Now when I screw battery tube in it just ramps right up.
At 18 seconds I had NOT clicked the button.
Light seems to function perfectly with switch and driver not mounted. could there be a short somewhere when I tighten the driver retaining ring? also if I put either of the led power wires to the right side of the diode above the switch wires they will come on, they stay on at all times.
What if you remove all switch wires from the driver.
Then just short the two switch pads to turn it on. Will it still ramp up on its own?
Do you see any excess in solder on the switch pads or anywhere else on the driver that might be creating a connection where there should not be?
I did run it without any switch and it worked fine, there was some fine solder dust on the pads above the switch pads when I got it. I made sure it wasnt crossing any other pads.
Going to put it back together again with switch hooked up and see how it does.
I’m thinking the mt03 uses a driver retaining ring?
Do you see any components on the driver, on either side, that might be sticking out too far and touching to ground that shouldnt?
On the plus side, it looks like the switch lights are figured out. A common negative ground. So if you do hook those up you need to make sure the black switch wire goes to negative.
You could combine the blue and yellow wires to make both light up, but you’ll probably need an extra resistor. You’ll need more resistance than 1000 ohm.
nothing sticking out and shelf is super small.
Hmmm, I’m running out of ideas.
Did you say it only messes up when the driver is mounted into place? If so it might mean the issue has something to do with that.
I also can’t comment if the indicator lights are supposed to be always on or not. My TA drivers are older and don’t have any indicator function. I just wired them to constant power to show if power was connected or cut off.
The continuity test of the switch does not reflect the proper function of the switch in any way
Even if the switch gets down to 100kOhms it will pull the MCU pin down to ground
A quick and dirty fix for this would be a 4.7kOhms pull up resistor from MCU Vcc to switch pin 2 of the LED, this would eliminate false signals down to like 1 kOhms
So measuring on the board the resistance between both switch pads is a good indicator if there is a problem, same for the switch assembly, both should show at least 1 MOhms
I tested here a few boards with values of 3-6MOhms depending on polarity
I discovered sometimes dust and moisture on a board make things act up weird
This is why I clean the boards after testing them with alcohol and an electrical tooth brush, unfortunately the solder paste flux does not dissolve well with alcohol so tiny solder balls from reflow sometimes stick to the board and do survive cleaning, but if they do they wont come loose later