Today I picked up my GTMini.
Charged to full 30Q and such results:
5.8A on the back of the cap
23 micro Amper drainage (backlight off)
1392 lumen
118kcd
color in turbo 4430K BBL 4D (almost identically as UT02)
Now I have virtually identical performance as my modified UT02 with 1510 lumens. The same range, color, beam … only in a smaller and lighter package. In conclusion, a very nice flashlight.
At what distance did you measure 118kcd?
The measurement was at a distance of 5m and gave a result of 4717. 117877 is the result at 1m distance, calculated.
Thanks for the lumen number… i got 1390 lumen on my mini gt cw with the sony vtc6…
Can’t find it now to check, but I believe the test didn’t compare throw but rather the difference between short-distance and long-distance throw, negating any bin difference.
Oh, you must be talking about a different test then the one I am thinking of, the only one I know of is the one DB custom did where he used a higher bin CW emitter.
Another factor is that camera sensors are also more sensitive to cooler temperatures (which is why they generally use a CW flash as the sensor works best with that).
Also if the air is very clean, then the advantage of the warmer tint is greatly reduced (same reason that the sky is blue when the sun is overhead but orange when it is hitting the atmosphere sideways it has to travel through more of it).
I have seen it with my own eyes many times, in the real world the warmer tints allows me to see further.
All that said, the difference is fairly minor in most cases when it comes to flashlights and getting the tint you prefer is the best choice as that will make you happier overall. There is no right or wrong answer.
Another factor is that camera sensors are also more sensitive to cooler temperatures (which is why they generally use a CW flash as the sensor works best with that).
Also if the air is very clean, then the advantage of the warmer tint is greatly reduced (same reason that the sky is blue when the sun is overhead but orange when it is hitting the atmosphere sideways it has to travel through more of it).
I have seen it with my own eyes many times, in the real world the warmer tints allows me to see further.
All that said, the difference is fairly minor in most cases when it comes to flashlights and getting the tint you prefer is the best choice as that will make you happier overall. There is no right or wrong answer.
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We’re talking about the same test. I managed to find it:
✌ FREEME - ASTROLUX MF04S (XHP70.2) & MF04 (XHP35 HI) - BRASS@.@ - #490 by DB_Custom (with more info in subsequent posts).
I remembered Dale actually measuring throw at distance and remembered wrong. So the results may have been caused by differences in bin.
I purchased one when I was buying the GT70 and I really do like this light a lot.
Did TA make the driver for this mini GT also…?
It would be very nice to get a few of these drivers, very impressive.
One thing is for sure, whoever it is that assembles the big GT’s also must assemble these mini GT’s
I spent hours attempting to get the mini’s bezel off and it’s looking like it’s not possible not without damaging the light so I stopped while I was ahead.
I don’t think Lumin is known for gluing are they?
I was told TA is not going to make driver for the mini gt… not strong enough to make one…
The bezel is glued. Some have a tiny bit of threadlocker, some have a lot. They are gluing a lot of their newer lights. Not the GT, though. It’s just really tight.
TA did not build this driver. It’s based on his Texas Avenger design, though. It is a proprietary driver and not sold seperately. You really don’t want it. If you want a good FET driver for e-switch use, Lexel is the best source. He is moving a bit slower right now due to a hand related problem, but will probably be back to making drivers soon.
Thanks again Jason, you teach me something new and interesting everyday,
I thought about the possibility of it being glued and thought about trying heat but I remember what my bezel looked like after I did that to ano before, sort of a nice brownish color so that idea was short lived.
Not even sure why I wanted to take the bezel off frankly, I just like taking lights apart I think.
Well it is a good little light and yes the big GT’s I bought three of so far and I’ve taken them apart and boy oh boy is that a job.
I read that Lexel was having some kind of surgery on his hand but I do think I’ll take a look at those drivers you suggested when he’s better,
Thanks again as always.
I retest the lumen again after i calibrated the TA tube.
Mini gt cw 1286 lumen @ 5 seconds… ( same as turn on )…
While I did not actually make the “base driver design” as they simply copied the TA drivers and there was not much I needed to change, I did help them prototype it and took care of the firmware. Although I can’t remember if they did the same thing as the GT70 and used a prototype firmware as the final firmware, think I got them to use the final firmware in the mini-GT.
Some testing I did recently for my A4 video.
Do you know the runtime for this flashlight? Could not find it at lumintop.com. Thanks!
It will depend on the battery used and mostly what output level you use. On moon mode it will run for months on turbo maybe an hour.
Awesome, thanks Texas! Could you recommend any battery? I’m looking for long runs for EDC.
I like the “GA” 3500ma cells personally for most things. The 35E is another good cell.
if u dont want to use the 30q samsung high drain battery get one with as high capacity as possible like 3500mah keeppower or similar but its recommended to run unprotected.
My GTmini had lots of threadlocker, which covered all the threads. Using two harbor freight rubber strap wrenches, it separated nicely with some force. No marks left. There are two orings. One between the glass and the bezel, and one on the head at the base of the threads. Using a pick, some naptha, and a micro fiber cloth, the threads came clean. Re-greased with silicone grease, and the bezel comes off easy and smooth now, for future modding if I ever decide to. For right now, it’s a wonderful light just the way it is.
That thread locker will only get harder over time, so if you want to get it apart for future use, I’d do it now and not wait.