My new Neutral White - T6 3C dropin came yesterday. It took about 2 weeks.
I put it in an L2P host and tested draw at the tail using a fresh Tennergy 2600...
High: 3.0 Amps
Medium: 1.05 A
Low: .08 A
The driver is blue and is marked V10+.
About 6 months ago I got one of the first batch of 25 of XinTD C8's. That C8 driver looks the same and has the same marking. At that time, some posters questioned whether the driver was any good. I have not had any trouble with that driver.
I turned the L2P on and left it on a table for 15 minutes. The light was very warm to touch but had not failed or changed mode due to heat.
Others have measured 4200-4500hz for the Nanjg 105C. I can also detect it with my camera on low at 5% duty cycle, mostly a useless test/check as long as the eyes cannot see it (but if one struggles can see it in shower water on medium an low). I think it would be impossible for anyone to even pick anything up at 8Mhz.
Fair enough, I wasnt completely happy with the method used, I connected a XRe directly to the probe input and shone the torch on to it in a dark room. The meter is calibrated often and reliable as its used daily for machine calibration checks. Can you suggest abother method I can use?
I have no experience with measuring the PWM frequency on led lights. I realize that your Fluke is calibrated and even if it would be not, it's impossible for measuring device to have such a an error. I cannot comment on that technique.
What's interesting is that all other measurements seem absolutely normal, 126Hz for the 980L ( the photos also show the PWM very well), 7Hz storbe is very common.
Haggai seems to have an interesting method, which I look forward to try, https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1844
Yeah the Haggai idea seems ideal to try next, I also have a clamp meter so if I remove the pill and wire it up I'll take voltage on one fluke and connect the current clamp to the scopemeter. Infact I could connect it to both channels and directly compare the two test methods I think....
I just want to be sure that it is clear that the new dropin uses a driver that is blue and marked V10+. I do not know what parts are on the other side of the board.
I know this is very unscientific but PWM can be easily quantified with a digital camera.
If I shine a direct drive light toward my camera at just the right angle, I get a solid vertical line. Heavy PWM can show up as long or short interupted lines and/or with long or short interuptions. As PWM decreases the lines become faster, appearing more like dots trying to merge together.
With a well regulated light, the spaces are near imperceptible and therefore, no appraent PWM to the eye. If I'm off-base, please feel free - I can take it.
That's pretty much my system, too. It has to be real bad before it's an issue for me. My only light with serious PWM is the Skyline 1 . . . and it's only noticeable at the lowest setting.
thinking of buying one of these..is the pwm better than the manafont 3 mode? I find that to be pretty bad..did you get the U2 version? how is the tint?
