Looking at a side, say the brown wood side with the copper plates, 4-15/16” ( 125 mm) wide x 5-9/16” (140 mm) tall. The block is 2-11/16” (67 mm) thick. The diameter of the original large hole through the block was 3-1/8” (80 mm).
Nice, thanks. I thought it was a lot bigger but that’s quite cute 
The edges were radiused with a router bit. IIRC :person_facepalming: it was a 1/4” (about 6 mm) radius. Looks to be too big for the smallest bit I have which is 1/8”. The router spins that at 27500 RPM’s. A sharp carbide bit provides a very smooth finish .
EDIT: I compared it to the completed bookshelf unit in the shop… yes, this light block is 1/4”.
Thanks for the update. I’d have radiused my hand if I used a Router. :person_facepalming:
Next time make the LED a levitating ball using induction
nice end result.looks great
Someone was wondering if there was sufficient heat sinking. I wondered too. So a while back I ran a full throttle test. Full throttle being 700 mA. I should have posted before.
The ambient temperature was 70 F, 2 C
After three minutes the copper plate the led mcpcb is mounted to was at 76 F, 24.5 C
At 13 minutes the copper was at 78 F, 25.5 C
After 30 minutes the copper was at 82.5 F, 28 C and the wood block measured directly above the led was at 88 F, 31.2 C
A full hour after the start the copper was at 83.2 F, 28.5 C with the wood warmed to 89.4 F, 31.9 C
I run the light mostly at 50% and it barely seems warm.
When charging a half depleted cell, the charger copper plate heat sink runs about 7 degrees F higher than the base temperature of the wood, finger tip warm.
So there is no chance of turbo accidentally happening? The wood catching fire that is.
Amazing light Don. Its a whole different skill set working with wood. My left thumb can vouch for that.