The firmware has different “channel modes”. You could configure it to use modes 1, 2, and 3… or 1, 2, and 4. Modes 1 and 2 are “channel 1 only” and “channel 2 only”, while channel 3 is “both (max 200% power)” and “both (adjustable, limit 100% power)”. Then you would use 3C to switch between these 3 channel modes.
Flavor 2:
Use channel mode 4 only, the “both (adjustable, max 100% power)” mode. This is the “tint ramp” mode, which uses 3H to change the “tint”. But you want only the two endpoints and a halfway mix in the middle, so you’d probably want to use stepped tint ramping. This is available as an option. From off, do a 9H, let go at the first blink, then click 3 times to set tint ramping to 3 steps. Afterward, 3H while on goes between the 3 tint steps.
In both cases, you’ll need to turn off the other channel modes. Use “ramp → 9H” for this. It goes through the channel modes one at a time. Release at the channel mode you want to edit, then click 0 or 1 times to turn that mode off or on.
HI, I just received a new M44. Hank did a custom arrangement to my request, which I decided to go for, after some discussions of the project on TLF. This is:
Channel 1 has 8x 519A in 4500K DD.
Channel 2 has 4x W1 in white and 4x W1 in amber.
The goal was to get a warm CCT Thrower and Flooder which operates nicely with both channels together, as well. Following I attach some impressions of how these look.
I am not an expert photographer. I used the two camera apps I have on my iPhone. The color they show is not exactly realistic. Reality is a bit more rosy, no yellow, and, lucky me, not anything in the way of green.
Image 1 shows both channels together. Image 2 shows channel 1, this is 519A in 4500K DD. Images 3 shows channel 2, which has 4xW1 amber and 4x W1 white.
i’m torn between an M44 with W1 only and W2 only (or maybe a mix of both?) to get a throwy wall of light.
anyone who could share a comparison?
in turbo mode of course
that would be great!
W1 are more optimally driven at 2A/LED (max ~5A) while W2 are very underdriven. Also if you’re getting Osrams in it then you’re presumably trying to maximise throw, so W1 make more sense for that reason too.
I know this might be an odd question, but can someone confirm the the spring on the top of the battery tube is the positive contact and the ring along the walls is the negative contact?
I don’t have a married trio of batteries to check at the moment.
