My thoughts on receiving the Supbeam K50 V2

what about a realtree flashlight?/ mossy aok

camo

Why does this not surprise me? :bigsmile: Tis the sure sound rumblings of a master modder preparing again for battle.

Nah, I think he’s just getting cranky.

Its just his characteristic charm that we’ve all come to admire. :smiley:

Once it’s sealed (boiling water) it shouldn’t take any more color. If it wasn’t sealed I think you’d figure it out pretty quickly. That said I’ve never done any anodizing.

Wait, are they requiring the mismatched tubes be shipped back?

this treath

I’m pretty sure that if you show pics of your mismatch to Bella they’ll just send a replacement. I doubt they want them back since they say “Supbeam” on them.

It’s type 3 anodizing, so it won’t change colour when you bake it.

:expressionless: nice try

not so smart from supbeam that color mistake…if i let see this on al the stores i know they gonne say “chinese color quality”

Well, you could always hit it with a torch and turn it orange and black.Tongue Out

Getting cranky? Geezerman has always been more cranky than a Model T :wink:

I got one in today for modding for another member and it’s mismatched as well. Light black head and black shiny body. Other than that I’m pretty impressed with the light and wish I had been able to get in on the buy. I like the light a lot. It’s a nice sized light. The mag ring is easy and smooth. I’m not at all worried about the springs. A resistor mod will take care of the low amps. Unlike the TK61 the emitter is actually centered perfectly. The reflector and lens look top notch. It’s not the quality of the TN31 that is for sure but still it’s a nice light and a heck of a thrower.

Thanks, you just gave me the idea for my own brand of lights

O-l's CrankyFire lights. Easy to turn them on, but hard as heck to turn them back off. The cranky switch sticks!

whaddayathink?Tongue Out

I'm not sure I want to see a turned on OL. Make that I don't want to see OL turned on.

Don’t touch his crank!

I've torn it down as far as I want to go. I learned a lot. The led shelf is about 1/2mm thick. That is just too thin for risking an MT-G2 at any high amperage. The area where the led shelf sits is directly in line where the magnetic ring goes. There is no thickness in the head there. It's thin all the way till you get up to where the fins start. It's thin all the way the other way, to the bottom end of the head. Basically, it's too thin as far as I am concerned, for an MT-G2 mod. The driver section is not deep, so there's not enough room for the driver mod I would want to do.

At this point, if I can get it back together and working, I will just leave it alone, as I should have. I don't think I can get the tail cap off or get the magnetic ring assembly apart without damaging things and I do not want to drop all that stuff into acid, to clean off the ano. It will ruin the ring and the tail, so I think it's a no go. Basically, it's a good thrower as is, but I would not want to mod it, with no way to make a heat sink or to take it apart any further.

Definite an MT-G2 mod, first i would probably scream in my mind at Supbeam for a while about the odd color problem, then i would likely do a Zener Nanjq and add a 7135 set-switch somewhere, ( to switch from 14 remote 7135 chips to 8 chips and make it a 8-mode) then i would end up probably polishing the control ring to off-set the black differences.

Vinh sells them by adding a copper disk beneath the LED shelf for extra thermal capacity and heatsinking. Do you think that’s possible?

It does seem very challenging to get the magnetic ring assembly off as it’s glued to tightly.