In that price range. Of those three I would get the wurkkos HD15 because it is the only one available with 4000k. Flood and spot are both high Cri on the 4000k.
your first decision is form factor — integrated headlamp (centered weight, better controls), or L-shape flashlight inserted into rubber holder.
If you have no other lights, the L-shape gives you two for one. And who are we kidding, if you’re posting here, this isn’t or won’t ever be your only light…. so the 2 for 1 aspect is really not very valuable.
Your second decision is light quality— temperature, beam spread, and CRI.
I had your same decision two weeks ago, and picked the integrated lamp form factor, the Sofirn HS20. I don’t ever need lots of throw in a headlamp, so I picked the XHS 50.2 for the “throw” portion vs. the SFT40, but most pick the SFT40. This lamp comes with LH351D in 5000k for the TIR lens flood portion, which is high CRI. I would have preferred 4000k for both flood and spot, but it isn’t available from Sofirn (or wukkos). You have to go with Convoy for LED and temperature choice, but you have to pick flood (H1 with TIR lens option) or throw (H1,H2,H3), you can’t have flood and throw in the same lamp. and they are L-shaped lights stuck into rubber holders.
Had I been OK with an L-shape light stuck into rubber holders, I would have picked, as the poster above said, Wurkkos HD15 in 4000K, in color green. It was my 2nd choice.
You can’t go wrong with any of those but I am happy I chose integrated lamp with two separate buttons to control throw and flood lights.
Is 18650, or even 21700 really a good choice in this case though?
Longer runtime is nice, but practically - will it matter in specific use case?
Lighter headlamps with smaller batteries are much more comfortable, and at least for me end up being used much more often than larger ones. Even if longer runtime is needed extra cell in a pack or in a pocket is still more comfortable than having to use about ~2x heavier headlamp.
Skilhunt H04 mini seems like very good option to me. Cheaper than large version, with nice high-CRI light (there is now 4500 519a version available) and a choice between TIR and reflector.
Just something to think about.
Thanks to everyone for the advice, I’ve narrowed it down to the Sofirn HS20 SFT40 or XHP50.2, and Wurkkos HD15 4000K
Still have a few questions though
Does the light colour really matter that much? Like for the HS20 the SFT40 is superior at throwing but is much cooler and more focused than the XHP50.2, which makes it a noticeable separation from the samsung flood
And if I chose the XHP50.2 version because of the colour then the HD15 is basically the same but even better colours and flood with a worse throw
Would the flood on the HS20 SFT40 be sufficient enough at med to high modes in urban and hiking scenarios that I wouldn’t need to use the throw? Because if so, then it’s a minor downgrade from the HD15 flood and upgrade from the throw
I’ve got the Sofirn H25L and find it really good. It takes an 18650 battery and has twin Samsung LH351D 90CRI 5000K LED’s (rated at 1200LM .) It’s got onboard micro USB charging- but that’s basically useless as it charges at a whopping 200mA(!?)
It’s quite comfortable to wear and is light weight. I used it last week for a couple of hours while painting a room and hardly noticed it on my head. The beam spread and distance is good. Basically it’s really good for the money and you’re getting high CRI LED’s with a decent light output.
It won’t compete for throw with the SST40 or SFT40. Keep in mind the SFT40 only comes in a really cold white colour temp. I’ve got one in my Convoy Z1 and it’s not a very pleasant light colour.
Take a look at reviews if you have not already:
You are digging rather deep into LEDs, throw/flood etc, but it really sounds like you are missing secondary stuff which can be practically more important. Choosing specific emitters and such is well and good, but IMO at this price point is far from being the most important thing.
For example both use PWM. Both have basically no regulation / varying output based on battery voltage. HD15 also has rather wild temperature regulation.
I have read through a bunch of headlamp reviews recently, and since this 2 offer some interesting features at a nice price i looked into them, but this secondary stuff made me drop both. As a result i have no practical experience with both, so may be someone who actually used this lights can tell how important/visible/noticeable this stuff is. Things like PWM can be somewhat subjective and dependent on specific use case though.
For you it might not necessarily be that important, especially if you are very strictly limited by budget, just be aware of this stuff.
I have a Wurkkos WK20 clamp-mounted on my ebike. I really appreciate the warm color temp (3000K? I forget) on the night rides. I also have a Klarus A1 which I’ve relegated to day use (for its strobe) simply because I do not find the cooler tint as pleasant. JMO.
Honestly, how much flood does one need when biking? We’re traveling along some pathway and we don’t really need to see every little thing that’s off to one side or the other. Light on the path is the big priority IMO. Both of the above-mentioned lights are basically throwy but they certainly have sufficient spill to illuminate things to either side.
Wanted or *h*iking - not *b*iking. 
The perfect headlamp would be integrated, with 219b or 519a as the flood behind a TIR lens, and a GT- FC40 for the throw portion with smooth reflector. I am biased. When I see green in a beam, I notice it immediately. When a light does not show colors as I am used to seeing them, I notice it immediately, whether flood or throw.
I will never again buy any light that isn’t high CRI, or below 5000K, unless it is a very narrow beam extreme thrower, which I can’t image ever needing. That would be like buying stereo speakers with harsh treble and muddy midrange, but are efficient a go very LOUD.
