Siata’s does have XP-L V6 2C’s, but I have yet to build another that matches those numbers. 3800 or so is the best I’ve seen since. Standard variance? Got lucky with that set? His needs all it can muster, as he changed out the spot lens and put a wide diffuser lens in it that robs him of nearly 1000 lumens. Seriously.
I bought the XP-L V6’s in my new quad as a 1A bin. I’m now told there is no V6 1A bin. The best they could be is V5’s sold as V6’s. This comes from someone else contacting Cree directly. I had intended to de-dome them but didn’t when I built the Quad as they fit in the optics. But I didn’t like the tint very much. So yesterday I attempted to de-dome them. And failed. For some reason the newer XP-L’s seem to have crumbly domes on them and they don’t just pop off like they used to. In the process of trying to clean up the die, I got phosphor off and this resulted in a visible area of blue on the die and a blue ring in the light.
So. I busted my chops breaking the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive loose to get the copper sink out. I couldn’t reflow it in the head of the light as I’ve done in the past because of the 4 Trits I’ve put in it. I only had 3 V6 3D emitters, so I opted to use 2 of the 3D and 2 2C. I figured on gluing the optic in to protect the emitters. And forgot to do so. One of the 2Cs got the seal broken on the dome, it didn’t pop clear but it didn’t look right under the optic and was obviously “damaged”. So again I opened it up and managed to pop out the optic, de-domed the 2 2Cs. That worked out pretty well, but in the entire process it appears that one of the 2C’s didn’t re-flow in exactly the same position so it’s not directly under the TIR in the optic, which is why the dome got damaged I’m sure.
It’s working fine, warmer than I’d have liked, and shows about 4300 lumens in the box. But my 4578 is gone… And I was SOOO hopeful that the V6’s would actually bump it into the 4600’s. Such is life.
When I first built it, I used thermal paste under the Cu sink from Nitro and only glued in the top layer of my discs, such that only about a 1/4” of the top was glued into the head. This is how I was able to take it apart. Now the entire thing is glued in. It ain’t coming apart easily again!! (Not that it was easy yesterday)
Not to be thwarted, I searched the world over and thought I’d found true love, she found another and Pffft she was gone….uh, oops! I mean I searched the world over and found some Ledil CUTE-4 SS in stock and have 3 of those on the way to me now. :bigsmile:
My momma always said, in a sing song voice, “If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again!”
Sorry to hear you had a frustrating day of modding also, yesterday i totally failed in getting an XP-L to work in my little Hugsby xp-1, it works in the head when i apply power & on the tube if i short out the bottom, but as soon as i screw in the switch bottom it refused to work.
But the strange thing i can’t figure out why, the same switch part works perfectly fine in another hugsby light.
Anyway it is my first modding failure & it stings a bit
I ordered my cute-4 optics from led-tech.de & i know another place in france that also sells them, where did you order yours from?
When i dedomed my XP-L V6 1A i first sliced of the top & then i dunked them in gas for a bit, that worked perfectly.
Yeah i have heard of this suspicion against the LEDDNA’s V6 1A, i asked nitro because he had some extra V6 1A from there if he could ask djozz if he would be willing to compare the V6 from LEDDNA & V5 from IOS and i could order it to him, if he don’t have some already.
But if djozz don’t want to maybe you could compare them?
If LEDDNA really is cheating us we need to know, because this place as a community spends a lot of money there.
Either your switch body isn’t snugging down and making ground when you put it on the light, or your cell is too long and pressing too hard on the mcpcb. If the light works from the tail with the switch off, and the switch works on another body, it’s got to be in the fitment of the switch housing to the battery tube. Not a failure, just needs some tweaking.
Cree says there’s no V6 1A, so there isn’t. I trust the guy that called em and found that out. Even if it’s a V5 instead, that’s only about 20-40 lumens difference ( or 80-160 lumens in a quad) which is totally insignificant up there at 3000 lumens and over.
Wrong to misrepresent though. Either way.
Edit: The X6 has a battery tube that can’t be flipped, it won’t work. Maybe your hugsby is like that? Double check that first, might be a really easy fix.
I wish there was something simple like that but i have several hugsbys body’s here and several switch parts & the hugsby’s can’t be screwed in from the wrong way around, it really is a mystery to me what i am missing.
I spend all day yesterday trying to figure out what is up, testing lots and lots of different ideas, & i even slept on it, i always get my best ideas in my sleep & i still can ’t figure out what i am missing.
I will have to take it all apart again, strip the driver and make it DD to remove as much that can interfere as possible and try again.
I suspect it is some short i am getting or some strange grounding problem but i have not been able to find where it is & how to fix it.
One possibility i am wondering about is if the switch somehow can’t take the amp and fail but doesn’t break, because it still works with another unmodded hugsby with the same battery & even exactly the same body :~
EDIT
I know it could be a fitment issue but i have tried with many different magnets in various thickness & width to try to determent if i could solve it, but nothing have worked, i even made a little solder blob on the driver for better contact between the flat headed Efest 10440.
