I have played around with this nanjg clone today
First it worked nice and how it should on 3A( yes it has the better 380mA 7135 on it)
And now it has this modes 0.00A 0.85A 0.15A blink SOS
The high mod has gone. :_(
If I connect the right leg on one of the 7135 to positive spring it gives me the 3A like it should.
Can anyone explain this? Any hints?
Protection of your cell triggering?
Nope, it gives me the 3 A when triggering the rightest leg manually and I tried it with a power supply
Defective MCU I'd say then. Checked for shorts?
But the other modes work so it’s not totally dead, I am really puzzled.
The mcu triggers the right pins, or not?
Yup right pins. And I've read about drivers behaving weird before. MCU can be defective or just a problem with the program its running. Cant help you though. :/
Here was a thread who someone complained about the kaidomain v2 version pulling not the full current but I can’t find it…?
Edit: I solded the 3rd star for 3 mode operation and now I have 0.85A 0.5A 0.15A.
The only way I can explain that is the mcu makes a wrong duty cycle. But how could this come?? I will play with that tomorrow.
Dry solder joint on the board ?
I will check soldering of the tiny again tomorrow, that’s a good hint.
You mean this thread? That was me.
If it is the issues are different. I lost the med & low modes after adding different AMC chips. High and blinky modes still worked. Haven’t had time to figure it out.
Couple of options:
(1) You’ve got a bad cell, bad switch or bad connection somewhere else with some resistance. When the driver pulls high current, the voltage drops out at the driver, browning out the driver and making it ‘click’ to the next mode. This shouldn’t happen on a genuine Nanjg card, but with a clone, you never know.
(2) The clone’s badly programmed, and maybe the EEPROM in the micro ended up getting corrupted.
If you’ve got other lights to try the driver or pill in, do that first. If everything remains the same, I’d assume #2 and toss the driver - or if you’ve got programming tools, perhaps try flashing BLF-VFD onto the thing.
Is this happening when any of the stars are soldering to ground on the driver?
On the FT site, it says that the stars don’t do anything and might actually negatively impact the performance.
I don’t think it’s worth saving a few cents with a clone IMO. Good luck and let us know what happens!
Oh, can if you identify the MCU? Attiny13A hopefully? 
I haven’t put this in a pill it’s laying on my workbench, I test it with a power supply. I also tested it with some batteries.
I had ordered a nanjg and this clone, the nanjg I got has the stars which are useless and I don’t like it. So I decided to desolder the tiny13 on the nanjg and drive both with the clone mcu to get some serious current.
I checked the clone was surprised that it is a 3A driver and was happy.
I have run them both in parallel but it doesn’t work so well with a real battery because of voltage drop.
But thenI realized the problem I have now, but indeed it orcurred after shorting a star….perhaps this caused a problem…but the mode selection works….
Now I have two ruined driver in about 5 minutes…and investigated the problem for hours….
If these get damaged so easy than I am scared to sacrifice my good drJones driver tomorrow for further tests…
Perhaps I should order this damn soic 8 clip, but it seemed to expensive the last time I looked for one…
I bought two of these:
I figured they’d both be crap and I’d have to cobble two of them together into something that works, but they’re actually not that bad - I’ve used expensive ones that are just as bad. There’s a spot they’ve melted plastic to hold 4 wires in place that you should put a dab of epoxy on, but with that done, they’re great.
I’ve been using them for my TV-B-Gone experimentation, plenty of connect/disconnect cycles happening in that project.
Link is bad, please change or send me your eBay username and password :bigsmile: