Hi, all-
I’m new to this whole flashlight thing- to me, a flashlight has been- at best, a MagLight- at worst, plastic flashlights at work with dead batteries!
Discovered the world of ‘better’ flashlights, and find it interesting!
I’ve ordered a couple 3 different lights, but tonight, it dawned on me- that I have 2 MagLights that might benefit from some improvements- even if only better batteries, preferably rechargeables.
I have a 3 D-cell and a 2 C-cell MagLights… what would be a good upgrade on batteries over the typical Duracell’s I throw in them? Are rechargeables suitable- due to the lower output voltage from an alkaline cell?? Are there other simple mods that I could do to start with?
I’m totally unfamiliar with the process and concepts of modding flashlights… I’ve been reading through material on here- some of the sticky’s on the basics, so I at least have an idea of what’s IN these things! I’m an electronics technician by trade, in and working for the Navy for 47+ years- and a certified micro tech, so the soldering issues are non-issues for me. I just don’t understand the theory and block level operation of the driver/regulator circuitry-
Anyway, better batteries would be a starting place for the MagLights. (I’m aware the M/L’s aren’t LED lights… )
Thanks for any advice!
Wes
Welcome to BLF 
If you just want to replace the battieries with rechargeable cells, the market is pretty slim. Tenergy makes NiMH C and D cells that are pretty well reviewed. There are a couple guys here who’ve done some heavy maglite modding, you have options, all of them infinitely better than the original incandescent bulb.
There are NiMH ‘C’ and ‘D’ sized rechargeables.
Tenergy Centura are what I found recommended when I was looking for them. They’re low self discharge and thus able to sit in a flashlight longer and maintain more charge.
These will require a charger that can charge NiMH batteries.
If you have experience with soldering I strongly suggest checking this out. I had a blast working on mine.
If so here is a simple and cheap upgrade for the 3D to LED, and also how to upgrade the 2C Mags.
Since it was first posted there have been some improvements, there is a newer lamp that looks and works quite nicely.
This would be an easy first mod to get you going. You already have the skills.
Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.
Any recommended sources for the rechargeables? I don’t want to end up with counterfeits, which- I understand- can be a big problem with batteries.
Also- charger recommendations??
Thanks again, guys- will study the link you provided in more depth later today when I have more time.
Wes
So what are some improved bulb options for the 2 and 3 cell lights??
BTW, I placed an order for some Tenergy Centura c/d cells + their best charger. Thanks for the recommendations.
Wes
Once you switch out the bulb for LED your batteries last 10X longer. Just stick with tried and true batteries.
What you will find though is that single AA LED lights will outperform your upgraded MAG, so I would suggest you throw it away now and just buy something compact/modern.
I realize this sounds drastic but I went through the same thing, and I NEVER use the MAG now.
That’s a bit harsh. There isn’t a place where you cant’s find D-cells and for those who need it, a Mag is a heavy club for SD purposes.True, there are lighter Li-Ions, but there’s something about the lines and clean ano of a Maglite that’s just attractive. They just need to be properly powerful to go with it.
Better yet, send it to OL… Or me. 0:)
A not too expensive simple upgrade is just a simple LED conversion bulb like the TerraLUX ones (see here). I put a TerraLUX ministar2 extreme in a 2AA Maglite and was quite impressed (this was back when I was new to LED lights).
Maglites are a bit tough to mod for really high power due to the need for a heatsink.
-Garry
If you just want a good, bright light, Terralux or SuperBrightled.com both have ~3 Watt upgrades for 2-3 cell Mags and other lights. I have a 3 watt PR2 based LED in my 2D cell G I Fulton, and it is a waaaay different light than it was before. I have put some sort of LED in all the incandescent lights I own, and am really satisfied with them.
I have modded one 3D Mag, and the lack of hassle with the replacement LED bulbs is far superior, IMO.
The new lights have a certain “GEE WHIZ” factor, undeniably cool, but if all you want/need is a good, bright and reliable light, the mags with a drop-in is the way to go, and really economical.
Or, the LED D and C-cell Mags are a good buy.
Otherwise, HOLD ON to you wallet! 
Having said that, my “dream” light is the old model Surefire EL2AA. Two modes, no blinkies, and Expen$ive!
But, HEY, whatever you like. There are guys here who will sell you all you want! :bigsmile:
Incan Mags are far too easy to convert to even consider junking them. Even if the result isn’t brighter than an xml/xpg it’s still a fantastic backup light for a $2 upgrade.
Or you can the more difficult route and create a heatsink, mount an xml/xpg and have something that is brighter than many options. Just check out the amazing things other forum members have created. Mags are great quality hosts.
For a total beginner the Roar Of the Pelican (often just referred to as ROP) might be a nice way to get into lithium batteries and brighter lights. Basically just put in one of the higher voltage pelican bulbs in and slap in some lithiums and maybe a spacer if needed. It’s both quick to do to your light, and very easy to reverse if you don’t like it. Theres a few led upgrades for the mag-light, but unless you have access to a machine shop you are probably better off getting something else.
Welcome to the addiction!
Thanks again for all the info, folks- I really appreciate it! I did order one of the TerraLUX replacement LED elements today from Amazon, I’ll try it in both my 3-D and 2-C MagLights and see how they work/fit. If they fit both/work well, I’ll replace them both.
