatsinking, i have soldered MCPCB directly to a copper shelf on 2 FW3C and 1 FW3B. I think it has a good heat transfer :)


What’s your preference contactc? Sliced dogfarts?