Well, congratulations on the build. I totally missed it until now. Guess I don't read much any more here, but it looks great!
Nice thick soldering of that PCB to the brass ring.
I’m thinking of adding blue tritium to my d5 after reading Essexmans post, would that look gaudy on my edc I wonder… :bigsmile:
Well, keep me informed. I don’t know anything about tritium, or how to install it.
Did you cut the trace to the 1st star when you bridged the 3rd? I read you’re supposed to cut the trace that makes star 1 the default.
Also, to install trits you drill the hole just a wee bit smaller than the trit and bang it in with a wooden mallet.
Oh, sorry, that’s not trits. You make the hole just a wee bit LARGER than the trits and bed them in with Norland 61, a clear epoxy type compound that is cured with UV light. Jewelers use it as well for mounting crystals in watches and such. It’s preferred as it stays clear and doesn’t yellow with age as well as the fact that it’s cured in minutes with a strong UV light. The Tritium is a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen that is sealed in small glass tube. So you do wanna be careful and not break it. It’s essentially harmless unless you inhale it up close and personal as it quickly breaks down in contact with the air into a harmless gass. (in a nutshell) I usually has a half-life of around 10 years in the form most commonly found in inserts. So it’ll be half as bright in 10 years as it is new.
Nice build, now you’re in for it! lol
Oh, one more thing about the trits, they tend to not be concentric in the glass vial. So if it’s a 2mm diameter vial and you drill a hole barely large enough for the trit…you might find it jamming as the length of the trit may not be the same diameter. So drilling out a little oversize is many times a good idea so that you don’t have to try to get a stuck trit out of a hole. 
Welcome to the never ending spiral off madness in the world off modding. You have done a terrific job and I love your soldering iron. How do you like the 4C tint?
I don't know how I got that original driver with the missing chip. I drove the light well though. I'll hook it up to my test switch and LED to figure out why the blinkies are still active. I test every driver I use now before installing.
4C has been one of my favorite tints for a while. It was pretty hard to come by until FT started carrying it. It was either learn how to build and mod, or no 4C or Nichia lights for ouchyfoot.
I just finished a 5C light, and its a pretty nice tint too. I have a 7B high CRI XP-G in the lineup. Not for everyone, but can be quite pleasurable in some settings.
From what I read you have to slice through the trace on the default star setting in order for your new star to work. There’s a copper or brass trace just under the mask going to probably the first star. Slice through that with an exacto knife and you’ll then have your choice of the other stars and get rid of your blinkies.
A quick visit to FastTech shows that their 2.8A 105C Nanjg board only has 2 groups…the 4 stars do not alter the blinky mode you have to select it with the power switch.
” Mode groups:
•Unlike the 4-group 105c driver, the four stars on this 2-group 105c variant do not alter mode groups
•To switch mode group: switch to Lo mode and count 5 seconds. When a quick blink occurs, briefly power cycle or half press on/off switch.
•Group 1: Lo (5) > Mid (50) > Hi (100%)
•Group 2: Lo (5) > Mid (50) > Hi (100%) > Strobe > SOS ”
This may well be why you still have blinkies even though you shorted star # 3. Check it out. http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1186301-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-n