Never mind found them on fasttech
I have two of these on order from Fasttech. Just a warning that they will more than likely shipped on a ship not airfreight as my order said. I'm not expecting them any time soon.
Yeah I'm probably going to get mine from illumn with my 26650 cells. More expensive but I trust Craig and Co. more than Fasttech.
No cells though, but there was a knife…
Sounds good. Pending the opinions of others, I’d say you probably don’t need to change the circuit if you’re going to use the LG D1 cells. They really look like a perfect match for what you are doing!
I thought you’d be interested to see this (post #83). Comfychair hooked up a 219 on an IMR cell just now - it turned blue. So that’s a no-no.
And mine was on a copper board, you're going to need more than just adding more vias. Drill & insert copper wire will be about the best you can get, though still not ideal.
What's on the backside of the Medusa board? Lots of copper? Could you do this trick with it?
Solder it to the copper sheet first, THEN drill the holes! Otherwise it's a serious pain in the ass.
you always do amazing stuff Matt!
Ouch! If this keeps up, someone will earn the nickname of “smokey”. I appreciate the limits to which the BLF community will do for the sake of science.
It survived, it still does the same output on an ICR cell as it did before I hit it with the 25R hammer. I did swap it out for a XPG2 S2 1A though.
I suppose I'll have to think about this more. I may simply add current limiting resistors because I do not want to over-complicate this build. ICR cells will help, as will the new thermal vias, if I drop the current a bit more with the resistors then I can help the nichias survive even longer lol.
Stupid question that I should know the answer to but it's too early to think: would switching to a smaller FET help? Or will 4 219's all pulling from a single 2502 (for example) simply blow the FET? Or will it limit each LED to around 1.1A (2502 is limited to around 4.3A IIRC).
- Matt
Blow the FET, probably. I’d go with the resistors instead I think - move the resistive losses away from the FET.
Deal. This is the last revision I did, though I'll add the resistors at some point this weekend before ordering new boards:
I removed the AMC chips and replaced them with IRLML2502 FETs (I like the look better and I'll get more light), evened up the nichia traces as much as possible, and quadrupled the thermal vias available to the quad array. Also added a few relevant icons lol.
As already mentioned I'm going to add current limiting resistors to the Nichia's (which might require a fairly significant revision to that part of the board), and possibly some small resistors to the XQ emitters as well.
- Matt
When I built the Tiny10 for my Texas Poker with the 2502 FET I was encouraged to check it’s potential with bigger cells. The most I saw it produce was 5.7A if I recall correctly, from a decent 18650. It’s now comfortably making 3.11A on the Efest IMR10440.
Cool idea, securityling is nice, I wonder about empty Supfire M6 hosts.
Matt, what about dumping the Nichias for XPG2s? It looks like you have the space. Then Comfychair’s trick with the copper wire looks like a real help with Oshpark boards.
Comfychair, what gauge wire is that?
I want the high CRI of the Nichia's. They're my go-to LEDs :)
I just realised I've never done direct drive with current limiting resistors before! Someone check my maths?
Assuming VIN = 4.2V (max) and the forward voltage of the Nichia's at 2A is 3.9V.
R = (4.2 - 3.9)/2 = 0.15ohm.
P = LED Current * Resistor Voltage Drop = 2A * 0.3 = 0.6W
So I need BATT+ > A 0.15Ohm, 0.6W Resistor > LED > FET > BATT-
If I use one resistor for 2 LEDs (because of space restrictions), my resistor value would be 0.75ohm and 1.2W resistor?
- Matt
Empty M6’s is what I want, but I don’t really see that happening at this price level. I doubt it would reduce cost by much. Even in the case that the M6 host was cheap to produce, if I was Supfire I wouldn’t sell it separately - I’d be worried about cheap-crap fakes built in my inexpensive hosts flooding the marketplace.
That’s exactly what I though about doing, but using a 50mm copper round from etsy
With solder filled vias to a solid copper back, you might not need to drill and drive in copper as you have increased the thermal path with the “liquid” reflowed solder vs a solid copper slug (copper will be better thermal conductor than solder but it’s benefit only shows up at VERY high currents)
Matt, when you make the 3D view, don’t drag over the GBP and GTP (paste layers) it will not show the “white” blocks on the solder pads…the paste layer from the cam processor is for those that want to up the build to OSHStencils for a good paste layer stencil 
Incredible build man, simply incredible