I don’t think anyone has claimed that any of these batteries were the same as a new Panasonic 3400.
As for returning the now torn apart pack….
Actually the Samsung (charged to 4.3v) can push 3 amps to an XML2 longer than the NCR18650B. Look at the charts HKJ has, and compare the 3 amp curve to 3.4v
I don’t perceive a difference in runtimes of batteries regardless of which charger I use, and I highly doubt both chargers are undercharging the cells.
The output voltage for the i4 chargers is 4.2 volts, according to factory specs. I purchased the chargers from 2 separate venders months apart, receiving the newest one 2 weeks ago (authorized Nitecore vendor).
Maybe some of the packs he’s selling weren’t stored properly, or are just older than ones the lucky people have received.
I’ll just chalk it up to experience and buy new, proven cells that are at the beginning of their lifespan in the future. I use at least 4 18650s daily, and certainly get my money’s worth from the sets of GroupBuy Pannys I’ve picked up here.
You know the Samsungs from the packs are fully charged at 4.3 volts right? Not the normal 4.2v for other cells?
Would charging them .1 volt under 4.3 volts cut their run time in half?
Does it run at Turbo half the time of the NCR18650B while undercharged?
Or is your total run time on a lower level half?
I see you had earlier said it stayed on turbo for half the time……
Yes, the TK75 will run continuously on turbo. It kicks back to high after 20 minutes, but I just immediately switch it back to Turbo mode each time. When the battery voltage lowers to a certain point, the light switches down to High immediately, and you can not switch it back to Turbo (In other words, Turbo mode ‘disappears’ once the battery voltage gets too low).
The TK75 has great thermal dissipation, and has never kicked down from Turbo to High due to getting too hot. Further, I did this while walking at night.
The Tk75 is also voltage regulated (meaning it is not brighter & draining batteries faster when using batteries with less internal resistance), so the comparison seems valid.
Well if you think it is reasonable to compare an undercharged 2800mah cell to a properly charged 3400mah cell………….sure.
Just for grins I decided to post the graphs here of the two batteries compared.
Samsung charged to 4.2 volts. Panasonic better for the entire discharge.
Samsung charged to 4.3 volts. Voltage is higher until 3.3volts is reached, then the Panny is higher. At 3.3 you will not be pushing an XML hard anyways.
If those charts indicate the performance I should be seeing from the recycled Samsungs, then mine seem like old, tired cells.
Is there a way to find out if they’re even safe to use at this point? I’ve been using them just after charging them, but now I’m wondering how long they’ll even hold the 4.2 volt charge while just sitting around. Guess I need to find my old DMM and take measurements.
After reading the review I’m not so sure about the HXY. Wish there were other alternatives.
So it you had a choice to get some of this packs, which would you get?
- ASUS 14.4V 4400mAh Batery packA42-UL50
- ASUS 14.8V 3600mAh BA-05-LMA1
- DELL 14.8V 3800mAh TAPE 75UYF
- DELL 10.8V 48Wh TYPE X284G
- DELL 14.4v 3000mAh P/N3149C
- DELL 11.1V 48Wh TYPE X284G
- DELL 11.1V 56Wh TYPE PT434
- DELL 14.8V 4460mAh TYPE 66Whr
- FUJITSU SIMENS 10.8Vdc 4400mAh batteri pack 3S4400-G1P102
- HP 10.8V 43Wh HSTNN-CB18
- HP 10.8V 4910mAh,55Wh HSTNN-UB73
- HP 10.8V 55Wh HSTNN-IB66
- HP 10.8V 47Wh HSTNN-OB42 STLP/N NBP6A48B2
- HP 14.4V 73Wh part number 464059-252
- HP 14.4V 63Wh SERIES HSTNN-UB33-
- HP 14.4V 63Wh HSTNN-IB34
- Lenovo 10.8v 44Ah FRU P/N 92P1186 ASM P/N 92P1185
- Lenovo 11.1v 5.16Ah FRU P/N 42T4861 ASM P/N 42T4862
- Lenovo 10.8v 7.8Ah FRU P/N 42T4511 ASM P/N 92P1132
- Lenovo 10.8V 52Ah,57Wh FRU P/N 42T4797 ASM P/N 42T4796
- LI-ION BATTERY PACK 10.8v 4000mAh M660NBAT-6
- LI-ION BATTERY PACK 11.1V 6000mAH,66 Wh AS10B7E
- Li-lion Batery 10.8V 4400mAh P/N AS09A61
- Li-lion Batery 10.8V 5200mAh(56)Wh PB994A
- Li-lion Batery 14.8V 4000mAH 8599(BP-8599)
- Li-lion Batery 14.8V 2000mAh LIP-4084QUPC SY6
- LITHIUM ION BATERY 10.8Vdc 4400mAh BTY-M52
- Lithium Ion Rechargeable Batery 14.8V 2200mAh EM-G320L1
- TOSHIBA 10.8V 4000mAh PA3536U-1BRS
- TOSHIBA 10.8V 48Wh PA3817U-1BRS
- TOSHIBA 10.8V 4000mAh MODEL NO. PA2487U RG
- Fujitsu Battery BTP-ACB8
Yes def take a voltage reading after charge.
I charged one of my NCR18650B cells as well as one of these Samsungs to 4.2 volts.
After sitting for two weeks the Sammy was at 4.19v, and the NCR was at 4.17v.
- Li-lion Batery 10.8V 5200mAh(56)Wh PB994A
Looks like 2600mAH cells, but it depends so much on price.
Got my two packs taken apart and cleaned up last night. There were nicks in 5 out of the 12 cells so I shrunk a fresh coat of plastic on those ones 
. Used a fine sanding wheel on my Dremel to clean up the sharp high spots.
Voltage before charging was in the 2.6-2.8 volt range. I now have 8 charged up to ~4.22 volts and everything seems good.
Ended up soldering some raised “bumps” onto the positive poles. They turned out well and are stuck good. The batteries did not heat up hardly at all when I was doing this but I used a 180 watt gun for this part.
Materials:
- 180 watt soldering gun
- Rosin core paste flux
- 60/40 RA solder
- Isopropyl alcohol
Process:
- Lightly sand positive pole, then clean.
- Brush on rosin core flux.
- Using clean and tinned tip on pre-heated soldering gun/tool touch tip to pole and immediately begin adding solder. Dwell time should be around two seconds, which will minimize heat transfer to the cell. If your soldering tool cannot provide enough heat to do this within 3-4 seconds it may not be wise to attempt this!
- Clean up with isopropyl alcohol.
The bumps turned out really nice and should provide good contact for all configurations without adding excess length.
Here is what the tops look like after being charged and tested in a few lights. Could stand to be cleaned a bit more.
Side profile view, these are just about the right height IMO. You can see that the three cells on the left have extra shrink wrap.
Where do you all get the shrink wrap…besides FastTech? I have some stranded in Hong Kong… :~
Yep, I have the clear stuff from FT. Works well and is inexpensive.
I made a offer of $12.00 and seller agreed, bought 4 and that made free shipping
2 left
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221001594383?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
From what I’ve read the black ones are much harder to disassemble than the white ones.
Let us know how they are. I made a low offer based on his shipping being $18 for two!
BTW, I was very impressed with these Samsung 2800s on my bike ride tonight. After riding for 42 min. using my 2.8A S5 mainly on medium but with bursts of high, it had 3.95v left!
I am also interested in seeing what cells these contain and hold old they are.