And check the tightness of the retaining ring that holds the driver in place.
And look through the retaining ring and see if the driver looks centered, not off to one side.
thank you for your comments. I have a couple of questions:
In this picture, is the outer brass colored ring with the 2 holes in it, is that the retaining ring that holds the driver in place? I guess it isn’t cu I can’t see thru it as u asked me to do. How do you see the driver?
arrrggggg!
The outer brass ring is the head of the pill - a big heavy chunk of brass. Use needlenose in those 2 holes, and you can unscrew the pill, CCW. When the pill is removed, it's easy to get to the driver on the underside of the removed pill.
Two different ways, right?
— if you use a wide-button cell, a short from spring to pill across the button, curable with a homemade gasket
— mismatch between width of hole and width of driver, so driver can slip sideways under the retaining ring, and if it happens to slip toward the positive wire connection, a short there, curable — how?
I’ve been looking for a little half-millimeter or thinner insulator I could drop in around the edge of the driver to keep it centered. Meanwhile I’ve been lucky …
All the furthest most outside SMD's on the driver are batt- ends anyway, like the 7135, C1 cap and bleeder resistor for example. I looked it over carefully and find it hard to understand how a ground out could occur, maybe though. But they clearly did some sloppy design/measurements work there, leaving all that wiggle room.
It's so depressing seeing slop work where it's done better in <$10 budget lights.
> leaving all that wiggle room.
On other lights I’ve had driver retaining rings that had an inverted-L cross section — so the threaded part was somewhat thinner and a wider part overlapped the ground ring of the driver.
Got those on the Convoy lights and I think I also bought some from somewhere, maybe FT.
(I was able to notch the wide part of those to avoid pressing on Qlite chips, without filing into the threaded part.
Hhere’s a picture of that in the MtnE thread:
The retaining ring in my Cometa is equally thick all the way through, so it doesn’t have overlap and the thin threaded bit fitting down around the outside of the driver board at all, just presses on top of it.
Maybe replacing the retaining ring would keep the driver centered.
I notice the driver has the rough fiberglass (?) teeth on both sides where it was broken off from the rest of the board and not filed down. Maybe they were counting on those for centering, but they’re not long or even enough to do that.
Hello, I was really excited about this light… But now I am concerned…
Im wondering if when I get the package… should I refuse it so that the mail man sends it back to the sender so that I can get my Money back?
I really want a powerful thrower that can zoom out to flood aswell… 
I wouldnt do that if I were you. That might work ordering something from the US, but coming from china, you’re likely to end up with neither your light or your money back.
Another approach worth a few minutes’ time: write a review of the light at the page.
Anyone who’s bought one can write a review.
Look for mine.
I got a quick email reply after I submitted the review:
I answered that I’d taken care of mine with the high-temperature 3M insulating sheets, gave a pointer to this thread, and said I wanted to see the warning posted in the reviews for anyone who hasn’t bought the light, and hoped to see a version 2 with the problems fixed.
It’s not a demand for attention, it’s telling them they need to post the warning and take care of others before they buy this.
I will be interested to see if my review shows up. They do post critical reviews, I’ve written others in the past that did appear.
This may be a possible solution…
This example is a mod in progress for adapt the BLF A6 driver to D80. Next step is solder the wire to the driver (two or three solder blobs), for keep all in its site.
Robert B… That’s what I was thinking…
1.Would it be worth shipping back? how much would it be to do so?
2.And what would be a better option of zooming 26650 led light?
Here’s a quick safety fix for the battery spring at the head of the light.
This should only be used TEMPORARILY without further modifications.
I offer it because many may be too impatient to cut an insulating washer before first firing up the light.
There is a white foam gasket inside a Windex glass cleaner sprayer which might be used as an approximate reference for making a gasket.
It would actually work if it fit tighter but as is it will fall out during a battery swap (too much risk with that).
Needle nose pliers in those holes and twist loosen, the entire brass pill including the white led mcpcb, brass pill and driver on the other side will come out. The actual retainer for the driver is on the other side so look there to see if it’s centered. If not, remove the retainer and add either a thin wire hoop shim around the driver, ~2’ of insulation stripped from thin guage wire, or few tiny dabs of Fujik or AA before replacing the ring to keep things in place.
A few inches from one of the wires in a phone cord would probably do the trick too.
What’s the verdict on this light on the Italian light forums? Are they getting crappy quality as well?
That’s good. Who’s keeping the sticky top-of-the-page list of all the fixes that should be applied? That ought to be on the list.
I’ll have to use Google Translation on this….
They haven”t received any lights yet as their batch was sent back for modification, after all the problems encountered here.
As far as I know the “modification” that has been carried out is just that a plastic insulating disc has been glued to the bottom of the pill to stop the cell positive shorting.
The lights are on the way back to the EU warehouse & they should start receiving their Cometa”s very shortly.
Glad you got it off in the end.
If it had a gap on one side it sounds as if it was cross threaded ?
Well having read all the foregoing and although my light is working fine I decided that for my long term peace of mind I would take the Cometa apart and examine it.
I have tried the following 26650 batteries in the light- a Keepower 5200, a Basen and an Mxjo all without problems. I found Jeansy’s video very helpful in disassembling the light although in truth it was not that difficult, I did not encounter any of the problems with cross threading, over tightening etc. that other people have had and it all just unscrewed quite easily.
I was stuck for a solution to the problem of covering the solder blobs on the pill and eventually used Sugru mouldable glue to cover everything- a little to enthusiastically as it turned out because some of the glue ( its like putty before it sets ) was pushed on to the LED when I screwed the disk back in place. After removing some of the glue from around the LED and cleaning it with a cotton bud I reassembled the light. I made a plastic disc as instructed to go over the battery tube spring and with some trepidation switched it on. Everything seems to be working fine I ran it for 5 minutes on high without any problems.
I will never know if all this effort was necessary or even desirable- I may have made things worse, time will tell.
However I wonder if I now qualify as very junior apprentice modder?
What???
I could have sworn I read somewhere that the EU batch of COMETA’s had been returned to BangBang to be overhauled to comply with the Original Specs? I know I read that!! 
What happened That was a waste of shipping if in fact that was all that was done….
How disappointing to learn…………
Just watch the video in post 54. He does what I described only you can’t see the driver under the disc of gorilla tape he applied.