Is it possible to Mod a Lenser TT Police Tactical???
I really like the torch …………………………………………… when I 1st switch it on …………………………………………… but the “Step Down” is a joke.
It’s the sort of size I’m after and is that much smaller and a bit lighter than their T7.2 but switch it on and in a short space of time the step down kicks in and it’s half the output.
I wouldn’t mind if it had less run time (as long as I could keep it to at least 1 1/2 hrs) but at a more consistent level even if that was at a slightly lower level than the quoted
270 lm.
If anyone can help it’d be much appreciated although whilst I’m fairly familiar with soldering things I’ve never modded a torch before so may need a bit of hand holding and guidance both in terms of parts and also what to actually do.
Any help appreciated as always!!!
EDIT / PS: If it was also possible that the low setting wasn’t as low but more usable that’d be a bonus but certainly not a must!!!
Like most lights, it is quite possible to mod an LED Lenser. I’ve modded some myself though I do not own your particular model. That said, they usually aren’t the easiest lights to mod.
LED Lensers have the great zooming optic that wraps around the LED and is superior to what is found in cheap zoom lights. The LED is mounted on a pillar so it can raise into the recess in the back of the optic.
Depending on the model, some Lensers have unusual internal structures. For instance, the driver on my M1R is a rectangular thing stuffed sideways in the neck of the flashlight then surrounded with glue … definitely a change from the typical coin-shaped driver board found in most lights.
The particular model you have is powered by 3xAAA cells. These cells aren’t capable of much output and may limit how much you can upgrade the light. For best results you’ll need to upgrade to li-ion.
Mods you might want to try on this light:
Driver and emitter swap - Replace the driver with a better one from Mountain Electronics. If you want 250 lumens output and are willing to emitter swap to XPL HI, figure you need maybe 750mAh of current. A driver board with 2x7135 chips on it should be sufficient.
Replace the battery carrier and AAA cells with a single IMR 18500 cell (Get Efest Purple 18500 from Mountain Electronics). Runtime at max power should be 1.3 hours.
Consider seeing if you can free up space in the neck or tailcap of the light to allow for a larger 18650 cell. If successful, this would increase runtime at max power to almost 5 hours. Note however, that this kind of structural change is a very advanced mod.
Optionally, you may wish to consider going with a driver with more 7135 chips or even a FET. This would greatly increase brightness, but runtime at max power would be very short. However, you could get a multi-mode driver that would allow you to run at lower power when you need longer battery life. The very best clicky driver available is the DrJones H17F (also at Mountain Electronics), but I do not know if it will fit in your light.
These mods probably wouldn’t be all that simple or easy. As a mod project I would probably rate this as “hard”. Even for an experienced modder this kind of mod could take 10 hours or more.
Since you have no previous mod experience, I do not recommend starting with this light. Instead buy some very cheap $5 budget lights and practice on them. When you gain experience and feel confident in your modding skills then graduate to the LED Lenser.
Firelight2,
Cheers for that … the idea of possibly being able to mod this so it could take an 18650 and give approx 250 l for about 5 hrs has really got my interest … I’d be blown away with that!!! but as you say I don’t have any previous experience.
I keep going to order things from Mountain Electronics but their delivery cost to the UK is horrendous … often considerably more than the products I was going to order which is such a shame.
Think you’re right I’d have to start with something “cheap” and see how I got on with that … although that said if I fitted the same bits your suggesting into a cheap zoomie in essence I’d end up with what I was looking for anyway … probably.
Cheers for all your input … it’s much appreciated!!!
It’s true. A cheap zoomie with upgraded led, driver, and beefier wires, run on a decent imr cell, will impress(as long as you don’t melt the switch! ). I have a $5 zoomie with these mods and it is my go-to light as it compares in utility to my much nicer ones, without the worries of losing it, etc.
Really made me think actually … I have a good old Sipik 98 which obviously takes an 18650 … it’s not nearly as bright as the Lenser TT … BUT …… in an ideal world, could I get that to the same brightness as the Lenser and make the zoom narrower (ideally) and without the zoom going “square” … in other words replicating the TT but giving a consistent level of output (or a bit less) than the Lenser when you 1st switch it on???
Definitely. As a start you could try to identify the led and upgrade it and the star that it is mounted on. Beef up the wires, and order a higher output driver. As far as the beam, it being square indicates that it is in perfect focus, as it is projecting the led die shape, which gives it maximum throw. You can make it round by defocusing it, but then you will lose throw.
An experiment I did with an Aleton N8. This was a true mule with nothing in front of the LED except a flat lens. However, unlike other mules, this one could also zoom: Mod: Zoomable mule
Some mods to my favorite budget zoomie. I sure wish the stock N8 were still available. The AA version is available everywhere, but I haven’t seen the 18650 version for sale in at least a year: Modding the Aleto N8
My first Sipik 58 mod. Back then I was experimenting with a reflector behind the aspheric lens. Result was a brighter flood mode, but the spot sure looked ugly. Modded Sipik 58
). I have a $5 zoomie with these mods and it is my go-to light as it compares in utility to my much nicer ones, without the worries of losing it, etc.