very interested will buy like 10 if they have thermal paste 
also some pics of the saik sa too please if pill has nice thermal contact ?
Why not just get some themal paste .it's not that hard to put some poop under a heatsink ..seems like not a deal breaker
the drop down menu says "1".
no more 3-modes left ;)
Good thing I still managed to order the 3 mode. Their customer service are quick to answer my questions through email. Hopefully no regrets also once I get it.
Got 'em today. Two silver 3-mode ones. Took 16 days, not bad.
Both of them say "Ultrafire", build quality is good, modes High-Low-Strobe. TC currents with 14500 are consistent 1.16A & 0.28A
As you can guess from TC currents, they are not as bright as (original?) Sipiks from DD (which take about 1.80A and get hot quickly).
Mode memory takes (way too) long to engage => feels like the infamous "next mode memory".
Well.. At least they have the low mode for longer runtime.
Waiting and hoping.
Re thermal ā see the āhand lappingā description elsewhere. Thermal goop is not supposed to be thick, it should be a thin film between polished (ālappedā) surfaces, only where metal to metal contact isnāt happening. Itās a very big deal to do it right, but not hard. CPUs are done that way. Someday Iāll actually do it for my lights ā- maybe these are the right lights to start on.
Mine just arrived today, a silver 3-mode. I really like it. Nice and bright on high, nice smooth beam when zoomed out, decent low mode (but not low enough for me), and as _ the _ mentioned, irritating ānext modeā memory. Build quality is surprisingly good. Andā¦ it tailstands! Finally a super cheap tailstander with a clip and a low mode. It feels quite a bit more expensive that $6.70. I just ordered another one.
Almost a month has gone by and I havenāt received mine yet from Verosale. I hope it didnāt get lost in the mail or something.
Mine finally arrived. Says āHWA (lightning bolt icon) WYS UltraFireĀ® on one side, and āCree Q5ā on the other side.
Yep, it has the annoying next-level memory ā āyou used dim last time, so you must want rapid strobe this timeā
>tailstands
All the various SK68 clones I have tailstand.
Thought this one was DOA
ā no light at all with a Lithium Energizer primary, no light with an Energizer Alkaline, nothing with a NiMh
ā but with a 3.7v LiIon (AW brand) it does light up.
Bright is normal, about the same as a one-mode SK68 with the same battery.
Dim is dimmer, at least somewhat.
Strobe is fast and annoying. Well, ideal for crosswalk use anyhow, to get driversā attention when walking across the street.
Handy for that.
Scary rough edges on the bezel ā no smoothing at all on the three āteethā ā you can see the grinder marks where the cylinder was carved out to leave the three teeth sticking out, rough edges on the rough edges.
I wouldnāt put this bad boy in my pocket, itād chew its way out! Same for the āfinsā ā whatever was used to cut those grooves left curls of sharp metal at the ends of the cuts. I did actually cut myself ā the O-ring inside the bezel was in three pieces and fell out, and when I put in a replacement not only did the internal sharp bits cut the new one up, but my hand slipped. Owie.
First blood!
All in all ā this one needs a complete going-over with some kind of de-burring treatment. I suppose itās anodized, since the silvery color doesnāt look like aluminum.
Maybe I can smooth it off and spraypaint it.
So did I just happen to get one they forgot to smooth after shaping, or are yāallās also rough-edged?
I'm still waiting for the order I placed on June 26, when I emailed them on July 26 I was told to give it another week or so.
I really liked mine, the quality is definitely better than tomtop or UltraOK. It is probably on par with the 'original' SK68 (minus $3+ pricetag and add 3-modes, this is a really good buy!).
The only drawback is that the 3-mode is sequential, but I'll live with it. One of mine already replaced my car spare light, the dim and blinky is good for emergency.
I added 12x2mm neo magnet to the clip (no glue needed), that can hold the light on any position on the car. Now it is quite a true emergency light.
Any other things interesting on that website?
That C8 XML is cheap but who knows whats the quality, now they started manafacturing lots of C8 with T6 emmiters, but with lower and lower quality (of everything), like previously with C8s with Q5 emmiter
Pulsar, does yours work with an alkaline or NiMH AA cell?
