The et26 does not have anodized threads, so no tailcap lockout. There's a chance the X60 does. If not, I don't see how it's any worse. The tail clickie is mechanical. Not sure about the side clickie, but I hope it's an electronic switch. I doubt I'll be modding one for another month, and Tom E will probably have modded his and told us all about it long before then.
I’m pretty sure…I have one dead paper weight right here :Sp
ugh… little too late, I was suggesting group buy on these warsun light and the best price they can come up for X60 is $19.99 if i’m not mistaken 
Didn't get the X60 yet, but it seems to use a straight 26650. Maybe the GB quote included the suit set? The set adds a 26650 and the chargerfor $36.59 - battery is a joke Warsun 5400 26650 
... They raised the price for just the flashlight from $23.58 to $24.99 since I ordered mine.
I got my a10 in the mail today. It’s my first “real” light. I’m very impressed with its build quality and size.
But I think I have a problem. When I plug it in to charge the batteries, the light turns on and cannot be shut off. Basically for me to charge it, the light has to stay on. This is not normal, right? Can anyone help?
You’ll probably tell me to get a good charger and charge the batteries externally, but for now I can’t do that and would like to use the on board charger.
blfdemigod, DayLighter and others: please note this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27496
The pill top on these lights is not good for high amps.... To me it looks like after the anodizing, they machined out an indented circle at about 13-14 mm in diameter and about 0.27 mm deep. I'm thinking maybe they did it to correct an elevated surface but went too deep with the machining, so they simply filled the significant gap with lots of Fujik-like grease.
Anyone know what these lights do in stock amps?
Warsun is saying the lights can run for hours on high, so there is nothing wrong with the design. I'm not sure they understand thermal designs, and how inefficient thermal grease is compared to metal-to-metal contact...
I measured, in high mode 2,6A to LED.
DayLighter… I’m sorry to challenge you but I have to get to the bottom of this. I’d like to put two good 26650’s in my A10 (keeppowers), but I’m terrified to do so after what you said.
I used my tester to check the voltage on the “battery stick” that came with my A10. Physically, it looks like two 26650’s put together. I have an analog meter so I can’t tell you exactly how many volts there are but it’s about 7.2 or 7.3 volts… which goes against what you’re saying.
What do you think?
Still waiting for my MX900 and X60.
Based on earlier generation of MX900, it was rated 2.8V~14V on DX I do not see why newer version is unable to achieve that. It is just not practical to use only proprietary batteries.
DayLighter is on a long holiday. I have his A10 to repair. What I found was the driver is fine - it's working, so there was probably something else that went wrong. Here's the driver that came with, or at least was in, the A10 when I got it:
As you can see, there's no inductor - only an unlabeled 8 pin chip that stands out. This does not look like any buck circuitry to me. There has to be something there doing buck in order to support more than one cell in series. Also, his A10 that he gave me did not have any "pack" in it and is the size to fit one 18650 or 26650 cell - that's all. Could be he didn't give me the extender tube, dunno. Funny the driver has the X60A label on it too. Maybe he got an early or odd version of an A10? I really don't know what happened here. I believe the wires to the LED were not connected when he gave it to me, so maybe he swapped drivers? Could be - in his attempt to trouble-shoot the problem, he was swapping drivers and left an X60 driver in there?
Do you have an A10 to compare? I can open mine if you’d like and take some pictures if needed.
No, no other A10, but I do have a stock X60. Not that important - you don't have to - I'll have to wait for DayLighter to explain - my plan was to strip the stock driver and piggyback a FET based DD driver, so I don't want to strip the wrong driver. Either he got a funky A10, or he swapped parts around. Your A10 driver probably looks like the one in post #5 above, with the big inductor to buck voltage down.
Tested my stock Warsun X60, using a freshly charged KingKong 4200 cell (from CNQ). Here's what I get:
2.57A at the tail, lumens: 510 @start, 462 @30secs, 28 kcd throw
Compared to a stock Yezl Y3:
2.67A at the tail, lumens: 850 @start, 802 @30secs, 60.5 kcd thrwo
Even though the X60 is slightly less in power and reflector size, the lumens should be much closer than the results show. As mentioned earlier in this thread, the LED alignment piece is the kind that blocks a lot of light, and this shows in these results.
Even the stock F13 clone we got on the group buy does close to this: 2.0A tail, lumens: 493 @start, 442 @30 secs.
Lo and behold my A10:
I went to check to see if I had something similar to post 5 like you said. Looks like I bought a crappy light? Can’t charge it (broken internal charger), can’t put 2 batteries in it like it’s advertised (maybe), poor heat management, poor(ish?) light output…
Good thing I ordered a C8.
This is getting weirder - On the BG page for the A10, it has the "suit set" option that includes a "battery stick", which looks like 2 cells in series - you have the battery stick and it measures ~7.2v, which is about 1/2 charged (new cells when shipped are usually at 3.6v or so) if in series (definitely not in parallel), but the specs listed say "3.7v-4.2n", implying single cell or parallel battery stick, which looks right for this driver. I just dunno what's goin on... Wish the OP could help but he seems offline for weeks now.
Stock these lights, to me, are a disappointment. However they are a decent light to mod up. They do have a problem with the poorly designed emitter shelf, as detailed in this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27496, but you may be able to work on that. To me, it could be putting out 50% more lumens. but the beam pattern may not end up looking as nice. Some reflector designs need this type of blocking LED alignment piece to create a good looking hot spot, but it sacrifices total output big time.
Yea I bought the suite set. It was an extra 15 euros. In the end, I can’t use the charger that it came with (the built in charger on mine is defective), which means I can’t use the battery stick it came with - because where the heck am I going to find a charger to fit it in.
BG refunded me 30%, which was less than 10 euros.
I should’ve just got an x60. Or a different brand altogether.
Any update, Tom E or DayLighter?
No - sorry - no time to get back to the Warsun's yet.
I’m thinking to write to Mr Fang, just a try…