Awesome light there djozz. The beamshots say everything.
For farther distances I agree here, when trying to spot at a distance more often than not a strong sidespill from reflector adds backwash and hinders what you are actually trying to look at.
Nice mod! I still want a UV light in this range but the LEDs are so costly.
Djozz wrote:
. . . I am curious about how it holds up against some superduper expensive forensics light, any ideas how that would be, anyone?
This emitter you have shown us seems like a real bargain. I'm not aware of anything of comparable quality in that price range.
Member Teej seems to be knowledgeable and uses UV for investigations. He recently purchased a light that has that great Nichia UV emitter and lists for like $350. Maybe there is some way to make comparable beam shots (same camera, settings, etc). Link should go straight to Post 113.
Your memory is too good :-) And yes, I changed my mind a bit, zoomies can be very handy, perhaps more even for the nice and even illumination when zoomed out than for the tight spot zoomed in. But for nightwalks in the woods I still very much prefer a reflector light.
I think zoomie is right choice for your UV led because you don't really need spill but hotspot only, and you control beam intensity depending on situation you use it for which can't be done with OP or SMO reflector.
I have big and bright reflector flashlight like Microfire warrior HID but I don't use them often... I just freak neighbors out with so much lumen coming out of this type of flashlight.
If you still don't have make yourself warm tint zoomie. I got to admit that I am using cheap warm tint zoomie for 70% of my lighting need, and others for hobby and fun.
I did't, and the pressure is killing me....I'll see what I can do tonight :-)
This light costed me $33 for led, $11 for host, $2.40 for glass lens, I thought it was $2,50 for BLF-driver (from Rey, where is Rey?), altogether just under $50. (I did not calculate total costs before, it is not that cheap of a light when you add it all up. I sure will stop doing these sums in the future 
)
I did some picturing 
, see over there.
Hi djozz, funny finding this thread…I just ordered one of these emitters and am doing research on how to power it and what to put it in. 
As you say, I was curious and now I’m adding up the costs. Oops, maybe I got that backwards!
I to have an upcoming project with UV LZ1’s (3 of em in a TN30, thought about cheap 3535 emitters but I can’t cheap on on such a nice light). I gonna use 2 365’s and a dental blue.
was beginning to think I’d totally lost it and gone off the deep end! Whew! (or at least I’m not alone…)
Yea definitely the second part, I’m so far off I’m drowning stuck to the drain in the bottom. $130 worth of emitters in a $100 light.
I saw that this emitter has a glass dome on it, and it supposedly has an emission angle of 70º…will it work well in a mule configuration?
I’m planning to put it in an Solarforce L2m shorty, with SS crenelated bezel and tail cap. I have one of mattaus’ copper shells designed for a reflector and if it needs a reflector I can do that, but I’m thinking about using one of Richards copper spacers for triples inside the copper shell to bring the emitter up to the front and use it as a mule. It’d be surrounded by loads of copper.
I have a Solarforce convex lens if it actually needs spreading out, can/will use that if necessary either with/without the copper spacer. I want to keep it cool, run it right around the 700mA range where it excels.
Am I thinking right?
I think you are thinking perfectly right, I think this emitter is great for the Solarforce convex lens, which is made of glass (I used it in a zoomie right because of the 70deg emission angle). I have not tested the emitter for maximum output before doing the mod, so perhaps 700mA is on the low side and you can get much more out of it. Mind that you run it at only 3W, P60 drop-ins can normally handle a bit more.
The output level changes the radiance point, it seems to make 365nm best at 350mA and 700mA. I’m looking for that specific 365nm to cure Norland Optical Adhesive. Maybe it doesn’t matter much, just reading the pdf and looking at the charts.
I probably won’t even see 700mA as Vf is about 4V or 4.1V at 700mA. Can’t get 1000mA as Vf is 4.45V at that point. With an 800mAh capacity 18350 cell, and a Vf of 4.2 at 800mA, well, what do you think?
That is why I used a boost driver ;-)
You can scavenge a boost driver from any cr123 primary suitable budget light (perhaps even from AA lights). I used one from the BLF-mini light (=Trustfire mini-01) but any cr123 light will do, like this one, that one leaves you with a nice spare host too (with cool logo 
). Or try out any boost driver in your spare driver box, until you find one that does the job. The boosting is relatively efficient and you get a fairly nice current because the out-voltage is not that much higher than the in-voltage.
I have 2 AHorton glass aspherics that fit the Solarforce.
Can I program a boost driver with modes that I want? Or can I easily control that 700mA power output level? Don’t think I have any in my bin, not even sure what makes a driver a boost driver, lol.