But nothing i have tested have changed the only bug i have in the build, that the light refuses to work when i uses the switch to power it & the same switch still works perfectly fine in another similar light but only with the stock xp-e in it.
EDIT2
I borrowed my fathers hugsby xp-2 body & used a dummy aaa + the 10440, and somehow that worked & it flicked on for a second & blinked & then shorted out the led……
And now when i take it apart i can’t make it light up again at all, i cut out the star in the hope that it was only some driver component that was keep it shorted out, but no it is completely dead…….
Yes i have been thinking this also, the warmer the led the thicker the phozphor & therefore the lower flux efficiency, is what i have thought since learning of these things.
But it may be something more to this story, for example the highest XP-G2 S3 flux bin only exist in very warm 3C hue.
So what are we missing here? Why does it seems like it is easier for cree to make NW tints of XP-L & XP-G2 in the highest flux bin & not what conventional wisdom (or what believe it to be anyway ;)) would suggest, the tints that are the coldest and therefore have the thinest phosphor layer.
EDIT
Fixed some auto correction misspellings
If they sell 10,000 a month for industrial lighting application, that is what they will make. Maybe there isn’t much call for the ones we prefer, on the larger scale.
The tint mixed beam look nice
But i have to ask, you didn’t dedome the 3D right? only the 2 2C’s.
So now you got something like an combined 4B/3D hue at ~4700K & not 4B/5A hue at ~4300K like if you dedomed all of them.
Because the XP-L 3D are impossible to buy now, i have some 2A’s on order, that i am hoping should turn almost in to 3D’s after dedoming…….fingers crossed
The 3D’s have their domes on. I should have only de-domed the one 2C that was out of line with the optic. That would have minimized my losses and kept hues as good as possible. Oh well.
I don’t like the tint in most situations. Much prefer white. I have it very solidly glued together, not sure I can get it apart to re-do it without killing 4 tritium vials. What kind of heat can those take? Could they survive a re-flow of the entire head assembly? I’m probably about to find out. lol
I just dedomed & installed a XP-L V6 3A in my Zeusray
And i have to say i like the tint so far, it is no 3D of course, but here inside i like it the second best of all the tints i have seen so far. And the zoomed in die spot beam looks much nicer than the dedomed V6 1A i used before & that was already much nicer than every dedomed XM-L2 i have seen.
In flood it is a bit too warm compared to the 3D but still better than a 3C or 4C at least. It can be that it is just to bright also because i run it completely DD, i think i would like it more with less lumens.
I will have to wait till nightfall to see if it throws as good as the V6 1A.
I would guess it ended up maybe a 4D but probably with lower CRI than a true 4D tint. I have to add that i haven’t seen a 4D tint so it is only an estimate.
Fun isn’t it? And once you get started there’s no turning back…
I really didn’t like the tint in the X6 Quad with those 2 de-domed V6 2C’s in it. So I took a chance and, after taking out the driver and removing the o-ring, re-flowed the entire head to remove those 2 emitters. I had 2 V6 3D left, and used em. (stealing one I’d intended for my Texas Poker) So now it has all V6 3D in it, and it’s doing 4378 lumens…. just 200 lumens shy of what the 1A’s did initially. Can’t beat the tint, I’m happy again.
Nice, good that it all worked out in the end so the trits survived the reflow?
I wish i had 4 3D for my quad. Thats why i haven’t built it yet, the 3A’s i hoped would be good enough really wasn’t, so i couldn’t get motivated for only a bit more lumens but worse tint over the triple 3D, it has set the bar to high
If i remember thing right you use a dedomed led in your texas poker, maybe test one of the 2A dedomed in it, if we can’t find some more 3D for a while.
Now that i have tried it at night, i really really like the dedomed 3A
So much better tint in a thrower than the 1A dedomed, and somehow less hot in my hand but 5-10% brighter or should i say throwier, because i saw trees 200-250 meters away, the farthest i have seen with the 1A was 183 meter, but it was clearer atmospheric conditions tonight, than when i last used the 1A so that is probably a factor also.
Yes, the trit’s survived, somehow. This X6 head really gets rid of the heat! I’ve got the triple Cu sink in it plus 4 32mm discs at about the same thickness as the Noctigon 32mm star all under the pieced together 32mm of copper stars that are holding the XP-L’s. Normall I re-flow with the stove set on about 3 1/2. This took forever and I ended up at a little over 6 before the emitters were finally free! It was HOT!
I kept waiting for a pop from one of the vials or a lethal dose of tritium gas snaking out to get me or something.
And I was SOOO hopeful that the V6’s would actually bump it into the 4600’s. Such is life.
& i still can ’t figure out what i am missing.