(Mine only works with a li-ion cell, not with the 1.2 or 1.5v cells ā donāt know how long itāll go, havenāt tried it on a heat/runtime run yet.
Does yours have sharp edges on the notches?
I can carve a curly little slice off the edge of a wooden board with the sharp edges of the bezel prongs, on the one I got.
Still decent for the price but Iām wondering what itāll look like once I file and buff down the thin metal ābladeā edges the grinder left on this one.
Yes, they work perfectly with standard AA, minus the 14500 brightness. Your boost circuitry may be shot.
My edges are quite defined but not to the point of being sharp, especially not the way you mentioned.
Thanks Pulsar; I emailed them to see if theyāll replace this one.
I donāt mind the sharp edges so much, but the poor lit-up-time performance makes it hardly worth carrying outside the house.
So, another question ā are you using a protected AA Li-ion? How far down does the light drain your battery voltage before it goes dark?
Definitely need a protected li-ion. All SK68/variants uses boost circuitry, it will drain unprotected li-ion batteries beyond repair.
I use lithium primary for the spare (in-car) for the shelf life. For EDC, I use protected 14500 marsfire from MF. But take note, trustfire flame 14500 seem to provide similar performance for $1 less per pack.
Using my 1-mode previously I got around 30-40minutes runtime on high before shutoff. Now using 3-mode I use low most of the time, the runtime is a LOT longer, definitely at least double, but I just never timed it. Should be close to 1.5-2hr mark. Definitely a very good 14500 runtime by my standard.
Harrumph. EDITED āSEE BELOW ā¦ They offered a partial refund for the light I got that quits at 3.3v.
I replied Iād rather buy several moreā if theyād test them with AA alkaline cells first and be sure they worked ā- and pointed them here saying I thought other readers would also like to buy known good lights from them, if they can verify theyāre selling working lights.
If driver boards for these SK68 clones were available, Iād have taken the refund and just improved the insides ā but right now, when nobody seems to offer a decent driver that will fit into these Sipik clones, so even this ā2 mode with wrong memoryā light theyāre selling is worth getting.
If they sell lights that work.
I wonder if theyāre just passing orders on to someone far away who pulls and ships boxes, or if they can actually put hands on (and batteries in ) lights to be sure theyāre selling good ones.
Weāll see, maybe.
EDIT Aug. 1 ā ok, better answer.
They offered a replacement once I told them Iād like to buy a few more of these lights if I could rely on them working.
They said theyāve checked a bunch of them and confirmed their stock does work with alkaline AAs.
They say they get the light from several different factories and the feedback from buyers helps them figure out if they got a bad batch.
Sounds like if one factory is screwing up theyāll deal with that. Iām not quoting them directly but thatās the gist of it.
So ā Iāll take another chance with them.
And I invited them here again. Hope theyāll speak up if they decide to read.
I think sites like this one can contribute ideas freely and eagerly, and the manufacturers and designers in China can benefit as can the readers.
Hi Hank,thank you for the help. 
And also Pulsar13,and others who join this discussion here.We will read this forum more.We take care every order we received,and never stop to find better quality for our clients.Thank you guys! :bigsmile:
gginobi, if you can track which supplier you used for my order #1410125, then use that supplier. The product is perfect (except the no-memory mode UI, but not much choice there). That's the best build of all SK68 I own, even beating the 'original' $10 Sipik SK68 from Manafont (the build is very similar but verosale one is a bit more solid on zoom tightness).
If you can maintain this quality, I don't think you'll have a problem with selling them. I think I'll also be buying more soon.
>> which supplier you used for ā¦ order #1410125, then use that supplier. The product is perfect ā¦.
And pass Pulsar13ās comments on to whoever supplies those (heck, to whoever builds them, if you can track that far back up the supply chain).
The more we can encourage attention to good work, the more truly budget work will be done, and that should reward everyone starting from the builder of the hardware.
Iāll have a report when my second order gets here. Hope I have the same good fortune with that one.
(Now, if you can get someone building solid copper LED pills, who understands polishing surfaces to match allowing just a tiny film of heat transfer goop ā like should be done mounting a computer CPU on a heatsink ā- youāll be really making budget lights (higher output, longer life, through better heat transfer. After all, a CPU and a LED are both semiconductor devices that need the same cooling.)