Only recent caught the flashaholic bug and found this forum, looks like this is going to be my first modding project. Thanks to Match for the original post.
JohnnyMac, I don’t know if you have picked a driver yet. If you haven’t and you have enough space in the battery tube, you could go parallel cells instead. Just have to be very careful to not create a short.
I’ve found a very inexpensive yet effective option for a drill bit . I used it in a small drill press and it worked flawlessly, and even left a flat bottom for the drop in to rest on. I used a 19mm, as I prefer to grind down the sides of the pill so there’s better heat transfer, but the same seller does offer a 20mm. No excuse not to try this mod now! The first time I tried this mod I used a small Dremel sanding drum chucked into a drill press but it took forever. Get this, you won’t regret it…I’m sure you could use this with a hand drill too, but it will be a bit grabby so secure the head of the light very well.
How about drilling a slightly smaller hole and tapping it to accept the threads of the P60 rather than just having it sitting in there? I would think this would GREATLY improve heat transfer. Especially if this mod is being performed with, say, a 3AA Mag and XM-L.
Hi @ all
one question: it is possible to upgrade the mini mag with a Cree XML U2?
If the answer is yes: which reflector can i use?
It IS possible. But beware of a couple of things. First of all, I don’t know that a low voltage XM-L/XM-L2 P60 is available. And secondly, even if one is and/or you decide to DIY, light output is going to be relatively low. The problem here seems to be the driver - there don’t seem to be drivers that can deliver more than 1A on 2AA. So you are probably limited to around 300-400 lumens (which may or may not be enough for you). On the other hand, if you perform this mod to an older 3AA Minimag LED, you can run any old P60 intended for use with 1x18650.
3AA LED Minimags are still available as new old stock on ebay, and Amazon... though the prices are starting to get a little crazy.
Hey I'm looking at doing this mod but I have an XM-L2 module that pulls 5A on high so I'm worried about heat and the plastic reflector...any idea where to get an aluminum reflector?
I've found glass lenses to replace the plastic lens but the reflector is still a worry...
Hi @ ThirstyTurtle
i use the alu reflector:
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1319
For the Glas lens 
he he im using a mineral watch glas from ebay
Icesoldier,
Can you tell me what diameter the opening in that reflector is at the base?
Hi
vestureofblood
the diameter is: 4,85mm
nice reflector … looks cool 
I am trying this mod (my first flashlight mod!) on an old mini mag I have laying around.
I bought this drop-in reflector set:
http://dx.com/p/26-5mm-aluminum-reflector-drop-in-module-set-without-emitter-5955
This driver:
http://dx.com/p/1-5v-4-2v-3w-cree-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-7mm-5-6mm-25505
and this emitter:
http://dx.com/p/cree-xp-g-r51b-7000k-350lm-emitter-with-16mm-base-44306
My question is that the drop-in set came with a little white paper card. It is not pictured in the link above, but similar to the one shown here:
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1415
Where does this paper card go?
Thanks!
The disc isolates the negate and positive on the led from shorting on the reflector.
OK, thanks, that makes sense. I was overlooking the obvious. Guess it doesn’t really matter in this case because I will be reusing the old plastic reflector.
The plating on the plastic reflector is fully capable of shorting and causing issues. Peel the clear insulator disc off the paper and use it.
Any suggestions on the best way to hold the head while drilling it out? I only have basic hand tools available to me and don’t want to damage the anodizing on my light. I do have a vise and also some vise grips.
I held it with my hand and went slow for the first 1/3. Then I sped it up a bit and loosened my grip on the piece. The drill bit hung up quite a few times.
Padding on the vise should work, vice grips will definitely damage the anodizing.
A 1”(25.4mm) hole in a block of 3/4”(20mm) wood is a very firm press fit for the head and if you drill this hole clear through and press the head all the way in until it bottoms out on a second block evenly you will be able to:
- hold the block while you drill and
- keep the head square in the block.
A step drill works great to self center the hole initially.