yeah, the b3flex would be ideal for up to 3A, which would still be a metric ton of light and well within the capabilities of most NiMh AAs - the h6flex would be just overkill in this situation, as it’s 5A (or 6A, I can’t remember) max drive would be crazy off 1P AAs
the H6Flex is adjustable and one setting is 3600mA, which is the one I would use. I think for the price difference, it might be fun to put 3.6 amps to it. Eneloops can take that, although probably not for a long period of time.
It may be a while though, due to the cost, but hopefully it will happen.
I used an overkill driver from I-O that would work. It’s a buck-boost, which works fine for driving the MT-G2 from 2 18650, so an 8S would work. I think there must be better drivers for the task.
I think a 4S2P config is better, which limits you to XM-L/L2 or MT-G2 with a boost driver. This might work OK for driving an MT-G2 from 8S NiMH.
I probably will wait till I can buy one of the Taskled drivers. The fact that they are thin makes a big difference in the limited space I have. I am concerned about room with the fatty drivers that take several mm of height space. When I can, I will buy one of George's drivers and finish the build.
Those are diodes, I assume to prevent a reversed battery condition from breaking things. I would not have expected it in the tailcap though…
If you replace them with bridges you will lose that function, but you may also not care depending on the driver you use.
I was wondering if that is what they are, but it did seem strange to be in the contact plate. I may just leave them if that’s the case. Since I am going to do 8 in series, I have to put in a 3rd guide pin, so that the tail cap can only go on one way, as it can be on or 180 on now. Can’t have that with 8 in series.
I think it makes sense there, as they are somewhat sizeable components due to the current and possible heat dissipation needs, as well as to provide a battery bridge. Just checked my EA4W and according to my DMM, and it’s just a straight bridge. Guess they weren’t as concerned about reverse polarity with the little guys.
You are setting the bar so high OL I’m going to have to take up pole vault. Tell me you punched out the little copper round tabs and not cut them out by hand and file them to shape on the battery board?
I like the use of the pcb for the smd switch. Very clever. I wonder if the stock board could be modded(sense resistor change) for more output or if the components are already maxed out.
Sorry if this is O/T but all the smart folks likely to have done this before are already in here... anybody know of a source for parts to build a drop-out battery carrier? Specifically the female threaded rod to tie the two plates together. I can make the contact boards easy enough, but for the rods I don't know where to look or really even what I need to go look for.