And 21700 to power that one, right?
Which suddenly makes it totally not perfect and to be honest - horrible from my point of view.
World is full of compromises 
Narrowed it down to the HS20 XHP50.2 or the HD15 as I won’t really be needing the throw of the SFT40
I think you got it narrowed down pretty well in that price range. The HD15 is just objectively better than the HD20. Can’t argue there. But the HD20 is growing on me for some reason. Like it’s one of those dogs that can’t keep its tongue in its mouth constantly derping, walking into trees and stuff, but you like it because it walks into trees. That’s what makes it special. Ya it’s big. I don’t think it’s big enough. Make it bigger. Seriously. But that’s probably only me.
I think it comes down to what form factor you want. Right angle or centered. One button or two. With right angle sometimes it feels the light is always just to the side of where you want it to be but it works as a normal flashlight and a worklight too, with the magnetic tailcap. The HS20 is really just a headlamp but that lets it focus on just being a good headlamp. It puts out more light, maybe too much light if you believe some of the tailcap amps reviewers have measured it’s drawing like 3x more than that crappy sofirn button top should be rated for, if it was rated. But it can only do it for a minute. The wurkoss can’t hold turbo for any longer either tho and is plenty bright. Single button on the wurkoss vs independent buttons on the hs20 is significant. Might be the thing you notice most day to day. Sometimes the single button is a huge pain when you have to cycle thru stuff, other times you’ve got your preferred setting dialed in you don’t need 2 buttons.
Ill bet $1000 you end up getting both eventually anyways because you can read every single review and opinion out there but you won’t know what you actually want until after you’ve bought and tried out 10 different lights. Like, does tint and CCT matter? Ya but maybe it doesn’t matter as much for you as it does someone else. Maybe you’ll find you actually like 6500k but only in one emitter and not in another. Won’t know until you just buy all of them and find out.
The short answer is, yes. The long answer is, hell yes. The list of headlights with a very floody 4000k high cri LED is pretty small. The list is even smaller for a very floody 3000k high cri led IN A HEADLIGHT. If you want to keep the budget under $35 the list gets even smaller.
Therefore the vast majority of people in the world and people on this forum have not used them. Remember that when you read reviews. The HD15 initially and for a long time was only available with 5000k LEDs. So the vast majority of people that bought it do not have 4000k. Convoy makes three different headlights with 4000k and under leds but I don’t believe any of the options are really floody. If I lived down under I would consider this cyansky. (Gathering Interest) Cyansky HS6R 3000K version Although the UI would really irritate me.
Thanks for the feedback everyone, I have decided to go with the Wurkkos HD15 4000k and a Skilhunt HB3, definitely still tempted to buy the HS20 or alternatives in the future
LOL! I don’t have only one centered or one L-shape headlamp and most people here have far more than I. The 2 for 1 is very valuable for me! An L-shape actually has become a requirement for EDC for me. My current fave headlamp and EDC is an E03H II. Spectacular clip, and magnetic tail cap allow it to do things that a centered headlamp simply can not do. It can do things that that a regular flashlight can not do either. Simply an exceedingly flexible and useful tool.
Agree that light quality is very important and I love 4000k tint and an even spread beam.
Agree that the OP can’t go wrong with any of the choices. If I need longer run time or farther throw an 18650 is a great option. Any of those would be excellent.
Currently I just much prefer the AA as it is much more comfortable on the head when using with the head band, can be clipped to a variety of things, plus has a magnet for a plethora of hands free use opportunities.
Out of the 3, I’ve got HS40 and its a really great light.
The button on the top is supper easy to locate and use. UI is simple and straight forward. Cant remember if it comes with a reverse clip, but get one as it can be handy. The Skillhunt headband HB3 is fantastic (ive also got this)…easy to insert and remove in seconds.
The only weak link with any of these torches is the USB charging….the rubber cap in a field situation rarely stays in place and can therefore be open to water ingress in a storm situation which happened to me.
I also have and like the hs40. I do have a psa though. In my sample, when in ramping mode, the mode memory didn’t work. It always resets to high, which is not good for my uses. I got a replacement but it had the same bug. So be wary.
On a different note. I have twenty or so headlamps. All great.
The one I use almost everyday is cheapo $9 one. Sofirn HL25 or whatever model number.
Morale of the story, it’s the use case that matters, and not the CRI or the lumens, or the candle power.
Do you need a headlamp or an idea?
Seriously, a good mechanic can work on a car engine with Craftsman tools. The dreamers need Snap On.
Don’t tell me you have not come across this in your lifetime.
1 Thank
I don’t own the Sofirn HS40, but as for me a headlamp must be floody, it doesn’t look like the HS40 is Floody.
I have the HS20 and for me it’s almost perfect. Good flood, throw also available if needed, as a trail runner i’m very pleased. I’ve written a review on it here : [Test] Lampe frontale Sofirn HS20 | Carnet d'un ultra traileur du Nord
I also have tried the Sofirn SP40A. It should be Floody but the flood is ugly. I don’t recommend. Here my review : https://trail.x31.fr/test-lampe-frontale-sofirn-sp40a/