What are these empty pads? Are these connected to the R020 resistors? Could the R020 resistors be bypassed by bridging these pads?
Don`t know. They are covered in fujick and heatsinks on my driver now. As long as Im happy with mine, I don't plan to open up mine for any more modding or experimenting with it.
On my light the tailcap was easy to unscrew.
thanks for the mod idea. I also received a fandyfire warrior from wallbuys. I wired over 3 resistors, moved emitters onto 16mm sinkpads, and for heatsinking put in about 6mm copper plate under the aluminium shelf. This gets held in place by the screw for the reflector (copper reduced to 1mm at screw, so I could use the original screw that is not very long). It worked as expected afterwards - and it is certainly a fair bit brighter, and heats up more and faster. i’m pleased with the outcome.
No glue present on any threads in my light.
tacky smelly clear paste used to hold down driver.
very liquid white paste used to hold down emitters - once the reflector is removed they come off with a slight touch. the clean up just needed a wipe with a tissue.
I can’t notice any PWM - but never noticed it on other lights either.
The noted empty pads on the driver (above) are not directly connected to the resistor. I couldn’t visually follow the board, so used a multimeter.
:beer:
Welcome to the forum! :)
I did the resistor mod on my original release FF Warrior with XM-L but everything else is bone stock. Running Sony VTC5 cells I read 2600-2700 lumens in the IS. I'm sure it would increase more with tail spring mods as well as upgraded wiring and XM-L2 on Noctigons.
Nice JM!
Yupp, on top of the resistor mod I roughly say the mods I did might give around:
15-20% increase for XM-L2s
Maybe another 5-10% for the resistance mods.
About 10% for copper mcpcbs at that current.
Should make your number come really close to mine. Only marginally higher or lower depending on the values you would assume for each mod. Seems like we are quite close.
I still don't have a 100% exact method for doing lumen measurements. Still tweaking. My setup is not suitable for the low lumen numbers, and I don't have an integrating sphere. So it is what it is.
For me the important thing is the tint and CRI improvement along with the increased output.
Hi all,
Is it an issue that we received Fandyfire instead of Solar storm lights in the sale? I don’t know if there is a difference between the 2,apart from price?, but I would prefer the Solar storm branding…. :Sp Not sure if I should take it up with wall buys or not?(It was a great sale price,not complaining about that…)
Thanks
Anton
I’m between the HD2010 and the Warrior…Which one will blow me away more?
I know someone’s gona say buy both-but I’m gona stick with one for now… just bought two eoslamp sp11’s and a dqg iv, so I’m set for a while. 
Im quite sure its the same light with different logo.
On a sidenote. The light is now available with XM-L2 emitters. But branded as Palight.
Or you going to mod the light you buy?
What will you be using it for?
Solarstorm T4 is probably a better WOW light stock since its extremely powerful out of the box. Tint on that light is worse though. But that depends on what type of WOW you want. Flood WOW, or throw WOW? :p
I’m not quite sure…I have plenty of decent small lights… Fandyfire s3 clone and Sunwayman V10r ti, nitecore sens mini are probably my brightest.
I’m thinking maybe a flooder since I have some decent-ish throwers….idk I seem to like throw more, but a nice light that could fill up a room sounds fun. Plus variable output is a plus. Probably won’t mod any time soon.
The warrior is a fairly good around flooder, but lacks a proper low.
T4 is probably one of the brightest well made floody lights that you can get for 29$. Personally I would not buy it and use it with the stock emitters, but that is due to my tint preferences. I would prefer the Warrior stock vs stock due to tint, UI, and overall size.
If you can stretch your budget, maybe check out RMM`s M6. You can buy it from mtnelectronics. Or check with some modders in the US. Occasionally there are some pretty decent modified SRK`s sold for around 50-60$ including shipping.
If you want throw, id say the same. Get a fully modified light with a de-domed emitter and FET driver or a light with 2 cells in series and a 5amp buck driver. Something like that.. If you want to be "blown away", id say you have to go with a modded light IMO. Especially when it comes to throwers.
Hmm, you’re right…I should wait and research more…but ya know- NEEEEED LIGHT!! 
hello, could you estimate the real stock lumens (on hi) of the Solarstorm Warrior ? second question… does the hi mode stay at max power all times or is there any kind of timed step down like after 5min, 10 min… etc ?
i noticed that does exist another version of this flashlight that it is the same but only change the front leds, wich is THE SAME as Solarstorm RAGING ( 6 emitters).
wich one would you think it is better?
Austime, the copper plate makes good contact with the body? I might be interested in one if I can afford it 
edit: Oops. See that you’re in Aus, shipping alone would kill me 
I’m the one who said PWM was horrid. Is there a way to use the Hz function on a DMM to measure pwm frequency?
Race, that’s a nice simple mod for huge gains in current draw. Thanks man!
Thanks for the mod info! Was it hard getting the driver out for you? How did you do it? I’m afraid to break mine or burn out one of the XML2s really…
If you only have small lights, and you aren’t modding things Warrior will definitely blow you away. Warrior and HD2010 are very different lights, you can try to compare apples to oranges I guess. The only real reason for HD2010 that I can see is throw. I would never advise HD2010 unmodded, its kind of a plain, too big, OK tasting apple, nothing special, if we are going to continue with this analogy. I got one, not very impressed with it at all, any common C8 or L4 seems to have the same or comparable throw and easier to carry with better tints for a lot less, if you want throw. You also have to buy different batteries than you have to really fully appreciate it too (26650s), and I seem to notice PWM in mine too. If you want throw I’d get an L4 or C8 with a nice tint.
