These lights are still available on Amazon as of the time of this post.
My Folomov 18650s never left Gearbest I just found out. I wonder why?
yes folomov PLEASE use narsil user interface
it is already done and it is great
yours is seriously not great
wle
I think I was about the first to order the Folomov 18650s on Oct.17, and it finally arrived today, so it took a bit over 2 months, feels a bit like going back to 2013.
The UI is quite ok at first glance, I like the direct access to moon from off, and the long-press for off is less than half a second which makes that very usable. What makes the UI unsuitable for EDCing the light is the the up-up-up-then-down-down-down mode-cycling without any option for reset: because the light has memory there is no way to go to a lower mode without first cycling up passing the highest mode, even switching the light off or even breaking battery contact will not change that.
The light makes a really nice and distinct hotspot, I wonder how much of that is the reflector and how much is the 219D causing that.
My 219D turns spectacularly purple on the highest mode 
, so a led swap it will be.
The design has many sharp edges on the outside so I’m thinking of a treatment to make it feel smoother.
It is very small for a tail switch 18650 light, I like that.
I think that after a led swap to LH351D to make the spot wider this will be my bicycle light.
Purple is purty though 
. Well, good to hear another having the same experiences. I'm still amazed of the great reviews this light gets and that Folomov doesn't seem to be listening to the blue/purple issues. On one of my 18650S's, the bezel was easy to get off (has a 219C now), but on the other one, it's still stuck, even after getting two new pairs of pretty good sticky gloves and giving them a go on it. The strap wrenches don't work well on small tubes, so I need to re-visit my 2 pine board method with the drilled holes and slots...
That 219D is a clear mistake indeed.
I reflowed a 4000K 90CRI LH351D into this light now. It took a while for me to find out that I did not reflow a faulty led or that I did something else wrong, the led would not light up with my led tester. Then I looked at that bleeder resistor and realised that it is only 51 Ohm which is enough to drop the voltage from the weak tester enough to prevent the led from lighting up.
When the light is switched on btw, this bleeder leaks almost 80mA, so the lowest two modes are enormously inefficient. So I decided that the tail circuitry would have to do with a bit less power and soldered an extra 150 Ohm in series with the 51 Ohm. So now it only leaks 20mA and all works fine sofar (perhaps on a weak battery things will happen but I even doubt that).
With all its weird design features and issues (that pillar under the ledboard made out of a rough piece of frp-board is strange too!) it is an interesting light.
Ohhh yeah! The LH351D 4000K 90 CRI is in my current top 2, great LED for this light. The other is the IOS/MtnE's XPL HI V2 5D. Though I also really like my SWM C20C with a triple XPL HI 2700K 80+ CRI.
Yes, my lanyard is broken on the sharp edges of the lanyard-holes.
Houston we have a problem.
I liked this model so much that I bought the second one,
and today I bought the third one as well.
Can I still be cured or is it too late? 
It’s too late. For us all from the BLF forum. 
Hmm, has anyone else this?: when the battery is low my Folomov 18650S does a stepdown, once it has done that it will not respond to the switch anymore, so not switching modes and not even turn off. Breaking battery contact for a moment switches the light off and the switch works again to switch the light on, once the light is on again, the switch does not do anything anymore. The battery measured 3.4V when this all happened. Changing to a charged battery fixes everything.
It could be caused by the little led that I soldered (with inline resistor) between batt+ and batt- so that I have a lighted switch on this model, so it is very well possible that no one else has this (minor IMO) problem.
Wow! I want a lighted switch too.
How did you do this?
Any photos?
Thank you)
I posted some pictures in the “what did you mod today” thread in december: What did you mod today? - #6512 by djozz
But as described above it may mess with the UI when the battery is low. It is no problem for me because I use it on my bike and as long as it does not shut down early it is fine.
Mine had that problem, which was exacerbated by the battery draining all by itself in a day or two when the light was off and sitting on the table. This problem wasn’t obvious in the first week of use, though.
The first UI malfunction that I noticed was the already reported problem of most of the time when clicking from Moonlight to what should be the last memorized mode, it would go to Turbo, instead, regardless of what mode it was in when last turned off.
I already wasn’t very pleased with the “Wave” mode sequence - it took way to long to get back to a lower setting, once you had passed it up.
I returned mine for a refund because of the two malfunctions. Customer service was excellent for the return - they provided a UPS return shipping label and provided the refund to my PayPal the day that the light was picked up by UPS.
I was really bummed when I experienced the UI and didn’t like it. Then I had the two functional problems.
I really liked the form factor of the light and the feel in the hand and the beam shape and tint were acceptable to me. I still haven’t found a replacement light that’s anywhere near as compact. I have since purchased a Sofirn 32A and a BLF A6 and am currently carrying the A6. Neither of these lights feels as good in my hand as the Folomov 18650S, but I do like their UIs better.
Can anyone help me, please? After the Nichia 219D has been replaced by the Samsung LH351D 5000K 90CRI the Folomov 18650S will automatically turn on as soon as a battery is placed into the light. Any hint what could have caused this?
If the button is working ok (not stuck or something), could be something is shorted from the re-assembly, or possibly damaged
The UI of this light seems pretty sensitive to anything, I do not think that they did any work on robustness of the firmware and electronics.
Still I’m fond of it because it is different from any other light, and surprises keep popping up 
2 options now on amazon. 3400 battery with 960 lumens and 5000k. I’ve been using it daily for a week. I was kind of hoping that the 5000k was a misprint or only applied to the highest setting based on previous discussion. I really wanted the 3000k. So now I’m going to get the original one. And the instructions mention that only the two low modes will work if the battery is at 10%. It never gets hot, step down from turbo after about a minute. I The only problem I have is learning to press and hold to shut it off. This is replacing an Olight s30rIII after two years only because I wanted something warmer and slightly smaller. *Corrected to “turbo” step down
Can a Nichia 219D be either 3000k or 5000k? The Amazon ad shows both to be 219D.
I don’t know if the 219D can be both 3000K and 5000K. But that’s part of why I thought it was a misprint or only applied to turbo. I’ll have the 3000K here after Thursday to compare them both side by side with identical batteries. Edit. The 5000K that I have is neutral but definitely not as yellow and warm as pictures and videos I’ve seen of the 3000K