Why can’t he use a green filter? 
Don’t know, he didn’t ask me to build him a green filter.
I actually used the heat from the die itself and peeled off the dome. It’s decent, but not as tight a hot spot as I wanted it to be. Pretty sure it’s the reflector in this particular light. It was doing 300 lumens before the de-dome, not sure now.
I’ve got the reflector sitting flat on the big 32mm Noctigon, emitter can’t come up into the reflector cup any further unless I get fancy with it.
I don’t have a rifle with scope to check it out with, looks like it shines a couple of hundred yards pretty good but I’d like to see what that looks like through a scope. Might have to dig out the binoculars.
I think Carson doesn’t have a light that will throw very far, so a green filter wasn’t even a consideration for him. He wanted more range and I didn’t even think about making a nice thrower then using a filter. Not a hunter, don’t think in those terms.
I have a little Maxtoch light that has a very deep reflector, this might be a better choice than the Sunwayman for a tight beam profile. But it’s a normal tail clicky and I’m not sure if it’d fit in a mount for a rifle. The Sunwayman has a tail clicky lockout but has a side e-switch as well.
So do I start over?
I have always used zoomies for hunting lights. T-20s have been popular, along with the newer uf-1505. I typically don’t de dome them, as the hotspot is almost too small for my liking. I did do a hs-802 in red once, but much preferred the zoomies.
As far as driving green xpe2s, I stay at 1.4a. It seems to give plenty of runtime, and no real fear of overheating.
Think most people don’t like to dedome the XP-E2 because the hotspot becomes too small. A lot of hunters are using aspheric lights, think one of the best is the Uniquefire UF1504, big head/lens and short body. Others with small heads would also work but will have less throw of course. The Uniqufire UF 1504 has a 30mm tube which will take 30mm scope rings. Most people mount a scope ring with a Weaver/picatinny base to the scope and then mount a scope ring with a Weaver/picatinny mount to the flashlight. This way the light can easily be removed. Here is a link to some info n10sivern did with the aspherics and the colored XP-E2’s. Think Kloepper Knife Works also did some XP-E2 testing in these aspherics.
Thanks, appreciate it.
Mount this on the scope and this on the flashlight. Light can be easily removed for transport or storage. Make sure the ring with the Weaver base that mounts to the scope is the same diameter as the scope tube. Most scopes have either a 1 inch or 30mm tube. Not endorsing the quality of either of the rings I linked, just the first ones that came up on Ebay.
The battery tube needs to be 25mm or 1” for most standard scope rings. 30mm will work too. i run green xp-e2’s at 1.4A. 1.92A will be pushing it hard but it should handle it. The output tops out around that current. The vF on the green emitters is high, so I prefer to run them at a lower current. At 1.92A, the vF will be around 3.5-3.6. I would personally use a T20, 1503, 1505, A60, or something along those lines for the build, but that is just what I am used to.
Rebuilt it using the Maxtoch TA5Q-11 with it’s very deep reflector.
Tweaked the stock driver for 1.85A to the XP-E2 emitter. Very tight hot spot, some mild spill that’s clean (not ringy) This is a smaller single cell light that will be much easier to actually use, the question remains as to whether or not it’s what the kid wants.
Hmm, I think I am overkilling it with 7xAMCs (2.4A) for red XP-E2 and 6xAMCs for green XP-E2!!! :~
Nah, I run my reds at 2.28A only because I use .380 7135’s otherwise I’d run them at 2.45A with .350’s. There is no real benefit to running the greens over 1.9A which is why I run mine at 1.4A or 1.52A
nevermind what the kid wants, I want me some wild hog, a rear drumstick will do 
From a huge hog beast?
I built up a green XP-E2 (top bin) and red-orange XP-E2 (top bin) in a pair of 1504's, and I decided to go with 2.48A (6 350's, 1 380). They really throw well under the huge aspheric. Figure ~2.5A is at the peak from djozz's tests. Usually I'm 100+% confident in djozz's tests, but don't like the looks of that green test - thinking it's closer to the blue, as djozz himself is unsure - only one sample, so could be a bad one, or bad reflow, etc. The green even with the dome looks like a laser beam at night, while the red's beam can hardly be seen, but they both look equal in light'n up trees at 80 meters with no problem.
Don't think the 1504 makes a good rifle mount though - better to go with something thinner I'd think. A 2 cell light has a nice profile for a rifle and has the extra runtime, which hunters look for. Might get more distance from a reflector, but the aspherics have that tight beam, so less disturbing to surroundings. All depends - hunter prefs, etc.
the huger the better
Please where can i find the red-orange XP-E2 (top bin) leds?
I hope you don’t say Mouser or digikey 
Mouser
+1, Mouser, sorry... I find it looks very close to a red. Even the dye is same color, same XP-E format w/lines.
These are the ones I ordered: mouser=XPEBRO-L1-0000-00C01, it's bin Q4.
The green I ordered: mouser=XPEBGR-L1-0000-00F01, it's bin R3. There was a higher bin green, but it was spec'd with a high Vf, like 3.7 (low amps), so I didn't go for that.
Ok thanks guys, Mouser 
that is to bad.
I have asked Richard to stock some before, but i don’t know if he will, at least i know where they can be bought now.
Yeah they are very close to red, the Orange-red is 620nm & red is 630nm. I plan to combine them with the amber 590nm, deep(photo) red 660nm, and possible Lime green luxeon 550nm.
Each of them cover their rated spectrum including +–5nm.
This is for maximum contrast, acuity & colour rendition in the allowed spectrum for in house after dark (non melanopsin affecting) lights
Now that i think over this again, i think maybe it would be better to skip the Orange-red, to not get an overly red push in the spectra by doubling up so close emitters.
So 550nm,590nm, 630nm & 660nm is a pretty nice even spread. But if i have learnt anything here, it is that photonics is crazy hard to try to be correctly intuitive about, if you aren’t a math wiz so i am maybe missing something obvious. For example to account for the lessening frequency response of the eyes, so maybe it would be a good idea to use more red to even out the colours……