I think no one tried that yet. When you say optics you mean aspherical lenses or just classic emitter optics?
Because if you will put classic emitter optics you will not gain any throw. You will degrade it.
If you mean on aspheric lenses I am also not sure if you will break 500KCD mark. Because SBT-70 is already stock de domed.
Better leave this settings you currently have or return to stock settings. This is dedicated and premium reflector light.
Stock SBT-70 has really nice combination of lux/lumen and I would never touch that.
Yes I mean aspheric lens. I wish it will break 500kcd if focus properly.
Stock SR95S UT is already very good, none of stock LED flashlight have this kind of throw, I just want to play around with it to see what can I gain from modding.
Problem is I always have trouble positioning the LED nicely. I dislike to grind or bore the base of the reflector if possible because that could probably mess up the reflector surface, or getting an even poorer focusing. This is a non reversible process somemore.
Not so much trouble for X6 as she has two screws to position the LED nicely. More trouble is for the reflector as there is some play of it. I used double-sided tape to make it hold firm and not so much play. X6 mod should not need to bore the reflector. Is it you read somewhere it has to be bored? I am interested to read that as what can be gained from doing that.
Actually nobody has proven boring the reflector would help in gaining throw number yet, but just a guess, since many de-domed lights perform better after position the LED higher into the reflector.
relic38 obtained 367kcd without machining on the reflector here ; ryansoh3 has modded his X6 but few emitters have failed here ; and 18sixfifty has bored out his reflector base completely and has improved throw here , but he didn’t measure the lux reading though.
If you want to hit above 350kcd, you better buy T90 instead. I am afraid X6 is not driven as hard as T90.
Looks like completely bore the reflector will remove the ugly ring of hotspot. Ya, not sure how much it improve throw or not as there is no measurement.
My SST-40 from Kaidomain has finally arrived after waiting for 1+ month. I want to put it into my SR95S UT.
But I am not sure can I just swap the LED because I measured 3.7464V on XML2 LED many years ago.
Will this 3.7464V too much?
I put a 70.2 and a Lexel built T/A Narsil driver in DBSR’s SR90 and It came out great, a respectable 14amps at the emitter,(due to the battery pack) it throws a great big beam!
This big bruiser handles the heat extremely well at this current and out put, and the ramping Narsil is a dream in really big lights. I sold it to a guy that has a horse ranch and he uses it nightly to spot and kill Coyotes. He told me he loves it!
So last night was a failed mission though I gained first sight into very nice white tint of SST-40.
My main objective is to build a thrower exceeding 500kcd, it was around 460kcd with XML2 dedomed.
Retiring this XML2, I used gasoline to dedome it 4 years ago.
I wanted it quick so I choose to slice SST-40 without making any jigs. My hands were shaking, it was so laughable that I laughed at myself. I definitely don’t want to damage the LED and I think this was my second time slicing a dome. First time happened 4 years ago.
Before:
First slice, very ugly. Damn! It was like this too 4 years ago:
Last slice, more acceptable to me:
Took me about 4 slices to reach this. Keep telling myself DO NOT overdo it. I have only one LED, if it is spoiled, I will need to wait for another one month for new LED from KD.
Hurray! SST-40 in the house. I didn’t do soldering for years, my solder iron broke down and I have to buy a cheap US$3 one for this job.
Voltage measured were as below.
High 3.686
Med 3.12
Low 2.733
Didn’t measure current as I wanted to do it quick. But end up spent 5 hours on this because of keep adjusting the reflector distance with the LED. Maximum candela I got is around 460kcd.
Lesson learnt:
1.Reflector can cause short circuit due to this incompatible 20mm mcpcb (luckily nothing burnt). I wish there is 30mm or 40mm single LED copper mcpcb.
2.Slicing is easier than gasoline method
This light gets warm faster now. Will continue tonight.
Finally completed modding my flashlight into my new baby. :heart_eyes:
No more ugly greenish yellow tint of dedomed Cree.
But I can’t make it to get to 500kcd, actually reaching below 400kcd, even lower than yesterday result and 2013 xml2 mod result. But I like its beam and hotspot right now, so I stop working on it. And I don’t think it can reach xml2 result, i can’t understand why. Could be reflector and led combination thing.
I resolder with longer wires to have more room to adjust reflector, end up having lower voltage as below:
High 3.66
Med 3.09
Low 2.73
So high current has about 0.03v drop from last night result. No regret though, easier for me to work. It still warm up faster than before, with 8A led current I guess (Thanks to djozz’s test result on SST40). Hope it is good thing for longevity of the led.
Final candela result when flashlight is rest cool from start, 388kcd.
Estimate OTF lumens to be 1500.
Have to use some insulator tube as tightening reflector cause wires to short. Seems to be MCPCB edge is sharp and pressing wires on it will cut through wire insulation. But I need to get the led to get closer to reflector, so I have to tighten it.
Hot spot and spill size comparison with Fenix TK61 on the right. SR95S UT SST40 Dedomed has smaller hotspot and no dark heart. Distance from wall was 55cm.
Spill is smaller for this mod too. Hotspot appears larger but it’s not.
Bad news! My light suddenly off itself while I enjoy walking and shining distant trees with it. I suspect LED is gone. Will troubleshoot tomorrow since i don’t have solder iron right now.
Light was warm and I thought it was doing fine.
Such a nice milky white light, I enjoyed it more than MT07S and RC40, although for only 10 minutes.
I am thinking to get IO XPL-HI MCPCB now if confirm LED is gone.
Good news! The LED is not dead. When i twist the reflector to check, the solder on mcpcb was breaking off. It is cold solder i believe. Maybe it is the heat expanding bad joints or simply put cold solder is not reliable.
After rework, candela measurement is still same around 380kcd. So i didn’t measure the forward voltage.
Lesson learnt:
Bad solder iron + bad soldering skill = cold solder joint