-open up the “reply” tab…
-click advanced editor
-put your mouse off image in the url
-click advanced and check the box use alternative image
-put that same url in the “mouse off” box
-put the mouse on link in the “mouse over” box…
save and RELOAD before you give up…I always have to reload before it works…
Another thing, The rubber grip comes in two parts a ring and the combat piece, I think that the rubber combat grip and ring needs to be stiffer, this one seems soft compared to surefire’s combat grip, in an emergency if you grip it too hard you might pull it off the flashlight, maybe one of surefire’s rubber grips might fit this light.
Possibly solarforce l2t would be better/easier to get I talked to a surefire rep a few months back and they said I couldn't buy a replacement ring for my c3.@alex the star seems to be the 30mm one used on the trustfire x9,if you can verify that I would appreciate it.
Measured with a ruler to 24mm, thanks for the info about the solarforce, I already tried ebay for the grip only found this, not sure if it fits at all or maybe they are something completely different
Thanks alex,my local gun shop sells surefire gear and I tried those on my light and bottom line is they stink.Surefire has discontinued all sorts of stuff and I even asked to buy a m3lt cigar grip and they outright said no.
Sorry zizo, I’m not opening that reflector again! The silicon seal was a major pain in the butt to put on right, the best I can measure is 52 mm inside the parabola (To the edge or reflecting surface) and maybe 54-55mm outside diameter, I only opened it up because it had lint and wanted a clean reflector, if it came clean I would not have messed with it in the first place.
There is some wiggle between the threads of the reflector and the heatsink while being tightened so I had to close it very slowly and carefully to make sure that the led was perfectly centered in the reflector since I am not using the centering ring anymore, it has better throw without it, IMHO.
I just received it.
Digital switch is little stiff, and making cheap noice, not so soft as on SkyRay King.
LED is not perfectly centered on my.
I was little confused that sideswitch is not on/ooff switch, just for changing modes… (Im not very thrilled about that and it doesnt seem practical…. It should have been on off switch too.)
But thats not important - whats most important is that is a shame, if reports are true, that stock driver is underdriving the LED:
I like that it always starts on high…
Has anybody measured lux on that lights.
Any more measurements of tailcap current?
All in all, light has many cons, but it looks good and I think its more than good for that price.
PS: Has anybody tried to change the driver on that light Will digital, secondarxyswitch interfere in such change??
I consulted searching for lux measurements for this eagletec, and I found this throw calculation based on lux measurements - so this eagletec throws something like Beamshot of 13 lights, September 2011
SkyRay STL-V2, 440 meters.
This flashlight definitely needs driver change.
Any ideas wich driver to pout in it.
Today Ill try to diassemble it to see wich size of drivers it will accept.
Such a shame it scomes with weak driver - so, the price turned out to be realistic. Not some awesome deal. With good driver it would be good deal
To be fair, even though the driver’s clearly not ideal, it’s not that terrible, either. These emitters deliver most of their light by 2A-2.5A anyway. Since this is ostensibly a thrower, you’ll only get maybe 25% more distance from 100% more power draw in any case.
I really wish Small sun would do the side switch on a general purpose 1x18650 light a la zebralight sc600.
Yes I tested it outside (I’ll refrain from talking about meters) and of course its not a bad thrower, and its suitable for most purposes.
It gives nice, focused beam. But, you know, Ill try to make most of it, Ill tr that mod with resistors.
It was talked about on another topic, to ut 0,3-0,5 resistor in paralel, somewhere on stock driver, to yield current around 3,0A.
I dont know can I harvest some such resistor from some cheaper drive (Ive never done that nor do I know how resistors exactly look like.)
I change my mind, Ill mention meters after all: google Earth shows me that it throws at least 360 meters….
Of course, object lit on 360 meters is not very bright
I have church tower made from brick 360meters from my house, so I test flashlights sometimes on that. SO, its not white, but from brick (red).
(I wonder how many lumens is needed that road signs start reflecting the light )
I was asking about changing the sense resistors myself, did you find a value to use in parallel to the original ones? Not sure what you meant by “0,3-0,5” what is that in ohms?