"Tactile switches" is actually so called "forward clicky", you press lightly (not all the way down until it clicks) and it makes a contact, if you release the light will go OFF or if you press all the way down you will hear "click" and light will stay ON.
Ordinary clicky switch is, I believe "reverse clicky", you have to press it all the way down until it clicks and onli then it will make a contact and power ON the light... I think :P
Electronic switch, as we call it, is not actually switch...
P.S. would be nice if FT could carry this micro push buttons like those from sparkfun :)
P.S.S. I was just poking around and found out that Atiny13A has 4 pins connected to each of 4 stars:
star 1 -> pin 4 or GND
star 2 -> pin 5
star 3 -> pin 3
star 4-> pin 2
so, theoretically it should be possible to add one more (or even 2) push button and then define short click on one as UP and on another button as DOWN, click and hold as POWER OFF, double click as dual-pulse etc, etc...
A tactile switch is a non-locking (i.e. momentary) switch, while a clicky is locking.
An electronic switch refers to switching power not with a mechanical switch (like a clicky), but with an electronic component like a Transistor (or an MCU and some AMC7135s).
I only learned that recently and I have to adapt my descriptions…
Star 1 is sort of a dummy, I don’t really know why they did that. But indeed, one could attach 3 buttons to that driver. Or two buttons and a status LED. Or…
And with three stars available you could select eight different mode groups instead four groups by connecting multiple stars to ground. Or you could get really freaky and use the ADC channels on pins 2 and 3 along with various resistors to ground to select a whole bunch of different groups.
Texaspyro: Yes, when I find the time I’ll probably do a basic firmware with mode groups (8) selectable by soldering bridges and make the hex file public.
Though about
2nd star: 3 modes/4 modes;
3rd star: mode order low to high/the other way around,
4th star: memory/no-memory
When I had this board set up for testing it was brilliant - short/long press timings were easy to use, all was well.
And then I went to put it together in the light
Getting a good solder join onto the pin on the Attiny13 is was a bit of a problem for me. I think I might have toasted the chip on the NANJG101 board.
Does anyone know if there is an alternative solder point to the Attiny pin on the 1.4a board for the switch?
With the NANJG101 it’s difficult, there’s no star or anything else. However it’s ok if you make a bigger solder blob covering the two pins in the middle, that should be easier to solder.
Could this setup be used with a zener diode mod (eg, pic in first post of Solarforce K3 Modded & Compared - Pics w/Vid *Pic Heavy* ) and a bunch of stacked 7135s to drive an MT-G2? If so, please send me a PM about availability and shipping 2 units to California.
Nope. Not with any of the various FWs I've used it with. It does screw up the low voltage detection though, other than that they all seem to work fine.
Dr Jones has been very helpful, providing me with several Mobydrvs, one of which is wired with 2 x 700ma channels. My intention was to use it with 2x18650 batteries in parallel (i.e.; 3.7-4.2v) to simultaneously drive separate front and rear running (‘be seen’) lights on my cargo bike.
I understand that the Mobydrv is a linear driver and simply provides battery voltage while keeping the current constant. I had intended simply using a cluster of 2-3 white power LEDs in 2P or 3P at the front, their vf being around 3v anyway. However I’m having trouble figuring out how to set up the rear light and would appreciate some help.
My problem is in matching the lower vf of the rear red LEDs to battery voltage. If I use red power LEDs and put them in series (maybe 2S2P) then won’t vf be 4v or more? Will this mean the LEDs will have trouble firing up? If I just use red power LEDs in parallel (2P or 3P) won’t this mean that the supply voltage will likely exceed the max voltage of the LEDs?
Should I just maybe go to a 3S NiMH supply (2.8-3.6V). Would this be a better compromise in matching the front and rear voltage requirements? Or am I misunderstanding how the Mobydrv works…?
I guess I should also say that my thinking is further muddied (muddled) by a perverse ambition to maybe try substituting some strings of 1/2W (100ma) red ‘straw hat’ LEDs for the rear light - I like the idea of a large array!
Many people have just used a red LED with a NANJG without further measures to adapt the voltage; it seems to work just fine. Also the resistance of the longish wires to the rear LEDs will help a bit.
