Is that grey or titanium? I need one of those!
Titanium isn’t an option yet. That’s gray
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What tint bins do you have?
Thanks, we decide to do some modification to the KR1AA, and reproduce some parts, so, I’m afraid the release date will be postponed at least one month, I’m really sorry for the serious delay.
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we’re excited for the release, but if this will make the KR1AA better then it has to be done. what kinds of modifications were made?
Currently, KR1AA is threads contact, we wish to modifiy it to surface contact, so that the mechanical lock out function will work.
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I see, definitely a good modification. any chance we can get to buy it before 2026?
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Better to have it delayed and have it be the best that it can be.
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For a long time, I couldn’t admit to myself that I was addicted to flashlights, but after visiting this forum, I realize I’m not alone.
Regarding the KR1AA, in my opinion, it’s the best you can find in the 14,500 size, and (I might be wrong) it’s the first flashlight that combines a tail switch and a magnet (which was the final straw for me).
BUT (perhaps this isn’t the case in reality), I don’t quite understand why the middle section has visible knurling, like from a chisel. In my opinion, a smooth surface would be more attractive, or smooth knurling in the style of the EAGTAC D3A TI which is currently my favorite EDC flashlight
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To keep the style of big brother KR4. Same goes for the tailcap.
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I didn’t know that the same trend exists in the flashlight industry as in the auto industry. Sometimes I confuse the Mercedes C-class and the S-class
Great Upgrade! Thank you!
Mechanical Lockout is a very valuable feature.
I also hope the switch will not be overly sensitive.. Options to achieve that goal include,
- delete the brass button that actuates the center of the switch dome.
- and or, recess the button, so it is not flush to the outer edge of the tailcap
wishing you continued success with your design 
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I agree, the KR series buttons are quite sensitive, and I haven’t found a way to improve that. I’ve tried tricks similar to how all my FW3A/FW1A series lights, but it didn’t help.
I wonder if there is a possibility to have an upscaled TS10 style switch (even though they’re all quite similar switch setups), that one does feel much better than the KR switch.
the only real thing that improved my KR1 switch was replacing the metal button with the rubber switch cover/boot from a K1/K9.3, but then it is very proud off the tail.
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Sorry if this has been asked I didn’t see it.
Will the KR1AA have stainless / copper bezel options?
What about making alternate bezels that are taller and having a reflector or deeper TIR option for more throw?
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yes stainless and also a couple of PVD colored stainless options listed on Jacksons site:
And Jackson might be getting a shipment next week, of the prototype run without the physical lockout option
watch both sites.. bear in mind that Hank charges about $20 less than Jackson.. otoh Jackson offers FFL LEDs that Hank does not.. the FFL LEDs tend to be more Extremely Rosy… Jackson ships from Hawaii..
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Unfortunately a deeper TIR/reflector wouldn’t increase throw much, the KR1Aa throw is mainly limited by the emitter options, all relatively large LES emitters driven at “only” 6V 3A
The TS10 SG has an very short optic yet still has good throw for its size thanks to the sft25r. Similarly the FW1AA has a shallow reflector but still manages over 30kcd using a cslnm1. We’ll have to see if a boost-buck driver is available in the future so high intensity 3V emitters like sft25r/cslnm1 can be used
I wonder if there will be different optic choices for the KR1AA, the NTG50 usually requires a wider angle or slightly frosted optic since the relatively large gap between the dies causes a donut hole in a narrow clear TIR (this is why the D4SV2 NTG50 comes with the medium optic instead of narrow)
If the current optic is optimized for NTG50 then a clear/narrower TIR could be made to be used with SFT70 which has a much smaller gap between the dies and doesn’t have the donut hole problem, may help get a little more throw
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Take your time, Hank. We’d rather wait and it be right than get it now and have problems.
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I disagree. I do agree the major limitation is the LES on the boost emitters, but SFT70 should be more throwy than a D3AA. The optic is a shrunken DA1K optic so it’s likely only 5mm or less in height, comparatively the shallow FW1AA reflector is 8mm in height.
I’m not asking for a thrower, but 10-12000cd would be nice. Better than 4-6000cd or whatever it’s going to provide. I’m happy the light is made but it’s not a scaled shrunken KR1 where the head is bigger than the body.
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Hmm if the optic is indeed a shrunken down DA1K optic it should be ~8mm deep, like the FW1AA reflector, DA1K optic is 26.5x12.4mm, scaled down to 17mm diameter would make it 7.99mm tall
KR1AA is 79.5mm long while FW1AA is 77.1mm, I would think even with the magnetic tailcap the KR1AA optic will be >5mm tall
I do agree ~10000cd would’ve been perfect, ditto on preferring the slim head over flared. I think SFT70 6500k will be close but SFT70 3000k and NTG50 will be a lot less. IIRC a D3AA with ntg35 is ~9kcd and with sft25r is ~20-25kcd
I’m also hoping thefreeman’s FW1AA boost-buck driver will fit so I can try a sft25r, hoping it plays well with the optic and I can get ~15-20kcd
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@Hank_Wang - Can the single channel D2 use flat-top 14500s and regular AA batteries (like the D3AA), or do we need to choose button-top 14500 compatibility to use AA batteries?
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