Manta Ray on Aliexpress

Sure, gotta take of for work now but I’ll do that tonight with the parts I plan to use. I probably will try the Manta Ray driver.

Cheers! At the moment im still slightly leaning to the K5S, as it has SS ring, AR coated glass already and also tint options are there, so less hassle. Now the only thing preventing me from pulling the trigger is the supposed lo-mode flash mentioned earlier, would like to know how bad that is.

Feel free to share your planned setup, I would preferably go for the OP version with NW XHP50.2 Gotta maintain those soldering skills :+1:

The first driver looks like a slightly modded 22 mm version of the 20 mm H1-A.
3A vs. 2.8A.

Both are 3A “Max”

H1-A: “2900mA - 3000mA max.”

Manta 22mm: “Ouput Current: 3A(Max)”

I don’t know what the 3x SOT-3 devices are on the battery side of the MantaRay driver, but I don’t see anything comparable on the H1-A.

I see what you mean, something different going on between those two with those transistors. I’m not too knowledgeable on driver components or building drivers though, just noticed they were the same amperage rating.


I posted this in 2 other threads with discussion comparing the KD K5S to the Manta Ray C8.2:

Here are the two drivers with links to compare:



KD H1-A 3A (20mm):
Very Lo(5) > Lo(35) > Med(65) > Hi(100) Hidden Strobe: Double Click
Memory function : ( > 3 secs)

MantaRay LC-15 3A (22mm):
Very Low(20mA) > Low (300mA) > Medium (1000mA) > High(3000mA) Hidden Strobe: Double Click
Memory function : ( > 2 secs)


Jensen567 has done a lot of work on the H1-A and the H2-C. He measured 2.82 A.

I assume that’s why the 3A is just “Max” spec.? The Manta Ray probably doesn’t quite do exactly 3A either in real use.

Don’t know. If they use a slightly different sense resistor, why not? The driver chip can do up to 3.5 A.

Manta Ray Host

Manta Ray 1-cell 22mm Boost Driver

XHP50.2 LED on 20mm Copper DTP (5000K or 4000K)
NW 5000K:
NW 4000K:

Centering ring/gasket
I’m not sure if the host kit includes a centering ring/gasket that goes between reflector and LED, but I don’t see any in the photos. I messaged them to find out. If not I’ll try to find out what the diameter of the opening in the base of the reflector is to get an idea of exactly which one is needed.

Here’s the ones they sell for XML that may work:
(Package “B”)

And here’s some from KD:
http: //

Here’s a photo of what the centering ring looks like in the complete light.


Also here’s XHP70.2 options for a NW LED mounted on 20mm mcpcb:

XHP70.2 LED on 20mm Copper DTP
NW 5000K:
NW 4000K:

Looks like a solid build, are you going to glue the LED or screw it down? Which glue or type of screws would you use? Just one more detail, does the driver or the host assembly come with the driver retaining ring?

I’ve concluded that with a good fit and proper centering ring/gasket, neither screws, nor adhesive are necessary. When the light is assembled, the bezel presses the reflector into position, which presses and holds the mcpcb.

Screws do help keep the mcpcb in place, and the thermal grease undisturbed, while tightening and loosening the bezel. But they shouldn’t be too tight, so the mcpcb can shift laterally, if needed, as the bezel seats and presses the reflector.

Yep what he said ^ >>> EDIT: screws not necessary but can be beneficial :+1: (see post by KawiBoy below)

No glue only thermal paste:


If I can do screws I’ll try to use some Torx/Star head screws salvaged from old computer hard drives, I have a bunch of those.


Good catch about the retaining ring, for some reason I thought it was pictured but now I see it’s not, more questions then Manta Ray.
They do respond fairly quick, I asked about a bezel on a different flashlight and got a reply in a day or two.

Retaining ring usually doesn’t come with the drivers, but one usually comes with the host.

Here’s a photo showing the retaining ring in the C8.2 flashlight:

The screws keep the mcpcb from rotating and cutting the leads, which can cause a direct short and burn the driver out. I use the screws, but not so tight that the reflector/centering ring assembly can’t be floated in.

Sometimes you get Lucky, sometimes you don’t. I don’t like smoking drivers, the drivers I use are a bit expensive in my Big Lights, Direct Drive drivers, it’s usually the FET that gets smoked, I have a healthy supply of them on hand, to re-flow just in case. Buck, Boost or Linear drivers, I don’t chance it.

Good points, thanks! And justification for screws, will try to use them then. Slightly loose sounds like will help with centering too if it would be screwed down slightly off-center, guess that’s what you meant by “shift laterally, if needed”.

Stainless bezels added to store for C8 / C12 / Manta Ray C8.2
(Bright or Matte finish)


Hello, could someone help me, I bought the driver LC15 for xhp50 but the same is not working, and I need to know a voltage value in the featured component in the photo, thank you....



Cool products.

Makes me wonder about building up an XHP70.2/26650 light. Hmmmmm.

Thanks, it was this value that I had in mind, it helped me a lot … it is responsible for the control unit, and it simply was not on the plate when I received it …