I’m new to the group and unfortunately I found it too late. Lately I bought an Ultrafire C8 xml-t6 on ebay (ebay link) with some accessories to mount it on a rifle (7x64 Sako L61R).
The light itself works okay but not as bright as I expected. The remote is less satisfying: if I don’t press hard enough, it dims a little. It rather seems to be a flood light. What I need is a thrower.
- My question would be, if it’s worth modding this light to crank it up little for my needs.
If yes, what mods should be done?
If not, what lights would you recommend to buy instead?
The requirements:
- I’m using the rifle with a scope, so rather a thrower is needed
- optional remote switch
- 25.4mm diameter for mounting
under 60$
I’m using the light only for a couple seconds before firing so it rather has to strong than battery efficient.
Plan C would be buying strong thrower and modding the C8 for a decent search light:)
The question can't be answered without knowing what the tailcap readings are . I'm guessing no mater how good the c8 is ...the battery would probably be holding the light back . i don't kniow what the driver is but if it's a direct drive light the blue battery is pretty seriously lame ...same with the charger .. that probably means the light isn't a very good one either but you'd have to tear it down to know . People who have good c-8's are usually very impressed .Personally I'd de-dome it and get a real battery for starters . to a tail cap test and let us know how many amps it draws .
thanks guys for the quick replies. I did go through a great number of hunting light discussions but some of them are a little outdated and some have different priorities.
Is this Uniquefire UF-T20 XM-L U2 significantly brighter/more focused than my Ultrafire C8 xm-l t6? How about a Zeusray XM-L2?
How much extra brightness do I get, if I rather pay for a Nightcore P12 or Fenix PD35?
I don’t need red or green color I rather go for throw.
Sorry for the many questions but reading the forum I just get more and more confused
Please someone correct me if I’m wrong if there are any good remote switches that will handle higher amperage (1.4A+) with without resistance the thin wires on tape switches have?
I looked and couldn’t find a ready made remote switch so made my own that are fet switched, coin cell powered and tape switch activated.
The Maxtoch M24 has a good reputation has the supreme white led hunting light and is slightly over your budget. But I haven’t seen a tape switch for one.
Hi Miklos - short answer go get the Maxtoch M24 or M24S. Way beyond a C8
We (NZ hunters plus a number of BLF guys) designed them with Maxtoch specifically as high performance hunting and outdoors lights. M24 stock is 80-84kcd (my c8s all 15-32kcd), and dedomed is 170kcd or so. M24S runs slightly higher current (3.5 amps as opposed to 3.0 for M24) and runs at 90-95kcd and 190-200kcd dedomed. We designed them as all purpose hunter lights combining beam width for field scanning plus long distance spot, and they are scope mountable or good as handheld spotties. Aspheric pencil beam lights are useful but you’ll still need a wide beam spottie. M24 does both.
Very good distance - rangefinder tests on dedomed light show you will see big animal bodies out to 500 yards with naked eye. We built them with 25.4mm tubes to match standard scope rings, made them lightweight for a 2x18650 at 270gms, and after design consultation Maxtoch have now produced a remote pressure switch for them.
Very popular with hunters. Buy one, dedome it, and you’ll have a beauty. BLF guys incorporated copper circuit boards, AR lens tech etc into these lights and they are powerful performers, stock or dedomed, and have retired our big handheld halogen hunter spotties. Read the comments on bottom of web page - almost all from hunters:
Click on “hunt” on left of page and it’ll bring up remote switch plus M24S option as well. Grey M24S more power but 15% less runtime - just a matter of preference there. Best run on panasonic 3100/3400s for long runtime. M24 = hi/med/low with mode memory; M24S = hi/med/low plus twist handle strobe, mode memory. Go get it!
Willie - Maxtoch (an OEM manufacturer) made the original Skyray STL-V2/FF STL-V6, also sold by them as their own Maxtoch SN6X-2. The present M24 is direct successor to those excellent lights but with much improved build quality and 60-80% more lux output.
Maxtoch produce the 2X as well - powerful at 120kcd stock, 240-250 dedomed, and 350kcd+ modded, but this is 400gms and heavy for a scope light. More a handheld spottie.
Thanks mudgripz for the detailed answer. I’ve only read good things of M24 since I research the topic. My original idea was a single 18650 lamp, but that output might worth the extra size.
The Nitecore mh25 also got my attention. It’s on sale in one of the nearby hunting shops in Budapest (little under 100 usd for the hunting kit). Warranty works easier too with non-online shops.
Any experiences with mh25?
Nitecore mh25 looks like a nice little walking light but not a hunter really.
The XML led will pump out good lumens but the head is just 40mm - smaller than even C8s - and measured lux output in one clp review was just 14kcd. Company claims 24kcd. I suspect even a good C8 is a better option at a fraction of the Nitecore’s $100 cost.
14-24kcd simply too low for an effective hunter light. Maxtoch M24 has 4-6 times the lux output at less cost - and with 1 year guarantee.
Indeed mudgripz. You were right about the mh25. I walked into a store today and found out that its output is similar to my C8’s. Maybe it wasn’t such a bad deal
It seems I’m gonna crank up a little my C8 with some basic mods and upgrades like Boaz said and later buy the Maxtoch m24 for the heavy duty.
Is there a good deal now on quality 18650 batteries you know about?
You could change the emitter in your C8 to a XP-G2 on a copper board and dedome that one using the gasoline method before soldering it into the light. Mind to center the led well and make the solderblobs on the ledboard as far as possible to the side and very flat, to clear the reflector. At 3 to 3.5A it beats the XM-L2 in throw by at least a factor 2 (at the cost of a smaller hotspot and dimmer spill)
Did some more lux testing tonight on a couple of Maxtoch lights gadgetman has just dedomed - a new M24 and a new 2X. They were impressive even shining them on the wall this afternoon, and really lit up the lux meter tonite.
M24 dedomed read 179k lux and the 2X recorded a cracking 256k lux - which is over 1000 meters beam length (down to equivalent of full moonlight).
Took them outside to test (edge of city) and they both easily lit up buildings 400-500m away - even within some city lighting.
Seriously impressed! Bloody hell these things are good - esp when dedomed.
I did the tailcup tests. The highest reading was 2.6A.
Can I get a higher output just by swapping the battery to a better one? What battery would you recommend?
I’m also considering swapping the emitter to a dedomed XP-G2, if that worth the effort (and costs).
