How many amps does a CSLNM1.TG draw?
Wondering if I need a high drain battery for a W1 or not.
Incidentally, is there any way I can figure out the answer mathematically using just the data sheet? If I learned to calculate this it’d save me some future questions on other emitters.
CSLNM1.TG
3A continuous, 3.3A pulsed. Convoy drivers take it to 5A (5.1A in the new ones). I run low drain cells (under 10A) in all my W1’s.
Oh, so Forward Current and Forward Current Pulsed from that table on Page 3. I should have seen that 
Sounds like the actual amperage is dependent on driver design though so the data sheet is not useful for battery selection like I was hoping.
Thanks for answering! Sounds like I should maximize capacity and not worry much about current.
Yep.
Not sure if you’ve seen this but Djozz did some testing of various Osram options. Some good info.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/osram-cslnm1-tg-culnm1-tg-1mm-cslpm1-tg-culpm1-tg-2mm/53735/30
Looks useful, I’ll go and read up on it. Thanks!
I thought he used closer to a 5A driver for the w1 d1v2 like Simon does, so when I read this I went that can’t be right, grabbed my w1 d1v2 and my special tailcap-amps-multimeter with custom made extra thicc tailcap amp leads and, I’ll be damned, it’s exactly 3A continuous, 3.3A peak.
At least I know my multimeter is calibrated.
Here you go:
Where is the 5A figure coming from then? Is that max amperage for some of the other common emitters sold in the D1v2?
I think because his standard linear driver was 5A, convoy used 5A (although mine are 4.5A, even if I try different 5A linear drivers I still only get 4.5A with the w1), Ive heard people say hank uses the 5A linear (maybe it does on the K1?), so I assumed he was probably using about the same here. Idk, never really gave it much thought.
People always say his linear drivers are 2.5A, 5A, 7.5A, 9A and 12A. Nice pretty numbers. But I havent found that to be true. My w2 blue pulls just under 4.5A, my w2 green closer to 6A. It’d be really easy for him to pick any number he wanted, there’s no reason he has to stick to those nice even multiples, it’s just resistors. Plus there’s a lot of variables and theres variation between even the exact same drivers.
Are you using a clamp-style amp meter or a DMM in amp mode? If it’s the latter, that would explain the lower expected amps measured (because of the voltage drop caused by the shunt resistor inside the DMM, and also the DMM leads).
For that last one? No I used my special tailcap-amps-multimeter with custom made extra thicc tailcap amp leads, solid copper insulated grounding wire that I kinda hammered to a banana jack. It matches my clamp meter until like 7-8A. Multimeter is rated for 20A, highest I’ve seen on it is 18A then the screen went blank. Still works. I keep waiting for it to die but it won’t quit.