Learning a lot here- have read most of the mod’s page referenced above, will have to go through it again to fully absorb it all that’s there. Reading the specs on the referenced LED elements/bulbs is confusing for me yet, also need to check and see what the diameters of my 2 lights are.
And, yes- I’ve also ordered 3 other LED lights to help fuel my new addiction! :bigsmile:
Wes
You're doooomed! And welcome :)
I started off my modding on Mags, and I still buy one every now and then. A LOT of options, but the most common route I go is buying a heatsink (google "h22a heatsink"), LED of choice (now would be XM-L2 or XP-G2), a NANJG 105C or QLITE driver, then some wire and solder to connect everything up. Then I buy PVC conduit pipe to make a sleeve to fit 3 x C cell NiMh in the 2D mag, which requires a tailcap modification to fit.
Or, just skip serious modding on Mags and jump to the 100's of other awesome hosts that use lithium batteries.
- Jon
The simplest thing to do with the MagLights, if they are now using incandescent bulbs, is to replace the bulbs with leds packaged with drivers to replace incandescent bulbs. But, being an electronics technician, you probably will prefer the driver out where you can see it and maybe modify it. With leds only a bit brighter than the incandescents, I wouldn’t bother with rechargeable batteries as the run time will be very long. But check the batteries once in a while, because you may not be able to tell from the output when they get weak. If you upgrade to much brighter leds, you could use rechargeable batteries, both to save replacing them often and for greater current capacity.
Leds are maybe 5 to 10 times as efficient as incandescent bulbs, but they are sensitive to heat so high power led conversions of incandescent lights may have a shortage of cooling. The aluminum case helps a lot with this, but I am not sure how it is near the bulb. One must read other threads to find out how that goes. There should be a good heat conduction path from the led to the flashlight body. An other disadvantage of starting with an incandescent is that the reflectors tend to be shallower, so too much light might be in the spill and not enough in the throw. Maybe you should change the reflector too.
Some drivers for lights that have about the right voltage in the batteries to drive the led, only regulate the current, the simplest being just a resistor. Better drivers have more constant output, as the battery voltage declines, than simpler ones do. Three D cells is probably a good voltage for this sort of driver. For batteries with higher or lower voltage, there are boost and buck drivers that raise or lower the voltage. These always include some inductive element and an oscillator. Led drivers often have multiple modes because, unlike incandescent bulbs, leds work well over a wide range of current.
Theory: an led (light emitting diode, I don’t capitalize this acronym because I think it has become an ordinary English word like laser) is basically just a semiconductor diode, but using special semiconductors such as gallium nitride, because silicon does not emit light well. The positive and negative charge carriers are pulled by the voltage to traps where they combine, giving off light photons with energy equal to the band gap. Semiconductors with different band gaps are used for different color leds. White leds are usually blue leds coated with a wavelength converting phosphor.
Maglite, for both incan and LED models, use a camming system that places the emitter/bulb on a pedestal that slides up and down on a spring. It is held centrally in the tube by the plastic switch housing, effectively insulating the emitter from any proper heat path. This is why they drive the emitter to only 130 lumens on LED models. Any significant upgrade is going to need to address this absence of heat path, usually through complete replacement of the emitter and reflector.
I’m surprised nobody mentioned Malkoff yet. Malkoff may not be the cheapest way to go. But if you want to spruce up a Maglite as easily as you can and still get good results, Malkoff is THE way to go. For your 2C, they have an XP-G2 drop-in that will improve output from the original 20 (or so) lumens to 270 lumens. And for the 3D, they have either a 300 lumen XP-G2 drop-in or a 700 lumen XM-L2 drop-in. Like I said before, these drop-ins are not extremely cheap (compared to other options). But there is something to be said about a Mag with decent output. Also, any of these drop-ins will also deal with the aforementioned heatsinking problem by bringing the emitter in thermal contact with the body of the light.
As for batteries, I would DEFINITELY suggest Tenergy C and D cells over alkalines. Although open circuit voltage is lower than a fresh alkaline battery, the voltage of an alkaline battery drops with usage. So it doesn’t take much usage for a NiMH battery to actually have a higher voltage. Also, because alkaline batteries have high internal resistance, voltage drops alot under a load. NiMH batteries generally have higher voltage under a heavy load than alkaline batteries. This is why NiMH batteries are recommended by Malkoff for their XM-L2 drop-in.
Finally, NiMH batteries don’t leak like alkaline batteries. Many folks out there have lost Maglites (and a myriad of other devices) because the alkaline batteries they used leaked and destroyed them. Maglites seem to be especially bad, since alkaline batteries tend to swell and seize themselves into the light. Removal of such batteries is difficult to impossible. But these problems can be avoided by using NiMH batteries.
StorminMatt-
Well, you got me in more trouble! Went to the Malkoff website… some cool stuff- except most of the stuff is out of stock- and unavailable! However… he did have one light in stock- a special run of Neutral Wildcats. The LED’s are 4000K Cree XP-G2’s… and apparently he only had one of them, because when I bought it- it too went out of stock! So I think with rechargeables for my MagLights + an LED upgrade, 3 other flashlights- and now this light, I think I’ve spent enough on myself for Christmas!!
You guys are right….
…addiction….
Addiction?…Naaaaah! I can quit any time I want…really I can! 8)