Warrior is going to produce a lot more light in a big floody beam, and mine seems to have good throwiness to it, but I do have XML2 version. I dont know what advantage HD2010 has to compare, just plain throw. Warrior somehow feels a lot smaller than SRKs in your hand, even though the difference in size is not much, and feels better in your hand than the unbalanced, smaller yet bigger at the same time HD2010. The modes in Warrior are so much more versatile and better than HD2010 standard L/M/H/strobe/SOS, thats pretty incomparable too. HD2010 are also very variable, like SRKs, so you are very unsure of what you are actually buying. The switch position is also so much nicer, making HD2010 even more unwieldy in comparison. Both HD2010 and Warrior may have visible PWM to some people, one of the crappy HD2010s I got even had audible PWM on high, but at least Warrior only has low and some of ramp range possible PWM noticible. I don’t think they are very comparable at all.
Even though I think Warrior is better in every way than HD2010 other than throw, I’m not sure exactly why, but the 1.5 second turn on is annoying when coming from using a light that doesn’t have it. But its easily gotten over when you realize you can always press and hold the other button and get instant turn on for however long you hold your finger on the button if you really need it, 1s to end of battery power. Some don’t seem to realize this, I’m not sure why. You CAN do morse code with it too, but the minimum on is almost 1s, so its going to be slow morse code, if you are into doing morse code that could be annoying I guess, but its similar to programmed morse codes of SOS so again I don’t see a problem here unless you are an avid morse code person.
After taking out the switch, I used a small screwdriver to knock out the driver. Mine had a little glue holding it in. (glue is necessary since there is no shelf). WRT the tailcap, mine was stuck on good. I used two bicycle tubes for grip and got it open.
I did not measure lumen output when it was stock. Its some time since I modded the light now. But based on OP, 9,5A was more than double. Im guessing stock it was around 4,5A (divided on 3 emitters). Probably around 1500lumen OTF. I thought I had read about other Warriors having more than 2000, but I may be wrong, or its just different drivers..
As seen in OP, on the modified lights there is a "stepdown" after 5-6 minutes (on the modified light). I cant comment on the behavior of the stock light. I believe its a form of stepdown. (I can mention that my modified Solarstorm T4 also have a form of stepdown but it kicks in much sooner).
I have not seen the same light with 6 emitters. Link?
In general, there is no "best". Its a question of what you use the light for. When that is said, I prefer to stick to 3-4 emitters in these SRK type lights. Less emitters means larger reflectors and more range. These lights usually have enough flood IMO. (In short, more emitters means more flood and more lumens)
The Solarstorm raging I know is a larger light with a handle, 5 emitters and a mechanical switch at the back. I own one, or a clone. Its brighter and larger. But there is no pill in it. Heatsinking is not well suited for extended use on high unless you put some work in the light.
As a stock light, or a simple mod light, I prefer the warrior over the Solarstorm Raging im familiar with.
[quote=eebowler]
Is there a way to use the Hz function on a DMM to measure pwm frequency? Race, that's a nice simple mod for huge gains in current draw. Thanks man!
[/quote]
Yes, solder two wires to one emitter (one on negative, one on positive). Connect the DMM wires to those and measure Hz.
:beer:
Im not sensitive to low PWM. Unless its raining. Not a huge fan of using this (or any lights with low PWM) in the rain. High is no problem though.
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_36786.html
here there is the same flashlight, called L2 . it does have 5 led like the solarstorm RAGING, same front part. maybe it is better than the version with 3 led (warrior).
my doubt is wich flood fat flashlight is better…. the version with 3 led or 5 that i linked here? of these solarstorm i like the body with only 3 x18650 that is better than the classic kinfire/skyray/kingfire clones with 4x 18650.
I don’t have one, but off the bat I can say that one will have a fatter head, be heavier, have less throw distance, cost a lot more and probably close to the same lumen output. The only bonus is it will be more “efficient” if you want a long run time. If you are going to go up in price range and wanted more lumens in a similar size, I would probably get a M6 modded by RMM, but its a lot heavier, bigger and 4x18650.
Ah, the L2. I have been looking at that. Very interesting flashlight. I have yet to hear from anyone who have bought one. Thread about the light here. I like it, although the reflector design could have been better as I described here in that same thread.
Im basically just repeating what B42 said, but better is subjective.
Warrior is smaller, lighter, cheaper, and probably more ergonomic/better to hold. Does that make it better compared to the L2?
L2 can handle heat better due to the larger head/size (assuming its got a pill), it is most likely driven harder and have more lumen output, if not, its most likely more efficient with more emitters. Not a huge difference in beam pattern but the L2 will have less artifacts in the main beam due to not having overlapping reflectors. Although it will probably have some "strangeness" in the outer spill due to how the light hits the bezel (similar issue with the Solarstorm raging). I dont think it will have less throw at similar current compared to the L3 (like B42 indicates). Probably very similar range due to the larger head.
As for size..
Warrior is slimmer compared to the gold SRK
Compare the head of the "solarstorm raging" (third from the left) vs the same gold SRK in this picture.. Quite a difference. Especially from the front.
(Pictures from my review of the Letterfire LF-868)
Might mention the L3 as well. One of the threads on that here. Here are some pictures where I compared the Warrior with the L3 and some others:
L3 have a fairly strange form factor, and not that high output compared to the size and emitter count. Modified Warrior (like in OP) easily outperforms stock L3 in terms of output.