The blue/green/red for voltage mode is from an older build of Anduril.
It sounds like yours is functioning normally. All colors are included in the voltage mode on the newer builds, in the order of the colors in a rainbow. So red would be lowest and purple/white (depending on the calibration of the voltage sensor) would be the highest.
It’s also normal that the voltage will read lower immediately after the light has been used. The more current you pull from the cell, the lower its voltage drops due to internal resistance. When you turn the light off, it will return to a resting voltage but it may take the light a few seconds to update the color due to the polling rate.
The matter of fact 4300lm in a 30deg beam parttern light vs a 2000lm in a 130+deg beam pattern light which is a pure Mule ligh is going to make the 130deg light 2000lm look like straight 500lm for most people even if it floods everything up to 10meters ahead, it is pretty much dead at useful distances of 25-50meters one wants to illuminate.
Soldered mine up. Resistor values on mine definitely didn’t match up, green was brighter than anything with blue being the lowest of all three channels. Perhaps the resistors between the two got swapped during assembly?
Got an issue with the aux board though, it’s no longer lighting up. Initially the red channel was finicky, so I resoldered the aux board connections to remove the potential of a cold joint/bridging there, but now after a brief period of time they’re not working at all.
I’m gonna try resoldering the leads on the driver before going anywhere else, but beyond that, when it worked it was real nice, top notch work designing all this! Even if I can’t sort out the aux board issue, I’m still plenty happy to have this driver in hand and working.
I installed mine. It was not so smooth and easy as I anticipated.
Mine FW3C has different version of MCPCB, I had to scrap a bit of white material and solder wire there:
I swapped resistors for green and blue, was not so hard. But soldering tiny wires took me around 1 hour and it does not look pretty… (but it works):
Here you can see comparision with KR4 aux leds, on low (right side) and on high (left side). Pictures were taken with the same settings (white balance, shutter, iso). “White” (all on) pics are on the bottom:
Anyone had any drivers shipped in the last 2 weeks?
I ordered another batch and the orders seems to be doing the common Neal “sitting there doing nothing and not repling” order thing.
Just trying to work out of the stock is gone and he doesnt want to say so, which has happened before.
A great thanks to everyone for the feedback and comments, as well as for sharing your build photos. These are all very useful and the learnings from them will be conveyed in future designs, and I greatly appreciate them.
pc_light, thanks so much for your photos, those look really good!
contactcr, thanks for your build video, I'm sure it will be useful for others trying to do this mod.
Whezzel, g_damian, etc, thanks for the photos and for trying out different resistors!
Just to remind everyone, my suggested build instructions are detailed in the PDF datasheet linked on the Github for this project. Please refer to it for details on how to get started. For example, soldering the Aux wires is a lot easier if you use thin wire, such as AWG30 (especially solid core). These wires carry very little current so there is no need to use silicone wires, which typically have thick insulation, and are typically fine-wire-multi-stranded, making soldering a fair bit more challenging.
Unfortunately I don't even have any of those two flashlights myself so I can't even begin to do any design work on them. I'd had to purchase all the flashlights I design drivers for myself. I dropped a message to Intl-outdoors a while back but I believe they are tied up in ongoing projects and have no plans to collaborate on a design just yet! I haven't heard anything about the EDC18 from Lumintop either though.
I've removed many glued drivers. Hhmm for this one, probably used a solder pick tool through the LED wire hole. Forst feel around and try to be sure you are not on an IC. Then I'll apply gentle steady pressure - works if the glue is weak. Next would be harder held pressure, possibly off to one side - an edge. If still not breaking, try the hammer with a few light taps.
No need to re-glue a driver like this - simply re-assemble the batt tube and that holds it in place. Really no need to dis-assemble at that thread connection again. The EDC18 from the pics above I've been using to EDC for quite a long time now.
The problem with the aux board fitment on the Ti (and probably stainless) models is that the double thickness PCB is not quite centered. I guess it was cut wrong or something. You can kind of see it just by looking at the optic. The edge of the optic shows more on one side than the other.
Outside the light the aux board fits on the LEDs flush but hangs over one one side. This is why it’s such a PITA to get it seated IN the light.
First attempt failed at the initial step. Couldn’t get the wires to desolder from the mcpcb. So could I potentially solve this with a better soldering iron (all I had laying around was an attachment for a little propane torch), or do I need to unscrew the mcpcb so it’s detached from the shelf?