Yeah, I don’t imagine the VF would matter that much between 3000k and 5-6500k. But like the SST 20 it could very well be a completely different LED. I’m waiting for a few to come in, so I can swap out a couple. It should make a pretty good LED.
I’m pushing the SFT-40 with a 12 amp driver I dropped into my DM 1.12 I have no way of testing lumen output but it’s much brighter now than with the 9 amp
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Do you have a way of measuring it? I would be interested to see some actual Output numbers With the same cell
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Yeah, like take 2 measurements with simple phone luxmeter, with the only variable being the amperage. There you can calculate percentual brightness difference.
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Or even a current reading. I’d be curious to know the actual current draw
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I will try that out keep u posted
Would you know how to get a current draw using a multimeter I dont have a current meter
With the leads in the correct spot on your meter, you take one lead and hold it to the battery and touch the other lead to the bare aluminum part of the battery tube.
Many/most meters can only measure current up to 10A, so you may blow the fuse. Also, testing current with the leads isn’t accurate. The resistance is too high, as they’re usually quite small gauge wire. I’ve had some luck making my own leads out of a short length 10awg and high current banana plugs, but a clamp meter is still a better option
Thanks I’ll give it a shot…probably should just break down and buy the proper tool for the job
How did you like the SFT40 at 3000K?
I love it! I put one in a Sofirn SC18 (which is an amazing flashlight for very cheap btw, if these were available 6 years ago, it saved me a some modding) and it is wonderful (I think I measured 800 lumen of beautiful light for this flashlight).
I’m still thinking of doing a voltage/output test of the bare led, comparing to a cool SST40 (not SFT40, for a reason), waiting for some time and motivation.
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Nice! Thanks. I’m thinking of picking this one up with the SFT40 at 3000K. I almost always prefer orange peel, regardless of purpose. Is there a compelling reason to stay with smooth here?
(Simon pairs it with a smooth reflector here but he’ll often grant requests.)
You can’t with a regular multimeter, its resistance is too high, itll drop too much voltage at that current. You could measure voltage drop across a shunt resistor and calculate current that way but it’ll still affect the measurement.
I decided to change the LED to SFT40, it turned out well except for one thing. I decided to wipe off the flux marks with isopropyl alcohol, as I always do with electronics, and the phosphor of the diode simply dissolved, now I have a great flashlight with a very blue color, LOL
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Haha, yeah, solvents and LEDs don’t go well together 
Sorry for your loss, but honestly that sounds fun to put in an older/spare light for fun.
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Is it pure blue like CSLNM1.14? Could be a good way to get a powerful blue LED.
It looks like this is the first LED that I came across, the phosphor of which is not protected by anything. All other diodes without a dome did not react in any way to alcohol
I will send it to illuminate the seedlings, they like the blue color, especially such a powerful one
Check the spectrum posted in the start post, then remove everything but the blue peak - that’s pretty much how this should look 
Are there any downsides to removing the phosphor with isopropyl alcohol like this?
Read this and about 10 posts down. I cleaned that SFT40 with isoA, gently, and my light works fine. What did you mod today? - #12443 by Nachtfeuerzeug